Trackday overheating

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Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Poland
First Name
Tomasz
Drive
Legnum 6A13TT, Galant 6A13
Summers can get hot in Poland with temperatures in the 30-35C range. Just attended a trackday, with temps in that range, full sun, and the car was overheating like a ... (fill in the blanks). Blew the radiator cap (it literally failed) on the 7th lap and radiator boiled itself dry. Managed to catch it in time (hopefully, time will tell), refilled system, fitted a new 1.1 cap but still could only manage 2-3 laps before needing cooldown time.

My mods are:
- Bigger FMIC
- Bigger injectors (rich tune)
- 255lph fuel pump
- 3-port boost control (0.9 bar boost)

Overheating on trackdays would be a problem in Australia wouldn't it? How do you guys deal with that?
 

Dice

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Gold Coast QLD
First Name
DiceR
Drive
Galant VR-4 2xT25bb
Nissan Cube
You need an oil cooler. If still overheating upgrade radiator too.
 

Grid

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Poland
First Name
Tomasz
Drive
Legnum 6A13TT, Galant 6A13
To summarize the advice I am getting, in order of "urgency":
- Don't rev so much ;-)
- Manual fan override
- Engine oil cooler
- Additional transmission cooler
- Alloy radiator (not sure if bigger, there's hardly any room to go bigger)
 

pretzil

2 AYC Bars
Location
Qld
First Name
Rick
Drive
Legnum VR4
My car is running on ethanol and tuned to around 200kW, ever since tuning I have encountered 'overheating issues' at half hour laps sessions.
(The other strong possibility is that my head studs have stretched slightly and under prolonged load, exhaust pushes my coolant out...)
I still get the problems and it is an ongoing battle... but, as someone who has been thinking and researching about this for quite some time, here are some thoughts:

I am not convinced of the "Don't rev so much" I have encountered that sometimes higher revs help keep the temp gauge down, since more coolant is pumped I guess :p

Fit a manual fan override, a handy trick is that if you cut the thin blue wire going into the 'hedgehog' on the fan shroud you can get full force fan all the time. I have mine running thru a relay so I can crank them on when I want to.

Engine oil coolers are a very good idea, I haven't fitted one because I am worried about creating more places for oil leaks, but if track days are something you plan on doing a lot of, they are a good idea.

If you have an automatic transmission then an additional trans cooler is a good idea. I have bypassed the radiator one altogether and run a thermostat, I have been meaning to add a PC fan to the trans cooler.
https://www.ozvr4.com/threads/installing-auto-transmission-cooler.3093/
https://www.ozvr4.com/threads/ditch...oing-only-aftermarket.9480/page-2#post-328597

Alloy radiators are bigger, but in terms of overall thickness, not by much, since plastic top radiators are thicker at the top and bottom than the actual core, while on alloy ones it is more flush.
Also, if going for a bigger radiator, upgrade to a bigger overflow bottle, I am about to do that myself based on a theory that more coolant means it needs more expansion space (my bottle overflows on light track days and harder mountain drives)

An additional idea - Fit an underbody tray if you haven't got one already.
From what I have read, an underbody tray can help promote smooth airflow thru the radiator, without it, turbulance from underneath can stifle flow.
 

NuffNuff

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Victoria
First Name
Damian
Drive
GTI, GTI, FL Manual Legnum VR4
Like I said on fb run the heater full blast, I got another 30 laps in without changing my driving style much
 

Grid

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Poland
First Name
Tomasz
Drive
Legnum 6A13TT, Galant 6A13
Like I said on fb run the heater full blast, I got another 30 laps in without changing my driving style much
That can only work if it's not already so hot outside. I was sweating like a pig in my helmet as it was without AC on. You're not allowed to drive with windows down on the track.
 

NuffNuff

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Victoria
First Name
Damian
Drive
GTI, GTI, FL Manual Legnum VR4
That can only work if it's not already so hot outside. I was sweating like a pig in my helmet as it was without AC on. You're not allowed to drive with windows down on the track.

Oh that's a shame we were lol
 

jungle

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
QLD
First Name
Simon
Drive
1 PFL & 1 FL Legnum
Summers can get hot in Poland with temperatures in the 30-35C range. Just attended a trackday, with temps in that range, full sun, and the car was overheating like a ... (fill in the blanks). Blew the radiator cap (it literally failed) on the 7th lap and radiator boiled itself dry. Managed to catch it in time (hopefully, time will tell), refilled system, fitted a new 1.1 cap but still could only manage 2-3 laps before needing cooldown time.

My mods are:
- Bigger FMIC
- Bigger injectors (rich tune)
- 255lph fuel pump
- 3-port boost control (0.9 bar boost)

Overheating on trackdays would be a problem in Australia wouldn't it? How do you guys deal with that?

If you're serious about tracking the car, then get a dual pass radiator made. Here is a pic of mine from my Nissan 180.
It's tiny 58x35cm and 55mm thick. You can see the left tank where it's blocked off to force the water across to the right where it drops down for its second pass at cooling.
This little gem kept my 500hp RB25 Rock solid at 90Celcius on the track forever. Actually it was so effective that on the cool down lap by the second corner at QR in Queensland it was back to the thermostat opening temp of 78C !

An iPhone 5 for scale
So don't fuck around if you're going to track it, get something made to look after the engine properly.

image.jpeg
 

Grid

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Poland
First Name
Tomasz
Drive
Legnum 6A13TT, Galant 6A13
If you're serious about tracking the car, then get a dual pass radiator made. Here is a pic of mine from my Nissan 180.
It's tiny 58x35cm and 55mm thick. You can see the left tank where it's blocked off to force the water across to the right where it drops down for its second pass at cooling.
This little gem kept my 500hp RB25 Rock solid at 90Celcius on the track forever. Actually it was so effective that on the cool down lap by the second corner at QR in Queensland it was back to the thermostat opening temp of 78C !

An iPhone 5 for scale
So don't fuck around if you're going to track it, get something made to look after the engine properly.

Very interesting! I need to check with local suppliers if I could get one made.
 

pretzil

2 AYC Bars
Location
Qld
First Name
Rick
Drive
Legnum VR4
If you're serious about tracking the car, then get a dual pass radiator made. Here is a pic of mine from my Nissan 180.
It's tiny 58x35cm and 55mm thick. You can see the left tank where it's blocked off to force the water across to the right where it drops down for its second pass at cooling.

Wow, not only does the radiator do dual pass, but the tubes run longways across the radiator, no wonder the temps get so low, that's awesome.
About how much did a custom radiator set you back btw? Although I suppose it was nothing in the grand scheme of a proper track car build.
 

Grid

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Poland
First Name
Tomasz
Drive
Legnum 6A13TT, Galant 6A13
Something like this would work, wouldn't it

radiator_dualflow_proposal.JPG
 

pretzil

2 AYC Bars
Location
Qld
First Name
Rick
Drive
Legnum VR4
And how do you make it do that? You can only control flow at the top and bottom tanks, those tubes you see running vertical can only run in straight lines.
 

Grid

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Poland
First Name
Tomasz
Drive
Legnum 6A13TT, Galant 6A13
And how do you make it do that? You can only control flow at the top and bottom tanks, those tubes you see running vertical can only run in straight lines.

Just trying to understand what a radiator shop would need to come up with
 

pretzil

2 AYC Bars
Location
Qld
First Name
Rick
Drive
Legnum VR4
Honestly, I've been trying to figure this out too, and all I can see is that you will be pushing shit uphill with the standard inlet and outlet locations.
 

jungle

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
QLD
First Name
Simon
Drive
1 PFL & 1 FL Legnum
Something like this would work, wouldn't it

I would change the inlet and outlet position to get maximum benefit. Which, yes means changing the water hose shapes.
As you see in my pic, mine is a cross flow ie horizontal. Water is like air, it will take the easiest path. In a normal radiator like your picture, the majority of the water flows straight from the top to bottom. You'll find that the edges aren't very efficient.
Mine is over 10 years old. Richard from ARE Aluminium Radiators Engineering made it for me, if you have to ask how much then you can't afford it.
 

jungle

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
QLD
First Name
Simon
Drive
1 PFL & 1 FL Legnum
And fit the biggest oil cooler you can. And don't put it front of the bloody radiator!
 
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