UTCOMP installation

[jungle]

Just for laughs, the figure of 0.00567 litres per second works out to:

• 0.00567 x 6 injectors = 0.03 litres per second for all injectors
• 0.03 x 60 seconds = 2.04 litres a minute for all injectors; therefore
• 2.04 litres x 60 minutes = 122 litres per hour

So at 100% duty cycle you could drain the tank in about 30 minutes. Not that 100% duty cycle is realistic, maybe more like 70% but you'd say an entire tank in an hour is possible.

The figure is just a constant though - the UTCOMP uses it calculate fuel consumption. That 0.00567 value is internally divided by 1000 so that within the UTCOMP it is able to calculate how much fuel is delivered by an injector for every millisecond of opening time.

Ha i'd use 1/4 the tank in 5 minutes in my 180 on the track

 

[Kaldek]

Soo alli need to do is disconnect all of UTCOMP ground and power cable right?

Yeah. You could also just pull the connector out the back of it. Same thing. Depends what's easier to reach.

 

[Kaldek]

I created a playlist for the overview of the UTCOMP installation:

Here is the playlist link for all five videos.

 

[ersanalamin]

I created a playlist for the overview of the UTCOMP installation:

Here is the playlist link for all five videos.

BTW where did you put the utcomp module? any pic? and how is VSS calibration, any update? my car is MT so I put the utcomp module under engine ECU where the AT ecu placed.

 

[Kaldek]

BTW where did you put the utcomp module? any pic? and how is VSS calibration, any update? my car is MT so I put the utcomp module under engine ECU where the AT ecu placed.

My last video shows where I put it - down beside the radio.

VSS constant is now 0.3921 I think. Gives accurate odometer reading but speed displayed is a little higher than what the dashboard shows by about 2km/h. This is a common problem; vehicle manufacturers often overstate your speed on the dash whilst accurately calculating distance.

 

[trotty]

Awesome how to bud. I just didn't have the patience to document it all. Thanks for the mention and some credit!

 

[Kaldek]

Awesome how to bud. I just didn't have the patience to document it all. Thanks for the mention and some credit!

Thanks for the thanks! I was worried you might ask me to remove your name. Some folks are really funny about being named in videos.

 

[Kaldek]

Here's a little guidance on buying your own sensors to get data into your UTCOMP:

Oil pressure and temperature
First up, buy an oil filter sandwich plate. One with at least two 1/8 NPT threads. I bought this one from Dirt Devil racing on eBay.

Also buy at least four metres of four-core microphone cable from somewhere like Jaycar. With the one cable you can get data from both the pressure and temperature sensors back to the UTCOMP in the cabin.

When ordering your UTCOMP, you can add in the oil pressure and temperature sensors they sell:

• three-wire pressure sensor from Reveltronics
  • It will be a much more accurate sensor than the normal bulky two-wire (sometimes one wire) pressure sensor.
• Analogue NTC temperature sensor from Reveltronics
  • Possibly not the best sensor in the world, but they provide the resistance curve for you in a datasheet so you can get an accurate calibration. Plus, if you want to get funky you can drill out the housing and insert one of the three-wire digital temperature sensors which are highly accurate.

Total cost for cable and the sensors above would be about $100, plus the postage from Reveltronics. If you ordered the sensors with your UTCOMP the impact of postage would be lower.

To save even more money, you can order similar sensor items from eBay but often these don't come with the calibration tables:

• Example Oil pressure transducer (link may expire)
• Example Oil temperature sensor (link may expire)

Using the four-core microphone cable, you can use the following wiring layout:

• Red:
  • UTCOMP end: +5V feed from any of the following pins: A6, A18, B6 or B12
  • Sensor end: power input for pressure sensor
• Black:
  • UTCOMP end: Sensor ground matching the +5V pin you used (e.g. the ground for A6 is A4)
  • Sensor end: Ground wires for both sensors
• Yellow:
  • UTCOMP end: One of the AdcVcc pins. Either A20 (or B8 if you have a UTCOMP Pro)
  • Sensor end: NTC Temperature sensor power feed
• White:
  • UTCOMP end: One of the free Adc ports that read a 5 volt signal. Either A8 or A9 (also possibly B2, B3, or B9 if you have a UTCOMP-PRO)
  • Sensor end: Data out (green wire if using the Reveltronics sensor)

Run the four-core cable from the sensors at the oil filter sandwich plate up past the air conditioner compressor and following along the turbo Y pipe before branching off to the wiring hole next to the brake booster in the side of the engine bay. From here it can be run into the cabin by removing the plastic wheel arch and pulling the cable through from the engine bay and into the feed that goes into the cabin directly above the footwell near the throttle pedal.

 

[Kaldek]

And for some more info on getting data into your UTCOMP for cheap, here is some guidance on boost.

My car has an AEM boost gauge. It cost me $250. You can get the same capability in your car with your UTCOMP for less than $30. Winning!

You'll need two things:

• A spare Adc port on the UTCOMP. Basic model has two in total, Pro model has five
• At least a three bar MAP sensor. Here's one from eBay for under $30 delivered. Max 2 bar (~28psi) boost reading for a 3-bar total range. Feel free to buy a 5 bar sensor if you intend to boost to the moon with huge turbos.
• Cabling. You have a couple of options here:
  • Run vac hose into the cabin and put your MAP sensor in there (not recommended)
  • Run electrical cable into the cabin and mount your MAP sensor somewhere on the plenum (better)

I recommend the four-core microphone cable from Jaycar again because it's shielded. You only need three of the four wires, so if you can find decent three-core cable somewhere, knock yourself out.

Wiring for this sensor would go as follows:

• Red:
  • UTCOMP end: +5v from one of the UTCOMP feeds, either pin A6, A18 or B12
  • Sensor end: +5v feed (red wire usually, depends on the sensor you buy though so always check!)
• Black:
  • UTCOMP end: Ground wire matching whichever +5v feed you used. For example, the ground wire for A6 is A4
  • Sensor end: Sensor ground (duh, usually a black wire)
• Yellow:
  • UTCOMP end: One of the free Adc ports that read a 5 volt signal. Either A8 or A9 (also possibly B2, B3, or B9 if you have a UTCOMP-PRO).
  • Sensor end: Signal output wire (might be yellow, white, green, whatever. Check your sensor so you get it right)

Cut the remaining white wire in the cable, and appropriately seal up the cable sheath using heat shrink tube or something.

I can't recall the exact settings for calibration of a MAP sensor. Heck, I can't even remember how I got the data right for my AEM one! I don't think it's hard though - it's a linear relationship between 0.5 volts meaning full vacuum (literally, 0 bar/psi of absolute pressure) and 4.5 volts meaning maximum signal. For the MAP sensor I have listed here I think 4.5 volts would relate to 2 bar or about 28psi of boost.

 

[Kaldek]

Continuing our sensor topic, let's talk about wideband O2 for measuring Air-Fuel Ration or Lambda. UPDATED October 2016 with Innovate LC-2 recommendation.


Innovate LC-2 (no gauge)
The cheaper option is to use the UTCOMP for all AFR display and buy an Innovate LC-2 kit without a gauge. The LC-2 supports a 0-5 volt output feed for the UTCOMP but also supports narrowband simulation. This means you can remove your factory O2 sensor and wire this sensor into the O2 connector and simulate the factory O2 signal for the car's ECU. You can also tweak the signal so your car runs leaner or richer than normal when in closed loop. And lastly, the LC-2 is also supported as a wideband feed for EvoScan. This means that that the one device can:

• Feed UTCOMP;
• Replace your factory O2 sensor so you don't need another O2 bung in your exhaust;
• Make your car run leaner (for economy) when it's in closed loop; and
• Send log data to EvoScan

Optional - Buy an additional gauge for the Innovate LC-2
If you want a dedicated AFR gauge in addition to the UTCOMP display, you can buy gauges for the Innovate unit. They are an additional $93 USD (RRP) and come in Blue, Green and Red display colours.

Installation
To get your wideband O2 signal into your UTCOMP from the LC-2, you only need one wire connected between the AEM gauge/Innovate controller and the UTCOMP.

At the UTCOMP end you just need to connect the Yellow wire (5v output) from the LC-2 to one of the Adc wires in the UTCOMP, either A8, A9, B2, B3 or B9.

As for the O2 sensor itself, in this setup we are replacing the factory sensor with a simulated wideband signal from the LC-2. Disconnect the factory O2 sensor plug (it's behind the passenger side inner kick panel (i.e. the middle of the car, not the door!), push the cable and grommet down and out of the car and then remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust using a big spanner and some WD-40 or other penetrating oil to free it up.

Lastly, connect the brown wire from the LC-2 into the signal pin on the factory O2 sensor connector that leads to the ECU. I don't currently have guidance on which wire this is, or whether the O2 heater circuit needs a resistor placed in it, but feel free to contact me to see if I have already worked it out and forgotten to update this post.

 

[ersanalamin]

And for some more info on getting data into your UTCOMP for cheap, here is some guidance on boost.

My car has an AEM boost gauge. It cost me $250. You can get the same capability in your car with your UTCOMP for less than $30. Winning!

You'll need two things:

• At least a three bar MAP sensor. Here's one from eBay for under $30 delivered. Max 2 bar boost reading for a 3-bar total range. Feel free to buy a 5 bar sensor if you intend to boost to the moon with huge turbos.
• Cabling. You have a couple of options here:
  • Run vac hose into the cabin and put your MAP sensor in there (not recommended)
  • Run electrical cable into the cabin and mount your MAP sensor somewhere on the plenum (better)

I recommend the four-core microphone cable from Jaycar again because it's shielded. You only need three of the four wires, so if you can find decent three-core cable somewhere, knock yourself out.

Wiring for this sensor would go as follows:

• Red:
  • UTCOMP end: +5v from one of the UTCOMP feeds, either pin A6, A18 or B12
  • Sensor end: +5v feed (red wire usually, depends on the sensor you buy though so always check!)
• Black:
  • UTCOMP end: Ground wire matching whichever +5v feed you used. For example, the ground wire for A6 is A4
  • Sensor end: Sensor ground (duh, usually a black wire)
• Yellow:
  • UTCOMP end: Signal wire matching whichever +5v feed you uses. For example, the signal wire for A6 is A5
  • Sensor end: Signal output wire (might be yellow, white, green, whatever. Check your sensor so you get it right)

Cut the remaining white wire in the cable, and appropriately seal up the cable sheath using heat shrink tube or something.

I can't recall the exact settings for calibration of a MAP sensor. Heck, I can't even remember how I got the data right for my AEM one! I don't think it's hard though - it's a linear relationship between 0.5 volts meaning full vacuum and 4.5 volts meaning maximum signal. For the MAP sensor I have listed here I think 4.5 volts would relate to 2 bar or 29psi of boost.

Hi Ed, all wiring for boost sensor you are mention is for DS18b20, a digital temperature sensor. I know what you mean, but how we assigned for that connection in UTCOMP, coz there is no option for boost pressure in digital sensor output. shed me a light please

 

[Kaldek]

Hi Ed, all wiring for boost sensor you are mention is for DS18b20, a digital temperature sensor. I know what you mean, but how we assigned for that connection in UTCOMP, coz there is no option for boost pressure in digital sensor output. shed me a light please

Ah I've made a fatal mistake regarding the pins.

You need to use one of the AdcX inputs for the signal. Whoops.

@trotty I've given you incorrect advice mate. We need to use the 0-5 volt Adc ports for your MAP sensor and oil pressure transducer signal. I don't know if you have those ports free?

This makes a UTCOMP base model difficult to get all the data into because we need three 0-5 sensors and only have two. In your case, I'm not sure how we can get coolant temp, oil pressure and MAP without drilling out that cheap oil temperature sensor and putting one of the digital temperature sensors into it.

 

[trotty]

all good. I'll be upgrading to pro soon anyway.

For sale one utcomp lol

 

[ersanalamin]

Ah I've made a fatal mistake regarding the pins.

You need to use one of the AdcX inputs for the signal. Whoops.

@trotty I've given you incorrect advice mate. We need to use the 0-5 volt Adc ports for your MAP sensor and oil pressure transducer signal. I don't know if you have those ports free?

This makes a UTCOMP base model difficult to get all the data into because we need three 0-5 sensors and only have two. In your case, I'm not sure how we can get coolant temp, oil pressure and MAP without drilling out that cheap oil temperature sensor and putting one of the digital temperature sensors into it.

Ahhh in that case, thats is all right. BTW I have this Lamco MAP sensor like in the picture with 3 core wiring. the wiring is black, red, and red-yellow. dont know for sure but I guess black is for ground, red for voltage and red-yellow is for signal. Is typically aftermarket MAP sensor must be powered by 5 Volt ot 12 volt voltage? and how do we calibration this MAP sensor?

 

[Kaldek]

Ahhh in that case, thats is all right. BTW I have this Lamco MAP sensor like in the picture with 3 core wiring. the wiring is black, red, and red-yellow. dont know for sure but I guess black is for ground, red for voltage and red-yellow is for signal. Is typically aftermarket MAP sensor must be powered by 5 Volt ot 12 volt voltage? and how do we calibration this MAP sensor?

View attachment 44352

Generally voltage for sensors from an ECU is always 5 volts but the UTCOMP can use 5.21 volts (mine is 5.21). Calibration assuming a 5.0 volt reference should be a linear line between 0 or 0.5 volts for a full vacuum (i.e. 0 kpa) and 5 volts for maximum pressure. What that pressure is depends on whether its a 3 bar or 5 bar sensor, and whether the sensor's reading for zero pressure is 0 volts or 0.5 volts or something else depends on the sensor you bought.

@ersanalamin I can't find data for the MAP sensor you showed. You'll need to keep checking Google or ask the manufacturer for the calibration info, or buy a sensor which you can find the calibration table for.

People tend to forget that MAP means Manifold Absolute Pressure - not Manifold Gauge Pressure or Manifold Boost Pressure. You need to work backwards from the absolute pressure to get a gauge pressure and you need to assume what altitude you will generally be driving at. Sea level is 14.7 psi absolute pressure so that becomes your "zero" point if you decide to use that as your starting assumption. Anything below 14.7psi absolute gets displayed as vacuum. Anything above that gets displayed as boost.

@trotty this will help you too. Your MAP sensor looks like a GM-type sensor and they follow the calibration chart below (assuming a signal of 5 volts. Note that your signal will probably be 5.210 volts but the UTCOMP will tell you that).

I think your calibration therefore works out to be a=0.65, b=-1.11 assuming 5 volts. My dumb brain tells me that for a 5.21 reference voltage your calibration would be a=0.64, b=-1.15.

 

[Blackbird]

@Kaldek
Sorry for the slow reply.. I didn't get any emails that people were adding to this thread
I'm running 17" evo rims with 235/45r17
And mine is an auto...

My VSS is : 0.3917
Injector constant: 0.00597

It's really close.. within 0.2lt per 100km

 

[Kaldek]

@Kaldek
Sorry for the slow reply.. I didn't get any emails that people were adding to this thread
I'm running 17" evo rims with 235/45r17
And mine is an auto...

My VSS is : 0.3917
Injector constant: 0.00597

It's really close.. within 0.2lt per 100km

Those figures are very close! 0.00028 of a litre and 0.0004 metres per impulse.

Looks like we know exactly where we need to be, I think any of the above figures - either mine or yours - would make any owner happy with the accuracy.

 

[Blackbird]

I got mine by trial and error... and several half tanks of fuel.. mix of city traffic and open roads...
Once you get it close you really see how inaccurate our fuel gauges are lol

 

[trotty]

I'll get my 1000cc injector numbers tomorrow.

 

[Kaldek]

I'll get my 1000cc injector numbers tomorrow.

Any other fuel mods other than those injectors? No increase in fuel pressure or bypass of the fuel pump resistor?