Dodgy clock (and Replacing it with a trip computer)

How easy is it to remove the clock ? My clock only works sometimes, then the power cuts out ...
I also found my left front Spotty wasn't on so I thought it was the globe, but I had the spotty on one day when the second one just turned on all of a sudden. Seems like some dogey wiring. Oh and then the other day my left front speakers weren't working for a while then they too turned back on. I think I have mice playing with my cabling ... Where the heck do i start ?

 

Um, first off.. do you know how to use a multi-meter? If not your gona have a real hard time trying to diagnose these issues and would be better off taking the car to an autoelec.

If you do know what to do with a multi-meter, then I'd suggest trying to trace your lights back to their switches and measure when and if your continuity drops when and if you fiddle with other systems, like headlights etc.

The lights are a really shitty job man but the speakers are dead easy, just lay new (better) cabling and run them into your head unit/amp. Problem solved. As for the clock, you'll need to re solder some dry joints on the PCB of the clock itself. Its apparently a common problem and there is a great little write up on Clubvr4 that shows you exactly what to do.

Looks like you have a busy weekend lined up!

 

'Dry' solder joints are a very common problem in electronics subjected to movement and vibration. Basically the solder didn't take properly to both the surfaces it was meant to join together, and over time the weaker join has broken apart. The component (clock, headlamp etc) comes on while the two surfaces touch (being metal and conductive) but when there's a knock or vibration the joint separates, cutting power to the component.

Its easily fixable - just touch a soldering iron to the affected solder join, melt the solder and ensure its bonded to BOTH surfaces. Alternatively, if you want to be absolutely certain about it, use a solder sucker to remove the existing solder, rub down with sandpaper or other abrasive surface, heat both surfaces for a second or two with a soldering iron and join with quality silver solder (more expensive but bonds better and has higher conductivity).

The HARD part is finding the problem join in the first place! Trial and error... and a bucketload of time...

Paul that headlamp problem sounds like a dodgey relay to me... I had similar problems in my Magna for a couple of days until it finally died - had to bridge the connectors with some wire just to get home However its questionable a relay is a cause of your problem as you said you're only losing ONE lamp, not both - normally the relay would feed to both equally, although its POSSIBLE there are dedicated relays or two channels within the one relay.

The good thing is if its NOT the relay, but one of your spots is working fine, then the problem can only be between the relay and the problem light, which is only about two metres of cable and a couple of connections

 

pop out the clock,

push up HARD! on the front shade cover, (it will almost break)
do not lever it up,

then unplug from the car

open up the clock, (all clips no screws)
get the PCB board out,
resolder the power plug on the circuit board (4 pins)

as said above its dry solder joints.

common issue on the 8G legnum/galants

 

Sweet I'll try pop it out later tonite ... I was going to replace it with a turbotimer that displays the time, but If its a simple re-solder I'll do that.
Thanks for ur help guys ... I'll have to have a hunt for the spotlight wires and follow them with the multi meter (yep no probs with the mm).

 

My clock is also doggy, as gly said it is a common problem, I plan on putting a Boost controller that displays boost there, i already have a clock on my head unit to tell the time with

 

It is a very common problem, it will either be the dry solder joints or a loose connection, I've fixed 3 of mine by bending the pins back into shape.

 

Oddly enough, I have the same issue... sometimes the clock will work (but display the wrong time) and in other cases will display only segments of characters or no clock at all.

doesn't really worry me, although it gets a little old when everyone gets in and says "hey, do you know your clock isn't right?"

 

Who has the Dodgy Clocks? Want them Fixed

Hey Guys,

Time to through in some of my abilities here. Dry solder joints is the main problem with the clocks, but in some cases (like mine) the electrolytic caps had also dried out and this was causing it to not keep proper time.

For those of you not up to the task of repairing these, then if you are prepaired to pay the postage to and from Melbourne, then it will cost you about $5 - $7 for the correct capacitors and I'll do the repairs for you. For the Melbourneites, catch me at a wash meet, and i'll return it next one.

Regards

Gavin

 

Well aren't you a helpful chap, Gav? Might have to pull mine apart when I get it and check the state of the caps

 

Count another dodgey clock on mine too!! LOL

 

Ok so I tugged at the clock and it is stuck down hard ... I don't want to break anything ... is there a trick to it coming off ?

 

Removing the Clock

Hey Guys,

The thing to remember when removing the clock is that the clock assembly is screwed to the top dash cover. There are 2 locking clips hgolding the dash cover down, and 2 locking clips on the underneath of the clock holding it down also.
So basically it is a pig to pull out.

I bent a piece of spring steel into an L shape, and used it to lever up under the windscreen side of the dash plate also. This helped a bit.

Just remember to use increasing amounts of pressure, not sharp pulling movements. The wiring to the clock is not that long, and if you pull it up too quickly you may pull the wiring out.

Regards

Gavin

 

You just need to pull really really hard, thats all

 

yep just push REALLY! hard up on the shade/lip of the clock cover,

no problems with leaking caps in these at all...
just the dry solder joints on the main powerplug.

nothing that a cheap soldier iron cant fix,
i have a few reconditioned ones that i sell on trademe with the exchange of there old clock,

 

I don't think Gav was talking about leaking caps, Carsten, but dry(ing) electrolytic caps. Unless you use conductive polymer solid-state aluminum capacitors (as used in a lot of high-end computing gear these days) the material in electrolytic caps can (usually WILL) deteriorate over time, leading to inconsistent output. For components that require consistent output (pretty much anywhere a capacitor has been used in the first place) this will lead to inaccurate operation of the device, be it voltage regulation, time keeping, filtering or whatever. The capacitor may indeed still appear to be working - its just not as accurate as it was when it was new.

There are some brands that are more prone to this than others - if you're going to go to the effort of replacing capacitors in a component, you should go to the slight extra effort of looking up the brand. For a good rule of thumb, stick with caps made in Japan. Of if you think its worth the additional cost, only use solid state capacitors.

 

Thank you people... that was the sort of info I didn't want to pay $30 for... gunna rip out the clock this weekend!

 

Now i have just tryed for the third time to pull the clock off the dash, my thumbs are so sore and the clock hasn't budged ... I would really like to see someone do this ? U seriously just pull it off ?
Either mine has been stuck down or u guys have super human strength.

 

Maybe someone glued your's at some stage, Paul?