possible choke problem?

[Hotwire]

Sounds like they have used this:
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=6
and I quote:

Recommended for use where DEXRON, DEXRON II, III and VI, Toyota T-IV and WS, MERCON®, MERCON® SP and LV, Allison TES 295 and 389, Nissan Matic-D, Matic-J and Matic-K, Honda Z-1 (except CVT), Mercedes NAG-1, Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II and SP-III and many others are required

I fail to see how one fluid can do the job of Dexron II and III as well as Diamond Queen SPII & III as they are completely different fluids!!!

I would get it changed for genuine Mitsubishi SP III ATF ASAP Hayley.

You will only need the fluid changed, not a "system flush" or new filter, so you'll need ~10L of SPIII ATF and about 1 hour of labour. Should cost you around $130, please get it changed before your trans shits itself from incorrect fluid.

 

[Mac Dog]

Sounds like a super fluid. You can also use it as engine oil, brake fluid, even fuel, car washing detergent, and window wiper fluid!




BUT WAIT.. there's more!

Hayley, i'd get your auto trans fluid changed, and maybe even change mechanic! If they dont know how to research and find the correct fluid for your car, i'd rather not have lazy and il-informed mechanics working on my car!

I know you've been recommended to them, but thats just my opinion.

 

[Hotwire]

As you are North, maybe go see Les Haldine (find his details in the SA Mechanics thread) and get him to change the fluid. He actually knows what he's on about when it comes to mitsubishi's. Sure he's not an "Auto Expert" but I have not doubt he'd know more than these clowns.

 

[bradc]

Well at least it isn't brown like the old fluid

I'd treat the job you've just had done as a flush, and go out and get some Amsoil ATF or Mitsi SPIII fairly soon.

 

[Mac Dog]

I couldn't recommend Les more than enough! He has a work shop at Gawler (or is based there) and a workshop in Pooraka.

 

[Mortz]

I took mine to the local dealership with strict guidelines on a printed page on fluids because I have discovered if it's got a bit more work then a Commo most mechanics couldn't give a stuff.
Good mechanics that care are few and far between so this time print him out the mech the info on the fluids and that way he can't stuff up (unless he's a real idiot).By the way, if you mention you are a member of a car club he might think twice about ripping you off.

 

[pu-11-me]

By the way, if you mention you are a member of a car club he might think twice about ripping you off.

As silly as that sounds, do it

Because 200 users read this post and won't go there for service now lol....

 

[Mortz]

If he cares about his business' reputation he'd take notice. One satisfied customer may tell one person but a pissed off customer wil tell everyone. If I get a dodgy mechanic I make sure people know not to got there.

 

[Guest]

If he cares about his business' reputation he'd take notice. One satisfied customer may tell one person but a pissed off customer wil tell everyone. If I get a dodgy mechanic I make sure people know not to got there.

lol speaking of bad mechs don't ever ever go to ales one stop auto shop in vergina took my liberty there once cause a friend recommended him.......
my car was there for 5 months and wasn't even fixed right when i got it back
on top of that he disided to paint his race car bright orange in his work shop without covering my car so it was covered in lovely orange over spray :wanker:

anyway back on topic i know your gonna tell me to use the search but since im lazy can anyone tell me where to get this amsoil stuff from since every mitsy place i rang had never herd of it? pppllleeeaaasssseeee

 

[Sydo]

Just use Mitsubishi SPIII. $30odd bucks per 5 ltrs.
Part # MR922838.

Any real Mitsubishi dealer should stock it.

 

[mookers]

anyway back on topic i know your gonna tell me to use the search but since im lazy can anyone tell me where to get this amsoil stuff from since every mitsy place i rang had never herd of it? pppllleeeaaasssseeee

http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2027



and yes, search is your friend

 

[Guest]

lol knew search would come up... what can i say i suck at forums.
if all it needs now is just a drain and fill i think i should be able to do that my self...... or maybe i should resist my natural erges to be cheap and take it to some one lol

 

[Sydo]

if all it needs now is just a drain and fill i think i should be able to do that my self...... or maybe i should resist my natural erges to be cheap and take it to some one lol

Unfortunately it's not as simple as just draining the old out, and pouring the new in. You need to interrupt the flow of fluid coming out of the factory cooler before it goes back into the box, while at the same time pouring in the new stuff - while the car is running!

To be honest, what they have put in could be totally fine (was it Valvoline MaxLife ATF Dexron III Mercon??) - the problem is that noone else here has ever tried it, and the consequences of getting the wrong fluid.. bad.

 

[Guest]

Unfortunately it's not as simple as just draining the old out, and pouring the new in. You need to interrupt the flow of fluid coming out of the factory cooler before it goes back into the box, while at the same time pouring in the new stuff - while the car is running!

To be honest, what they have put in could be totally fine (was it Valvoline MaxLife ATF Dexron III Mercon??) - the problem is that noone else here has ever tried it, and the consequences of getting the wrong fluid.. bad.

yeah its that mercon maxlife stuff, seems to be going quite well in it so far, the shuddering has stopped completely now and it grabs the gears nicely.
today when it was quite hot and yesterday.... no shuddering
i will replace it with amsoil, but i think for now it will be ok. il just wait till after xmas when im no longer broke

 

[SiliconAngel]

the shuddering has stopped completely now and it grabs the gears nicely.

Hopefully its not grabbing TOO well. If you're not using a high-friction modified lube you will be doing damage to your gearbox.

Lubricants are meant to stop metal components from coming into contact with each other - when you think of the teeth from two cogs interconnecting, in actual fact what SHOULD be happening is the teeth from one are protected by a thin layer of lubricant from the teeth of the other. If the lubricant isn't the correct type you either have too much slip, and the gears slip instead of meshing, or you have metal-to-metal contact. While a truly useless lube will mean very fast wear, possibly leading to catastrophic failure, a lube that is doing 99% of the job is still causing wear, which will kill your gearbox eventually. You can't undo the damage that's done today no matter how many times you change your lube tomorrow - you're trading a $100 job today for a $4000 gearbox replacement down the track...

As I've said countless times before, the vast majority of mechanics are high-school dropouts who wouldn't know what the word research meant, let alone actually do any of it. Mechanical engineers, chemical engineers and physicists design gears and lubricants in BILLION DOLLAR programs. Mechanics have their own opinions and experiences to go on. 98% of them won't do you or your car justice.

Use the correct lubricant for the job every time, without exception, and your car will last a very long time. Use whatever some cock in a garage recommends and you may be lucky, but you probably won't - hell, if your gearbox chews itself to pieces, he's probably thinking you'll take it back to him to rebuild anyway *shrugs*