[EOI] Rear Strut Brace.. New for >$150

[matchtheclown]

Yep it's about time I got this ball rolling.

Basically it's a Cusco clone.

In the original thread http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3412&highlight=strut+brace I discussed using tie rod ends as I was recommended this by a suspension guru.
This is still possible, but I wanted some feedback on it. It would increase the price by $15-30 and let's face it we don't really know if it's going to work better than the Cusco one.

Here is just a test cut I did on our CNC plasma to show I am making progress. I have already got some laser prices as laser produces much cleaner results (and it saves me screwing around with the plasma to get the right settings).

The centre brace will be a rectangle SHS similar in size to the Cusco but in mild steel.

The finish will be gold elctroplating on the whole lot, for a bit of bling. If you keen I could send you one raw so you can finish it how you like.


As far as price goes: I don't have all the qutoes yet and it depends a bit on volume. But Easilly under $150 for now just so you can consider it.

So who is in / keen?

This isn't a commit to buy thread, if you want but not imeddiately I will still probably build for you and just put it on a shelf and in the end i'll probably just flog any extras on ebay.

Just need an idea of interest so I can figure out how many to make.


INTEREST for 6 SO FAR.


Cheers!

 

[smohekey]

I'd be keen.

 

[Guest]

im not keen on the tie rod ends, perfer a solid bar that bolts in place

im keen on a raw item (if its cheaper than a plated item)

also what do you estimate the finished weight of the complete item to be??
and shipping cost to NZ?

and last but not least,

would you sell the ends without the bar? as it may be easier for me to sort a bar locally to fit (and keep shipping cost down)

 

[matchtheclown]

Cool on all of the above Gly. I'm not attached to rod ends.

It would be loads cheaper due to size for you to get a bar done locally. It would be cheap to get fab'd.

Just the brackets would be under 600 grams which I imagine I could send to NZ for $25 or below going off what Silicon Angel quoted to send the ATE Blue fluid.

 

[Guest]

cool.

ill take a set of raw ends in that case
let me know when you have a final cost and when there ready

 

[matchtheclown]

Well i'll leave it for a week or so and see if I get any more interest.

Cost will be a little higher if I don't obviously.. Dunno if it's worth building 10, recon they would go on ebay?

 

[Guest]

im sure you could sell a few on club vr4

 

[matchtheclown]

Especially if I was a member... :|

I thought I was but am not, anyhow rego'd now I'll make a thread see if I get some more interest.

 

[Guest]

i could be interested, even tho all mod's have come to a stop as im making room for the race car..
but at that price its worth it..

 

[leebutts]

I'm keen, as long as it's easily removable for when I actually want to use my car as a wagon

 

[matchtheclown]

Even the cusco one is easily removable. You need a 14mm spanner, a 8mm allen key (I think) and 5 minutes..


I've put it up on club vr-4 as well. We shall see what interest shows up once the UK has a look.

 

[2000VR-4]

I would be interested in a raw one, but I would want it adjustable.

 

[matchtheclown]

Explain adjustable... from what I understand adjustable would mean being able to put pre-tension on it, ie thread rod at each end of the bar?

The cusco ones have a slotted hole which could accomdate pre-tension if you where to speard the pillars then tighten it.

Anyhow let me know jason.

 

[ygoslo]

My hand is up.

Can't really see the need for an adjustable one unless you have every link in your suspension replaced with aftermarket bits and use your car on the track a bunch... Front one isn't adjustable and does a good job.

 

[matchtheclown]

Someone explain adjustable if it's just having a threaded part at each end of the bar that's easy done and wont need any mods to the brace ends.

It could be done as a variation and just cost a little extra.

 

[2000VR-4]

I think you need the adjustment, yes a threaded rod at each end. If you have a fixed bar, I dont see the need? Surely if it is a fixed length then can't the towers just "to and fro" in unison?
If you screw in some tention the then towers work against each other and therefore stay upright?
Please tell me if I am wrong, I am basing this on what seems logical to me and nothing else.

 

[2000VR-4]

Sorry I have worded that wrong, but it is hard to type.
If you load up tension on a strut brace and push the tops of the strut to the outer limits of the tower, then it stands to reason that the oposite strut can not push it out further?
If you have a stock setting with a fixed brace then the tower with the load will use the outer tower to take up the load.
Does that make sense?
I do a really good demo with my hands, lol

 

[matchtheclown]

Yeah I know what you mean Jason, I was recommended making the bar with tie-rod ends originally which are on the end of threaded rod so you could preload them.

I think you will find that without the fixed bar the pillars will flex / move throug hthe chassis more making the car feel less precise... so the fixed ones are helpful for chassis rigidity / bracing.

 

[matchtheclown]

Profiles ordered.
Electroplating is elcheapo I've found out so I'm going to do them all in a batch which will mean none raw. Don't worry they are going to be cheaper than I expected anyhow it looks like.

 

[Guest]

mint! whats the e.t.a???