- Thread starter
- #21
I should have added one for pressure! There is a good 2000 words I could write on system pressure
P.S. I stole the graphs from 'the Google'
Overheating on load - Larger aftermarket alloy radiator?
- Thread starter uzz320
- Start date
I should have added one for pressure! There is a good 2000 words I could write on system pressure
P.S. I stole the graphs from 'the Google'
Cheers Martin.
Explanation was awesome and i just had an uh huh moment! I was running 50-50 ratio of coolant at the track and i actually thought it aided the cooling process.
Thank you for clarifying. I think i will reduce to a 10% ratio now and chnage my thermostat just in case!
Rob
Explanation was awesome and i just had an uh huh moment! I was running 50-50 ratio of coolant at the track and i actually thought it aided the cooling process.
Thank you for clarifying. I think i will reduce to a 10% ratio now and chnage my thermostat just in case!
Rob
- Thread starter
- #23
No worries Rob
A fair few cars run 30/70 from the factory so I think I will be running that for the street. For the track, if you're already at 50/50 - open the drain at the bottom of the radiator, you should get about 4L out. If you refill with straight distilled/demineralised water you will be around 25/75, do it again after a good drive and you will be at about 12.5%. To refill afterwards, if you drain and fill with 50/50 you will be at 70/30; if you fill with 85/15 you will be at about 50/50.- Thread starter
- #24
I have decided that when I change my radiator, I will also be changing my coolant to something different. I am currently running Toyota Long Life (Red) in about 50/50 ratio with a 0.9Bar radiator cap. Specific heat is currently about .85 but may be less as I went a bit overboard on the coolant mix when I first got the car. Boiling Point would be roughly 130 degrees C.
I will be using demineralised water with Redline water wetter added. This will give a specific heat of very close to 1, and with a 1.3Bar radiator cap a boiling temp of roughly 127 degrees C. The water wetter is there to provide lubrication to the water pump and for its anti-corrosion properties - it is essentially a coolant additive package without the ethelyne glycol, and with no benefits for boiling or freezing temp. It is also supposed to lower the surface tension of the water, allowing smaller vapour bubbles to form on hotter surfaces within the engine which allows for greater heat transfer than the larger bubbles that would normally form. I don't hugely care whether this part of it works as advertised, I am more after the anti-corrosion and pump lubrication. From what I have seen in the few tests that actually use a useful methodology, it does actually work - lowering head temperatures, but often slightly increasing the coolant temp as there is more energy being transferred. Almost all testing that I have seen of this product has been done by someone that is only just smart enough to produce coherent sentences, and it mostly misses the point.
I don't have any real concerns about the 0 degrees C freezing point as it will never be cold enough for long enough to bring the system down to that temperature.
This should give me a fair boost in cooling on its own, and together with the new radiator should be more than sufficient to solve my issues.
I will be using demineralised water with Redline water wetter added. This will give a specific heat of very close to 1, and with a 1.3Bar radiator cap a boiling temp of roughly 127 degrees C. The water wetter is there to provide lubrication to the water pump and for its anti-corrosion properties - it is essentially a coolant additive package without the ethelyne glycol, and with no benefits for boiling or freezing temp. It is also supposed to lower the surface tension of the water, allowing smaller vapour bubbles to form on hotter surfaces within the engine which allows for greater heat transfer than the larger bubbles that would normally form. I don't hugely care whether this part of it works as advertised, I am more after the anti-corrosion and pump lubrication. From what I have seen in the few tests that actually use a useful methodology, it does actually work - lowering head temperatures, but often slightly increasing the coolant temp as there is more energy being transferred. Almost all testing that I have seen of this product has been done by someone that is only just smart enough to produce coherent sentences, and it mostly misses the point.
I don't have any real concerns about the 0 degrees C freezing point as it will never be cold enough for long enough to bring the system down to that temperature.
This should give me a fair boost in cooling on its own, and together with the new radiator should be more than sufficient to solve my issues.
