ersanalamin
Leaving Skid Marks
yes ed, For ECT, connection is correct but show false value? how do you calibrate it? do you have the equation?
UTCOMP installation
- Thread starter Blackbird
- Start date
yes ed, For ECT, connection is correct but show false value? how do you calibrate it? do you have the equation?
- Location
- Melbourne
- First Name
- Ed
- Drive
- 2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
ersanalamin
Leaving Skid Marks
sorry dopost
- Location
- Melbourne
- First Name
- Ed
- Drive
- 2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
OK @trotty I need to shortcut the time I'm about to spend. Have you done any calibration already using the ECU water temperature sensor?
I'm going to eat a few hours calibrating my oil pressure and temperature because the sensors came with an Innovate gauge and I was not provided with their resistance tables.
I'm going to eat a few hours calibrating my oil pressure and temperature because the sensors came with an Innovate gauge and I was not provided with their resistance tables.
- Location
- Melbourne
- First Name
- Ed
- Drive
- 2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
I'm in the middle of my own install but as I learn stuff I will post it here.
0.400 metres per impulse is the vehicle speed calibration we need. I've recently GPS tested my speedo and it was exactly accurate. With the setting listed here, the UTCOMP matches the speedometer exactly.
0.400 metres per impulse is the vehicle speed calibration we need. I've recently GPS tested my speedo and it was exactly accurate. With the setting listed here, the UTCOMP matches the speedometer exactly.
- Location
- Melbourne
- First Name
- Ed
- Drive
- 2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
More calibration data folks,
AEM Boost Gauge
Connected from the 5v output wire of the gauge to an Adc input on the UTCOMP. Calibration data is a=0.91, b=-1.50 if you want the gauge to show zero psi when the engine is off, otherwise it will show absolute pressure (14.7psi at sea level). I just wish the UTCOMP was able to switch between PSIA and inches of mercury for vacuum because it is still common to switch between inches of mercury for vacuum and then psi for boost. Most gauges work this way. Unfortunately the way the display works on the UTCOMP is a bit confusing until this gets resolved.
AEM Wideband AFR Gauge
Connected from the 5v output wire of the gauge to an Adc input on the UTCOMP. Taking guidance from the calibration tables provided by AEM, the values to calibrate this input are a=1.99, b=10.01.
AEM Boost Gauge
Connected from the 5v output wire of the gauge to an Adc input on the UTCOMP. Calibration data is a=0.91, b=-1.50 if you want the gauge to show zero psi when the engine is off, otherwise it will show absolute pressure (14.7psi at sea level). I just wish the UTCOMP was able to switch between PSIA and inches of mercury for vacuum because it is still common to switch between inches of mercury for vacuum and then psi for boost. Most gauges work this way. Unfortunately the way the display works on the UTCOMP is a bit confusing until this gets resolved.
AEM Wideband AFR Gauge
Connected from the 5v output wire of the gauge to an Adc input on the UTCOMP. Taking guidance from the calibration tables provided by AEM, the values to calibrate this input are a=1.99, b=10.01.
- Location
- Melbourne
- First Name
- Ed
- Drive
- 2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
Some more data. The oil pressure gauge I have is marked GO-521 which according to the Interwebs is 0-100psi and 240-33ohm. Therefore the correct way to use this gauge is to wire the black wire to ground and the power wire to one of the AdcVcc inputs on the UTCOMP. Converting 100 psi to bar and punching the data into the Excel spreadsheet they provide gives calibration values of a=-8.26 and b=8.17.
The last sensor is oil temperature. I really have no idea about its resistance curve.
The last sensor is oil temperature. I really have no idea about its resistance curve.
- Location
- Melbourne
- First Name
- Ed
- Drive
- 2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
@Blackbird I'm feeling lazy. Can you please obtain your injector constant data and put it here so I can enter it into mine?
Unless you are running bigger injectors. In which case, don't tell me.
Unless you are running bigger injectors. In which case, don't tell me.
- Location
- Melbourne
- First Name
- Ed
- Drive
- 2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
OK I've done a basic fuel calibration. I feel it's not bad. I set the injector constant to 0.00572 which is about a 65% increase over the stock values.
On a 23km trip around the block I got about 11.3L/100km. For the driving I was doing I think that was fair.
Will be interested to do the "accurate" calibration where you fill up the tank, go for a 100km drive and then fill up again to measure the real average vs. calculated average and correct it. I wonder just how close I got with my finger-in-the-air method.
On a 23km trip around the block I got about 11.3L/100km. For the driving I was doing I think that was fair.
Will be interested to do the "accurate" calibration where you fill up the tank, go for a 100km drive and then fill up again to measure the real average vs. calculated average and correct it. I wonder just how close I got with my finger-in-the-air method.
- Location
- Melbourne
- First Name
- Ed
- Drive
- 2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
My install is finished. I have all sensors working and calibrated, including:
- Inside air temperature
- Outside air temperature
- Engine Coolant Temperature
- Oil Temperature
- Oil Pressure
- Boost Pressure
- Air/Fuel Ratio
- Vehicle Speed
- Fuel Injector pulse
- Headlights (for dimming)
- Location
- Melbourne
- First Name
- Ed
- Drive
- 2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
Took a look at the Reveltronics forum and there's a bloke there who has the same oil pressure sensor fitted. Sure enough, his calibration values were around a=-12.4 and b=11.98.
However, I went for a drive with this calibration and the oil pressure was way off - reading much too high. He assumed the pressure sensor was 0-100psi and 240-33 ohms but Artur from Reveltronics reckons sensors in this range are actually 0-150psi.
I ran the numbers through the calculator again and the results I have now which look accurate to me use calibration values of <REDACTED - See later posts because the info here was still way wrong>
However, I went for a drive with this calibration and the oil pressure was way off - reading much too high. He assumed the pressure sensor was 0-100psi and 240-33 ohms but Artur from Reveltronics reckons sensors in this range are actually 0-150psi.
I ran the numbers through the calculator again and the results I have now which look accurate to me use calibration values of <REDACTED - See later posts because the info here was still way wrong>
ersanalamin
Leaving Skid Marks
Hi Ed, saw your post on here and reveltronic forum. I follow the guide with ECT, and seems to work fine. I think I miss type filling the drop down menu on UTCOMP set up. I put 0.400 for VSS and 0.00572. as you said but, havent chance to test on high way and hard driving. So far thats is only I can do for setting. All of my sensor i need allready installed on car but i havent wiring them up. thats reveltronic 1 channel EGT sensor, additional Mitsubishi electric Boost Sensor, Auto Gauge Oil Pressure and Temperature and Innovate LC1.
what wire did you tap for headlight warning on? ashtray dimmer lamp?
BTW Anybody ever try to tap the ECU barometric pressure wire for utcomp turbo boost gauge? is it realiable? and is it possible to watch the detonation signal on UTCOMP 3.0 pro?
Heres the picture where I put the UTCOMP module and design all of 2.8 mm connector needed and posi tap connector used for neat installation as possible and hasle free installation/uninstallation.. coz you know its a bit PITA to get the ECU module out from its bracket and i dont want to look messy in there. Anyway, I think Posi tap is the best wire tap connector i ve ever used, strong, east to tap, solderless, vibra resistance, no damage to wire, and never fail on me. So far I am very happy with UTCOMP and dont mind to throw stock digital clock out of window . maybe I will write some cons and pros and what feature I want to be added for UTCOMP furher development.
My friend also want a set with no decision on oled color yet, mine with white oled. Any ideas what is the best oled color option to watch that is eye catching to see data stream in night and day driving (overshadowed by sun light)?
ersanalamin
Leaving Skid Marks
Would you share the equation for typical 2 pin oil temperature sensor?
- Location
- Melbourne
- First Name
- Ed
- Drive
- 2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
Right now I'm basing mine off the info for a Bosch M12. Not sure if it is correct, have asked innovate Motorsports for what product they supplied me.
But if you are going to buy one, just buy one that includes the resistance/temperature curve table.
ersanalamin
Leaving Skid Marks
I am using this kind of temperature sensor
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-...0001&campid=5337858983&icep_item=261974520834
is it reliable? guess it will work with stock utcomp equation? coz i think stock water temperature universal, same with this
- Location
- Melbourne
- First Name
- Ed
- Drive
- 2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
No, one of the four wires that powers the clock has a dimmer wire. I used the clock wires for everything, although this does mean that the unit turns off when I crank the starter and it stays on when the car is turned off but the radio is on. I'll work on that later.
No, and no. Neither will work. The ECU baro sensor is before the turbos so it will see no boost. Not helpful in any way. As for the detonation, this is an ECU processed signal and there is a lot of signal analysis performed by the ECU to determine knock vs. general engine noise. Your best option to get a visual indication of knock is have your ECU reflashed with a ROM that supports CEL-on-Knock. @TME_Steve can provide more information here.
I like the blue, but that's just a personal preference. White would be a colour that more closely matches the hue of the stock dashboard gauges.
- Location
- Melbourne
- First Name
- Ed
- Drive
- 2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
No idea mate. If they can't provide you with the resistance curves I'd go elsewhere. However, there's a limited number of these things on the market so if you already have the sensor, just go and find all the temperature tables you can, and try them all until you find one that works.
ersanalamin
Leaving Skid Marks
Thanks for reply ed. I once intend to buy integral knock meter from yahoo auction, but dont like the box module shape. i like jss electronic knock gauge but very pricey. maybe i will make that integral box shape gauge indicator into round gauge by just removing is led indicator into 52 mm round shape knock gauge. just my opiniion.
ersanalamin
Leaving Skid Marks
heres data of typcal universal temperature sensor data vs stock mazda IAT, how do we input the data into NTC calibration calculator?
seen on this link
http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=228759&hilit=megasquirt&start=60
maybe this tools can help to extract data from the curve?
http://lifeupfront.com/2009/02/18/how-to-convert-a-scanned-graph-into-real-data/
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