Self revving while rolling

[Tony_T]

I can't see how, none of those will have any connection with the ECU. There will be some power connection or main fuse in common with all those things, maybe even the contacts on the ignition key switch (I had one fail but was able to fix it). Fortunately the ECUs in these cars were made later than when the leaky capacitors were being used anyway.
Edit: sorry I don't have a wiring diagram to allow me to make any clearer suggestions.

 

[Baba Galant]

Yeah I'm stumped. Checked the fusible link, multimeter check across each fuse. I've given up for today, last week it was the IFS, bypassed it with a fusible link and ran a wire to get the tacho going. It's a real pain at the moment.
The only light on the dash is the door open indicator, dead dash but cranks without firing.

 

[Tony_T]

Did you check the key switch as I suggested? It plugs into the loom so the connector is an easy place to put in a meter probe. In the ON position all but one of the pins should measure the battery voltage around 12 volts. That one that doesn't is the start one of course. Reason for asking is that the things you listed that aren't working I think are all controlled by the key. The contact assembly is held in by just two screws so it's very easy to remove after you unplug the connector. I may be totally wrong of course, but it's something easy to check. If it is the problem it does come apart reasonably easily although it is so long ago I can't remember how, otherwise a contact assembly from any other 8G vehicle is probably the same and there should be heaps of them at wreckers.

Sorry I do babble, sometimes I may be helpful, I hope?

 

[BCX]

Is climate control working? if so, then your problem is just isolated to IG1 (White/Black wire from back of keyswitch)
Climate control amongst other things are powered off IG2 which is only powered when key is at "on" position (ie not during start)

IG1 is powered during START and ON - and is responsible for powering a lot of systems.

Fuse 13 (10A) has a lot to do with the systems that aren't getting power too.

Will dig up a diagram of the power distribution from the key switch soon.

 

[Baba Galant]

Thanks guys, gave it a go before heading out this morning and had a handful of white plastic parts fall out, they seem to control the inhibitor switch to the auto.
The upper clamp has those security dome heads and it was cooking in the car. They're a pain to knock loose.
The climate control works, wipers, interior lights, stereo and mirrors.
The key barrel is sloppy, so I expect it's gone dodgy. If it cools down I'll check the plug etc with a meter.

 

[Baba Galant]

Managed to pull the main ignition switch out, barrel and key came out nice and easy.
Plug and pins look fine. Will try testing the switch but so far with the different positions I only get continuity at IG2 and the opposite pins.
I'll try and nut it out but thought other pins would connect once turned.

 

[Baba Galant]

Quick pull apart, just a little dirty dielectric grease, wiped both plates, checked the four lower springs, played catch with 1 off the bb's that popped out.
All the contact plates looked flat and not dipping or bent. Mostly consistent with 140k odometer.

No change when fitted so it's possible that I'm in search of another gremlin!
The screenshot is from clubvr4 showing the engine control relay, mine looks like this but it's a 2 pin 47 ohm resistor with a diode.
If I read across the terminal I get Mega ohms. The ceramic resistor is fine in its own,.no idea what it does.

 

[Tony_T]

You didn't need to remove the barrel and key assembly, the contact bit comes out separately as you've now discovered. Some of the contacts in your pic look to be in a poor state (especially one) and as they need to meet with the raised lands on the disc there's not much room for wear before contact is lost. I'm still thinking this is most likely where your problem is and I agree your measurements seem wrong. Can you use a wire to jump between the power source and the IG1 connections at the plug / socket to see if that restores power to the dead circuits?
If @BCX finds that diagram it will tell us more.
Any wreckers near you so you could pull a contact assembly to try?

 

[BCX]

Will try and scan it in... But heres something to go by

 

[BCX]

If you needed one from a wrecker, most Mitsubishi's use the same switch. I'd check out a Magna/Verada or Pajero.

 

[Baba Galant]

Think the Tridon is the same, had a quick look and it looks identical all round.
Thanks Tony!

 

[Baba Galant]

Ok, there's only 1 wire with 12 volts on it being the source wire.
Bridging does nothing, no dash life whatsoever.
The immobilizer seems fine, opens and closes the doors, lights flash etc.

Spent the morning double checking every fuse and relay with no change, all good.
Did discover the old mongoose alarm/imobilzer system covered in what looks to be 100m of black insulation tape. Sitting next to that a blitz turbo timer with all the major ignition wires going in and out. It's a rat's nest under there so I'll yank it all free and pull it down to try bypass surgery.
Hopefully something is cooked there that would explain only 1 wire having power on the ignition connection.
Hot and sticky out, bring on the cool change!

 

[Tony_T]

Ah yes that does put a slightly different slant on it; some people's wiring is rubbish so something could easily have fallen off or come apart.

Isn't it raining? My father used to have to travel to Melbourne for business fairly often and he said it was always raining there, umbrella and raincoat totally essential.

 

[Baba Galant]

I'll have to go over every fuse and every relay in the engine compartment again.

Ah yes that does put a slightly different slant on it; some people's wiring is rubbish so something could easily have fallen off or come apart.

Isn't it raining? My father used to have to travel to Melbourne for business fairly often and he said it was always raining there, umbrella and raincoat totally essential.

Ha! Praying for rain to cool things down, came through big time.
Removed the turbo timer, pretty simple as it had an adaptor loom for our vehicles, not the culprit
Labeled up the Mongoose wiring as it's all black but had to bail and do some work.
The cut n joins are ugly but have held, I'll bypass the ignition wire first and see if I can't retain the remote opening side of things.
Original ignition connector is fine, now plugged directly into the ignition switch, still only 1 wire with any power.

 

[Baba Galant]

Fixed. The Mongoose alarm had shat itself internally regarding the ignition cut out relay.
Bypassed that side of it, but all other features work, it's alive again.

Big thank you to Tony and BCX for pointing me in the right direction!

 

[Tony_T]

Ah was there too much load for the little relays in the alarm unit to handle resulting in burnt contacts in one of them? I don't think it's normal to wire all those heavy load things through the alarm, it's usually only the start wire and perhaps the feed to the fuel pump relay which don't draw much. Those Chinese relays are often badly made and very flimsy. You can replace the relay sometime and restore the alarm operation.
Anyway it's great you have a working vehicle again.

 

[BCX]

This issue is still here and I can not figure it out, can anyone help me? I’m wondering if it’s maybe a crank angle sensor or something

Going back to the original topic.

Something that comes to mind... When the throttle is resting at idle, there is a switch that lets the ecu know theres no throttle input.

If the switch is inoperable, or the throttle cable adjustment is too tight preventing it from making contact, then you'll get weird idle gremlins as well as decel injector cut will not work (increased fuel consumption)

Will post back shortly how to check the idle switch.

 

[Baba Galant]

Going back to the original topic.

Something that comes to mind... When the throttle is resting at idle, there is a switch that lets the ecu know theres no throttle input.

If the switch is inoperable, or the throttle cable adjustment is too tight preventing it from making contact, then you'll get weird idle gremlins as well as decel injector cut will not work (increased fuel consumption)

Will post back shortly how to check the idle switch.

I've found the settings description a little vague, set to just when it goes open circuit.
I would have thought just before that point where it's just a closed circuit telling the ECU it's at idle.
Throttle bodies with TCL are an absolute pain the get right. TPS is easy enough using evoscan, but that APS (I think)is not easy.

 

[BCX]

I found (as has Steve from TME) that TPS set to 13.3% is the sweet spot.

Need to ensure the throttle cable has a bit of slack in it to ensure it rests of the stop screw (and if TPS correctly adjusted, the idle switch is working)

The idle rest switch is within the TPS (or APS if you got ASC)
For TPS (non ASC) measure continuity between pin 1 - earth (black wire) and pin 2 - idle switch (yellow/red wire).
For APS (with ASC) measure continuity between pin 4 - earth (black wire) and pin 3 - idle switch (yellow/red wire).

Continuity only when throttle/pedal is at rest.

 

[Baba Galant]

I checked mine this morning, auto, TCL.
No continuity at closed throttle.
Quick crack of the bolts 8mm that only and open ended spanner can grab.
Set and checked while blipping the cable till locked up.
Definitely a different drive, at cruise or just after a squirt you can feel the engine revs drop much quicker, I can see how this will change fuel consumption, prior to this it was a very slow decrease in engine RPM's.
I can see how this may be related to the surging problem as stated in the original thread. May well be a buggered IPS.
Thanks again BCX