UTCOMP installation

[ersanalamin]

OK I've updated coolant calibration by running EvoScan with the engine started cold and monitoring what the ECU says the temperature was. For every 10 degree change in coolant temperature, I noted down what the UTCOMP was seeing in output voltage from the sensor. This resulted in a rather odd looking calibration of A=130, t=1.8, T0=-8. Seems weird with that negative number but the curve matches almost perfectly in the Excel spreadsheet. For your reference, the blue line is the calculated curve from the table of temperature-resistance data and the red line is a curve that results from the above equation. You have to keep tweaking the numbers until you find an equation that matches the curve.

It's basically a way of creating a resistance curve with three numbers rather than a table of many values (usually a minimum of 2x10 cells).

View attachment 44179

Ignore the drop off at the end - that was because the start temperature was 14 and I next counted at 20 degrees. The change in resistance was so small that the graph jumped. It's apparently "known" that these NTC thermistors are not super accurate in small temperature variations.

@TME_Steve I did not calibrate using "coolant temp scaled". Can you remind me how much of a big deal it is to use the "scaled" data from EvoScan?

great job ed, will try equation tonight

 

[Kaldek]

I like analog sensor better that digital way too much wiring lying around. look very messy

Not if you use four-core microphone cable and heat shrink the ends of the cable appropriately.

 

[ersanalamin]

OK I've updated coolant calibration by running EvoScan with the engine started cold and monitoring what the ECU says the temperature was. For every 10 degree change in coolant temperature, I noted down what the UTCOMP was seeing in output voltage from the sensor. This resulted in a rather odd looking calibration of A=130, t=1.8, T0=-8. Seems weird with that negative number but the curve matches almost perfectly in the Excel spreadsheet. For your reference, the blue line is the calculated curve from the table of temperature-resistance data and the red line is a curve that results from the above equation. You have to keep tweaking the numbers until you find an equation that matches the curve.

It's basically a way of creating a resistance curve with three numbers rather than a table of many values (usually a minimum of 2x10 cells).

View attachment 44179

Ignore the drop off at the end - that was because the start temperature was 14 and I next counted at 20 degrees. The change in resistance was so small that the graph jumped. It's apparently "known" that these NTC thermistors are not super accurate in small temperature variations.

@TME_Steve I did not calibrate using "coolant temp scaled". Can you remind me how much of a big deal it is to use the "scaled" data from EvoScan?

put the equation yesterday, the peak of my ECT is 86,x celcius in traffic jam, normal driving never seem to pas 80 celcius. is that normal? i use golpher radiator. BTW I use VSS constant 0.4100, seems match with my speedometer. I converted the speedo to 260 kph using Bradc DIY guidance. still confuse with injector equation, wow, is it true vr4 is so thirsty even in normal driving?

 

[Kaldek]

put the equation yesterday, the peak of my ECT is 86,x celcius in traffic jam, normal driving never seem to pas 80 celcius. is that normal? i use golpher radiator. BTW I use VSS constant 0.4100, seems match with my speedometer. I converted the speedo to 260 kph using Bradc DIY guidance. still confuse with injector equation, wow, is it true vr4 is so thirsty even in normal driving?

The temperature would be about right because the thermostat opens by 82 degrees C. Radiator size would make no impact to that except if you were pushing the car hard on a track (due to the larger thermal mass of water and the larger cooling area of the golpher).

You are probably right about the VSS constant. I have noticed the odometer and UTCOMP are a *little* bit out. I am probably driving 600km this weekend so will use that time to perform an accurate calibration of both fuel and speed.

 

[Kaldek]

Updated my VSS constant to 0.3921 based on odometer vs. UTCOMP data. Also filled up the tank and reset the UTCOMP VSS and injector pulse counts. I'll do my long drive this weekend, fill up, and then post recalibrated info.

 

[ersanalamin]

Updated my VSS constant to 0.3921 based on odometer vs. UTCOMP data. Also filled up the tank and reset the UTCOMP VSS and injector pulse counts. I'll do my long drive this weekend, fill up, and then post recalibrated info.

yeah tyre size should affect odometer too, right now i use 17 rim, 235/45 profile. what your rim profile ed?

 

[Kaldek]

yeah tyre size should affect odometer too, right now i use 17 rim, 235/45 profile. what your rim profile ed?

18" 235/40 on Evo X BBS rims. The resulting rolling diameter I have confirmed via GPS it is accurate to within 1% of real speed.

 

[ersanalamin]

18" 235/40 on Evo X BBS rims. The resulting rolling diameter I have confirmed via GPS it is accurate to within 1% of real speed.

View attachment 44185

woooww love that evo x rim, another expensive toy he he he. you have very good taste and thick pocket. with 235/40 is it no rub on over fender whats so ever? why dont you put also CZ4A front brembo caliper? evo x bbs rim is forged rim no wonder a set in decent condition is still expensive. now I am staying with bbs style evo 7 rim and evo 8 brembo caliper front and rear. Evo x BBS rim and Evo X front brembo caliper thats on my next mod list. after I am finish with forged internal project.

http://radenferdyindratmoko.blogspot.co.id/2014/04/modifikasi-mitsubishi-galant-build-to.html

 

[Kaldek]

woooww love that evo x rim, another expensive toy he he he. you have very good taste and thick pocket. with 235/40 no rub on fender whats so ever? why dont you put also CZ4A front brembo caliper? now I am stay with bbs style evo 7 rim and evo 8 brembo caliper front and rear. Evo x BBS rim and Evo X front brembo caliper thats on my next mod list. after I am finish with forged internal project.

I haven't detected any fender rub so far. The Brembo calipers here are from an older Evo and they work and look fine. The rotors are also two-piece SCR Pro from Project Mu.

But yes I have enough money to spend on the car. I'm 41 years old and am a senior consultant at a global IT company. I don't like people who buy BMW and Mercedes to look cool or to show off their money, instead I prefer to buy a cheap car and work on it.

 

[ersanalamin]

I haven't detected any fender rub so far. The Brembo calipers here are from an older Evo and they work and look fine. The rotors are also two-piece SCR Pro from Project Mu.

But yes I have enough money to spend on the car. I'm 41 years old and am a senior consultant at a global IT company. I don't like people who buy BMW and Mercedes to look cool or to show off their money, instead I prefer to buy a cheap car and work on it.

View attachment 44186

ha ha ha dude, cheap or expensive is relative, great condition stock VR4 in my country worth $25K USD. and beside how much money we have to spend and where just to get any stock 280 bhp car awd brand new? $25K USD? I dont think so. A great condition VR4 right now is price less. so I am proud to have one

 

[Kaldek]

great condition stock VR4 in my country worth $25K USD

Damn! I paid $4500 USD for mine. Mind you I've easily spent another $5,000 USD on it. Probably more - I don't keep track because it would just depress me.

 

[ersanalamin]

Damn! I paid $4500 USD for mine. Mind you I've easily spent another $5,000 USD on it. Probably more - I don't keep track because it would just depress me.

aha just buy CZ4A brembo front caliper, easy to install, only drill and tap the hub for bigger caliper bolt, but PITA job for the rear caliper so stay with older evo for the rear.

 

[Kaldek]

Thought I'd be "smart" and measure the temperature my Innovate oil gauge showed when connected to a potentiometer, so I could generate an accurate calibration for the oil temperature sensor. Innovate has not responded to me with the resistance curve for their sensor.

Ended up with a super weird calibration that suggested my oil temperature was still 65 degrees after not driving for four hours. Why can't people just provide the bloody resistance curve for their gear! I'm seriously thinking of drilling out a cheap temperature sensor and using one of the digital probes.

 

[Kaldek]

Dammit, my UTCOMP has stopped responding to USB connections. Can't get it to recognise as a USB device no matter what cable or PC I use.

Fuggit, looks like a long repair process and shipping stuff back and forth to Poland is in my future. Sigh.

 

[Kaldek]

PHEW. Power down and restart fixed it. Thank feck!!!

 

[Kaldek]

OK ladies and gentlemen, I've taken the car for a fuel calibration drive. As you may recall from an earlier post, my original guess for the fuel calibration after a 10km drive was 0.00572.
So, after a 170km drive the accurate calibration figures are in. And the calibrated answer is: 0.00567! A difference of only 0.00005.

The UTCOMP said I had consumed 19.4 litres of fuel, and the actual amount I filled was 19.3. Over a 170km journey that difference is so small that I was *already* within 1% tolerance from a guess based purely on my experience with the car's fuel economy.
Not bad, Kal, not bad.

By the way the trip average consumption was 11.4L/100km. That was driving up into the mountains round here to Healesville and then back down the freeway to come home.

 

[Kaldek]

Just for laughs, the figure of 0.00567 litres per second works out to:

• 0.00567 x 6 injectors = 0.03 litres per second for all injectors
• 0.03 x 60 seconds = 2.04 litres a minute for all injectors; therefore
• 2.04 litres x 60 minutes = 122 litres per hour

So at 100% duty cycle you could drain the tank in about 30 minutes. Not that 100% duty cycle is realistic, maybe more like 70% but you'd say an entire tank in an hour is possible.

The figure is just a constant though - the UTCOMP uses it calculate fuel consumption. That 0.00567 value is internally divided by 1000 so that within the UTCOMP it is able to calculate how much fuel is delivered by an injector for every millisecond of opening time.

 

[ersanalamin]

PHEW. Power down and restart fixed it. Thank feck!!!

OK ladies and gentlemen, I've taken the car for a fuel calibration drive. As you may recall from an earlier post, my original guess for the fuel calibration after a 10km drive was 0.00572.
So, after a 170km drive the accurate calibration figures are in. And the calibrated answer is: 0.00567! A difference of only 0.00005.

The UTCOMP said I had consumed 19.4 litres of fuel, and the actual amount I filled was 19.3. Over a 170km journey that difference is so small that I was *already* within 1% tolerance from a guess based purely on my experience with the car's fuel economy.
Not bad, Kal, not bad.

By the way the trip average consumption was 11.4L/100km. That was driving up into the mountains round here to Healesville and then back down the freeway to come home.

great job ed, hey my UTCOMP start acting weird like yours, what should I do? unbolt the UTCOMP ground?

 

[Kaldek]

great job ed, hey my UTCOMP start acting weird like yours, what should I do? unbolt the UTCOMP ground?

I unplugged it. Luckily in my case I used the clock connector and even the plug from the clock so I can just disconnect it. Wait five minutes and plug it back in.
Disconnecting the ground may not work because many of the sensors are grounded. It may not turn off and might use a sensor ground instead. You really need to disconnect the +12v power cables.

 

[ersanalamin]

I unplugged it. Luckily in my case I used the clock connector and even the plug from the clock so I can just disconnect it. Wait five minutes and plug it back in.
Disconnecting the ground may not work because many of the sensors are grounded. It may not turn off and might use a sensor ground instead. You really need to disconnect the +12v power cables.

Soo alli need to do is disconnect all of UTCOMP ground and power cable right?