ersanalamin
Leaving Skid Marks
One more logo added for those that wanted "Legnum VR4" to appear on screen.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4312450/VR4 LOGO.zip
BTW how comp my utcomp still wont read your logo?
One more logo added for those that wanted "Legnum VR4" to appear on screen.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4312450/VR4 LOGO.zip
I'll ask my brother but he's back into crunch week at the magazine. He won't have time for a while.Hi Ed i like it could you please make it for galant vr4 with clear background and grey for the font? Pleaseeeeee
You need to decompress the zip files so there is a folder with the BMP files in it. the UTCOMP application needs to be able to access the folder, not the zip file.BTW how comp my utcomp still wont read your logo?
You need to decompress the zip files so there is a folder with the BMP files in it. the UTCOMP application needs to be able to access the folder, not the zip file.
You must be doing the same thing wrong that @trotty was. Here is a video that shows what to do.Sure dude. But utcomp still wont read it, any chance i have to edit ur logo? What software should we use? Windows Bitmap?
Great work Ed! I have an LC-1 for my white LeggyFitted the UTCOMP to @UNARMD 's Galant today. Took a bit longer than expected though and I discovered a slight problem with the wiring. I'll reflect that change in my previous posts.
Something else we learned today was that an Innovate LC-1 wideband controller can be used to provide an input into the UTCOMP for monitoring Air/Fuel ratios. To do this you need to connect the brown wire coming from the LC-1 to a spare ADC input on the UTCOMP.
The calibration data for the LC-1 is:
a= 3.01 b= 7.35
Hi Ed i like it could you please make it for galant vr4 with clear background and grey for the font? Pleaseeeeee
someone in syd help me install this complete noob and too scared to splice into ecu and such
Posi-Tap is indeed how I am now tapping into the ECU wires. However, you need to buy the smallest Posi-Tap available which is designed for 24-26 AWG wire. The larger the AWG number the smaller the wire, and these wires are pretty small. If you don't buy the right size, the Posi-Tap won't pierce the insulation of the wire.
The ones you want look like this:
Having just done my second installation, I definitely have to describe it as a labour intensive job, especially if you are adding additional sensors like oil pressure/temp and boost. @UNARMD arrived at my place at 9am and we finished around 3pm I guess. Taking back time we had to spend on diagnosing a problem, and the additional time for installing boost and oil pressure/temperature, I could knock out an install for a basic setup in about three hours (not including clock dremel work which I did in advance. Add half an hour for that).
Step one really is using a Dremel to work on the clock mount to get the screen installed. I think if that was the only remaining thing that worried you, I'll happily do it for you via post. That being, you mail me your clock and I modify it for you then post it back for a small fee.
I put the UTCOMP LCD in the middle of digital clock housing. no room for 3 switch hence i put it on left lower side speedometer shroud following the tomazs guidance at clubvr4.com.
Just use the clock buttons and wire those into the UTCOMP. They function the same way - shared ground with multiple buttons.
No update, mine is working great. Just did a 360km drive and when I filled up it was off by less than 1 litre.any update on stock injector calibration? i think current injector calibration doesn't seems correct. a lot difference between remain gasoline and refuelling about 12 liter. let say the remain fuel is 18 liter and refueling is need 30 liter up to fully tanked up. will check again this week