Rough on WOT

[Richard__]

Hey everyone,

As I'm starting to actually drive this car I'm experiencing some weird issues... I don't think either of these are related to each other though.

#1. I cannot go wide open throttle. If I do, the car starts to breakup, maybe fuel cut? I'm still learning what modifications were done as it was not documented. I have no boost controller that I'm aware of, and the boost gauge is reading roughly 14psi when pushed.

#2. When driving normally, I sometimes get the TCL and an engine light on my dash. If I turn off the car and restart they disappear. This comes up almost everytime I go for a drive. I read that it may be a battery issue? But wouldn't that show the battery light?

Thanks in advance for the feedback. Picture to lighten the mood

 

[naughtika]

hey mate, i believe your issues are the following

1. Spark Plugs - if you are getting hesitation while on WOT, and not fully hit the brick wall kind of feeling. replace the spark plugs with Denso VK22 (they last longer the NGK BKR7EIX) worse case, your ignition coils are on the way out. Normally saw these happen in Australia though due to harsh ambient temp than Japan (your case Canada)

2. look for the white canister on the firewall in your engine bay. I bet you have hairline crack/s on this canister. Knowing it's PFL Auto. It will have this


goodluck

 

[jungle]

In addition to what Christian has said, 6-7 psi is stock so you most likely have a bleed valve for an unnoticed boost controller. The car actually comes with an ECU controlled boost controller from factory, however for it to work the ECU needs to be re-flashed. So those are some reasons you are running 14psi.

What RPM does it get hesitation?

 

[Gt_Galant]

Also on the second problem I remember reading that their was a plug or something like that under dash that people were experiencing with TCL engine light coming on.

I remember there was a few members saying they had that problem and once plugged in properly it went away.

Pretty sure im not imaging it haha.

Also for the first problem like Christian said spark plugs or even coil packs maybe gone on one/couple or few.

 

[Richard__]

In addition to what Christian has said, 6-7 psi is stock so you most likely have a bleed valve for an unnoticed boost controller. The car actually comes with an ECU controlled boost controller from factory, however for it to work the ECU needs to be re-flashed. So those are some reasons you are running 14psi.

What RPM does it get hesitation?

It really starts to hesitate from 6k and above, so I only use about 3/4 throttle to build boost. I know this car already has NGK plugs, but maybe a few have went bad. I'm in no rush to spend the money right now as it barely gets driven, but I will keep you all posted. I really need to figure out what was done by the previous owner...

 

[Richard__]

So my negative battery connector literally fell apart. I noticed it was moving around on the terminal the other day but couldn't get the bolt any tighter as it had expanded too much. When Trying to tighten it, the connector snapped. I'll have to replace them this week. Could this be why I'm getting some hesitation?

 

[Richard__]

So my negative battery connector literally fell apart. I noticed it was moving around on the terminal the other day but couldn't get the bolt any tighter as it had expanded too much. When Trying to tighten it, the connector snapped. I'll have to replace them this week. Could this be why I'm getting some hesitation?

To Answer my own question, I changed my terminal connectors nd cleaned everything up. Now that there is a much more solid connection with the battery the car drives WAY better. There is still a little hesitation at peak boost but much more drivable now. Spark plugs and maybe new coil packs will be the next things to go.
So far I haven't seen the TCL and Engine light come back, so maybe this was a connection issue as well.