UTCOMP installation

Kaldek

2 AYC Bars
Premium Member
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Ed
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
Hi Ed i like it could you please make it for galant vr4 with clear background and grey for the font? Pleaseeeeee
I'll ask my brother but he's back into crunch week at the magazine. He won't have time for a while.
 

Kaldek

2 AYC Bars
Premium Member
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Ed
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
BTW how comp my utcomp still wont read your logo?
You need to decompress the zip files so there is a folder with the BMP files in it. the UTCOMP application needs to be able to access the folder, not the zip file.
 

ersanalamin

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Indonesia
First Name
Ersan Al Amin
Drive
Year 2000 EA5A => FL EC5A
You need to decompress the zip files so there is a folder with the BMP files in it. the UTCOMP application needs to be able to access the folder, not the zip file.

Sure dude. But utcomp still wont read it, any chance i have to edit ur logo? What software should we use? Windows Bitmap?
 

Kaldek

2 AYC Bars
Premium Member
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Ed
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
I've been working on a UTCOMP installation for @UNARMD and it uses the various sensors I recommended. Here are the calibrations for those:

Three-Wire Oil Pressure Transducer
upload_2016-8-15_10-39-46.png


  • Calibration: a=2.59, b=-1.81
    • Assumes UTCOMP VREF of 5.2 volts, not 5 volts
    • Calibration data was provided directly by Reveltronics as they sell this item
  • Wiring:
    • Connect Red wire to either A6, A18, B6, or B12 on the UTCOMP
    • Connect Black wire to same ground as used by the UTCOMP
    • Connect Green wire to an ADC input on the UTCOMP

GM style 3-bar MAP sensor
upload_2016-8-15_10-35-18.png


  • Calibration: a=0.57, b=-0.93
    • Assumes you live at roughly sea level (14.7psi air pressure = no boost)
    • Calibrated for sensor outputs where 1.62 volts = 0psi, and 5 volts = 28psi
  • Wiring:
    • Connect Red wire to either A6, A18, B6 or B12 on the UTCOMP
      • Corresponds to pin "C" on an OEM GM 3-bar sensor
    • Connect MIDDLE wire (colour could be anything) to an ADC input on the UTCOMP
      • Corresponds to pin "B" on an OEM GM 3-bar sensor
    • Connect REMAINING wire (colour could be anything) to same ground as used by the UTCOMP
      • Corresponds to pin "A" on an OEM GM 3-bar sensor

Two-wire analog oil temperature sensor
upload_2016-8-15_10-42-35.png


  • Calibration: A=-16.1, t=-2.27, T0=194.0
    • Calibration data was provided directly by Reveltronics as they sell this item
  • Wiring:
    • Connect Blue wire to an ADCVcc input on the UTCOMP
    • Connect White wire to same ground as used by the UTCOMP
    • Note: Wire colour isn't particularly important. It's just what I chose. You could flip these if you wanted.
 

Kaldek

2 AYC Bars
Premium Member
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Ed
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
For what it's worth, I have also purchased the oil temperature sensor and oil pressure sensor (as described above) to replace the sensors I'm using on my own car that came with my Innovate gauge.
 

Kaldek

2 AYC Bars
Premium Member
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Ed
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
Fitted the UTCOMP to @UNARMD 's Galant today. Took a bit longer than expected though and I discovered a slight problem with the wiring. I'll reflect that change in my previous posts.

Something else we learned today was that an Innovate LC-1 wideband controller can be used to provide an input into the UTCOMP for monitoring Air/Fuel ratios. To do this you need to connect the brown wire coming from the LC-1 to a spare ADC input on the UTCOMP.

The calibration data for the LC-1 is:

a= 3.01 b= 7.35
 

jungle

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
QLD
First Name
Simon
Drive
1 PFL & 1 FL Legnum
Fitted the UTCOMP to @UNARMD 's Galant today. Took a bit longer than expected though and I discovered a slight problem with the wiring. I'll reflect that change in my previous posts.

Something else we learned today was that an Innovate LC-1 wideband controller can be used to provide an input into the UTCOMP for monitoring Air/Fuel ratios. To do this you need to connect the brown wire coming from the LC-1 to a spare ADC input on the UTCOMP.

The calibration data for the LC-1 is:

a= 3.01 b= 7.35
Great work Ed! I have an LC-1 for my white Leggy(y)
 

ersanalamin

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Indonesia
First Name
Ersan Al Amin
Drive
Year 2000 EA5A => FL EC5A
My lc1 innovate kaput long time ago, and I bought the LC2, wayyyyy better than LC1. just connect the yellow wire from lc1/lc2 to adc input. UTCOMP already had the lc1/lc2 calibrated, no need to input calibration data i suppose.

My lc1 WB controller suddenly silent after i put a replacement alternator. XD1 gauge shows never ending calibration, so i bought a new lc2 since then.

BTW Ed, I ended up using the 3 wire digital temp into oil temperature, he he , no need a headache in calibration..
 

Kaldek

2 AYC Bars
Premium Member
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Ed
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
Posi-Tap is indeed how I am now tapping into the ECU wires. However, you need to buy the smallest Posi-Tap available which is designed for 24-26 AWG wire. The larger the AWG number the smaller the wire, and these wires are pretty small. If you don't buy the right size, the Posi-Tap won't pierce the insulation of the wire.

The ones you want look like this:
upload_2016-8-23_9-38-21.png


Having just done my second installation, I definitely have to describe it as a labour intensive job, especially if you are adding additional sensors like oil pressure/temp and boost. @UNARMD arrived at my place at 9am and we finished around 3pm I guess. Taking back time we had to spend on diagnosing a problem, and the additional time for installing boost and oil pressure/temperature, I could knock out an install for a basic setup in about three hours (not including clock dremel work which I did in advance. Add half an hour for that).

Step one really is using a Dremel to work on the clock mount to get the screen installed. I think if that was the only remaining thing that worried you, I'll happily do it for you via post. That being, you mail me your clock and I modify it for you then post it back for a small fee.
 

ersanalamin

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Indonesia
First Name
Ersan Al Amin
Drive
Year 2000 EA5A => FL EC5A
Posi-Tap is indeed how I am now tapping into the ECU wires. However, you need to buy the smallest Posi-Tap available which is designed for 24-26 AWG wire. The larger the AWG number the smaller the wire, and these wires are pretty small. If you don't buy the right size, the Posi-Tap won't pierce the insulation of the wire.

The ones you want look like this:


Having just done my second installation, I definitely have to describe it as a labour intensive job, especially if you are adding additional sensors like oil pressure/temp and boost. @UNARMD arrived at my place at 9am and we finished around 3pm I guess. Taking back time we had to spend on diagnosing a problem, and the additional time for installing boost and oil pressure/temperature, I could knock out an install for a basic setup in about three hours (not including clock dremel work which I did in advance. Add half an hour for that).

Step one really is using a Dremel to work on the clock mount to get the screen installed. I think if that was the only remaining thing that worried you, I'll happily do it for you via post. That being, you mail me your clock and I modify it for you then post it back for a small fee.

Hi Ed, maybe you can start business by supplying good looking custom UTCOMP LCD housing wk wk wk. BTW the pic is posi connector not the tap.

I am too lazy installing all of sensor wiring, not easy for me to do it DIY due to my job and a father of 5 months old baby girl,

I ve done the UTCOMP LCD housing about 2 week, and it took me a year since bought to get the UTCOMP installed in the place where i want it to be. Right now the sensor that working only LC2 AFR, engine temperature and cabin temperature. Boost pressure, oil pressure, oil temperature sensor already in its place but not the wiring. and EGT sensor, I will leave it for mechanic to do that, because i dont have any tools needed for DIY job. beside the mechanic said the the header must be uninstalled. debris from drilling might harm the turbo turbine.

I put the UTCOMP LCD in the middle of digital clock housing. no room for 3 switch hence i put it on left lower side speedometer shroud following the tomazs guidance at clubvr4.com.

utcomp lcd.JPG
 

Kaldek

2 AYC Bars
Premium Member
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Ed
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
I put the UTCOMP LCD in the middle of digital clock housing. no room for 3 switch hence i put it on left lower side speedometer shroud following the tomazs guidance at clubvr4.com.

Just use the clock buttons and wire those into the UTCOMP. They function the same way - shared ground with multiple buttons.
 

ersanalamin

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Indonesia
First Name
Ersan Al Amin
Drive
Year 2000 EA5A => FL EC5A
Just use the clock buttons and wire those into the UTCOMP. They function the same way - shared ground with multiple buttons.

any update on stock injector calibration? i think current injector calibration doesn't seems correct. a lot difference between remain gasoline and refuelling about 12 liter. let say the remain fuel is 18 liter and refueling is need 30 liter up to fully tanked up. will check again this week
 

Kaldek

2 AYC Bars
Premium Member
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Ed
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
any update on stock injector calibration? i think current injector calibration doesn't seems correct. a lot difference between remain gasoline and refuelling about 12 liter. let say the remain fuel is 18 liter and refueling is need 30 liter up to fully tanked up. will check again this week
No update, mine is working great. Just did a 360km drive and when I filled up it was off by less than 1 litre.
 
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