Just had a set of federals 959(225/40/18) fitted, but they dont know what camber, tow ect is needed for a legnum(dont show on there system), can anyone tell what the correct aligment figures are, so that i can tell them,and they can do the aligment.
Wheel Alignment
- Thread starter vr4nv
- Start date
Paul these are the factory setting as translated for Japanese Service Manual
Wheel Alignment Specifications
VR4 Front Suspension Alignment Specifications
Toe In = 0mm ± 3mm
Camber = 0°00' ± 30' (difference left to right to be within 30')
Caster = 4°20' ± 1'-30' (difference left to right to be within 30')
Side Slip = ± 0mm-3mm
Upper Ball Joint rotary starting torque = 0.3Nm - 1.5Nm
Compression Lower Arm Ball Joint rotary starting torque = 0.5Nm - 2.5Nm
Lateral Lower Arm Ball Joint rotary starting torque = Below 1.5Nm
Stabilizer Link Ball Joint rotary starting torque = 0.5Nm - 1.5Nm
VR4 Rear Suspension Alignment Specifications
Toe In = 3mm ± 3mm
Camber = -1°00' ± 30' (difference left to right to be within 30')
Trust Angular = 0°00' to ± 9'
Toe Rocker Arm Ball Joint rotary torque = 1.0Nm - 2.6Nm
Stabilizer Link Ball Joint rotary torque = 0.5Nm - 1.5nm
Wheel Alignment Specifications
VR4 Front Suspension Alignment Specifications
Toe In = 0mm ± 3mm
Camber = 0°00' ± 30' (difference left to right to be within 30')
Caster = 4°20' ± 1'-30' (difference left to right to be within 30')
Side Slip = ± 0mm-3mm
Upper Ball Joint rotary starting torque = 0.3Nm - 1.5Nm
Compression Lower Arm Ball Joint rotary starting torque = 0.5Nm - 2.5Nm
Lateral Lower Arm Ball Joint rotary starting torque = Below 1.5Nm
Stabilizer Link Ball Joint rotary starting torque = 0.5Nm - 1.5Nm
VR4 Rear Suspension Alignment Specifications
Toe In = 3mm ± 3mm
Camber = -1°00' ± 30' (difference left to right to be within 30')
Trust Angular = 0°00' to ± 9'
Toe Rocker Arm Ball Joint rotary torque = 1.0Nm - 2.6Nm
Stabilizer Link Ball Joint rotary torque = 0.5Nm - 1.5nm
Paul, just remember these are the factory setting, if you have suspension mod's (lowered springs / coilovers / etc) these spec's need to be tweaked slightly !!
godzilla
1 AYC Bar
- Location
- QLD / Tweed Coast
- First Name
- Trevor
- Drive
- 1/19 2002 FL Legnum Type 'S' Manual in Black with Suede Recaro's!
Hey all the wheel alignment guru's. Can someone analyze my specs from today and tell me if all looks OK? Feels like it is pulling slightly to the left at 100k's
front toe ok, front camber pushing left, front castor not too bad rear toe shit, lots of camber in rear try too at least keep these the same, well theres my in put
godzilla
1 AYC Bar
- Location
- QLD / Tweed Coast
- First Name
- Trevor
- Drive
- 1/19 2002 FL Legnum Type 'S' Manual in Black with Suede Recaro's!
Why would the rear be so bad?
Has nearly 4mm toe in, Rear cambers will wear about a inch of the inside edge on rear tyres. Right rear posibly more ,Now i havn't done a w/a on a legnum but ive done millions of everything else, and i learnt how to match the numbers equally, Unless your doing a bit of trackwork you dont need so much rear camber, Right rear is at nearly 3 degrees - (leaning in) With out actualy my self doing w/a I can't really give you advise on how to go about fixing it cause i cant see it, and knowing what is ajusterble and what isn't ect, There are a lot of suspension options out there to fix just about any w/a problems (shims,bushess ,arms ect you just need a good w/a to steer you in the right direction, but they are hard to find these days.
Looking at what your numbers are now i would try to set it like this, Front toe 0.5mm +( toe in),Camber 0.90- deg( left and right), In doing so castor should come about the same if not have a little more + on left which is ok, As for the rear if posible, 1.5 -deg camber, Toe 0.5mm +(left and right) Thrust should still stay 0. This is what i would try to do for everyday road use.
Looking at what your numbers are now i would try to set it like this, Front toe 0.5mm +( toe in),Camber 0.90- deg( left and right), In doing so castor should come about the same if not have a little more + on left which is ok, As for the rear if posible, 1.5 -deg camber, Toe 0.5mm +(left and right) Thrust should still stay 0. This is what i would try to do for everyday road use.
mookers
puri puri
- Location
- Frankston, Melbourne, VIC
- First Name
- Derek
- Drive
- CL9 Accord Euro Lux, GE Jazz VTi, Evil Supervillain Chair, Homemade Portable Square Drumkit
Shane, just a small request - you've obviously got some good input to share with the forum, but your posts are really hard to read. Could you please try to put some more punctuation and sentence structure in your writing?
Thanks
Thanks
sory about that my schooling wasnt verry good , will try harder, next time,
Shane, just a small request - you've obviously got some good input to share with the forum, but your posts are really hard to read. Could you please try to put some more punctuation and sentence structure in your writing?
Thanks
G
Guest
Unregistered
Yeah, that post was a bit of a tough read but worth it in the end.
At the least, capital letters and full stops every now and then would make it easier on the brain.
At the least, capital letters and full stops every now and then would make it easier on the brain.
Post grammer fixed up, should make it easier to read now fellas. sorry
Has nearly 4mm toe in, Rear cambers will wear about a inch of the inside edge on rear tyres. Right rear posibly more ,Now i havn't done a w/a on a legnum but ive done millions of everything else, and i learnt how to match the numbers equally, Unless your doing a bit of trackwork you dont need so much rear camber, Right rear is at nearly 3 degrees - (leaning in) With out actualy my self doing w/a I can't really give you advise on how to go about fixing it cause i cant see it, and knowing what is ajusterble and what isn't ect, There are a lot of suspension options out there to fix just about any w/a problems (shims,bushess ,arms ect you just need a good w/a to steer you in the right direction, but they are hard to find these days.
Looking at what your numbers are now i would try to set it like this, Front toe 0.5mm +( toe in),Camber 0.90- deg( left and right), In doing so castor should come about the same if not have a little more + on left which is ok, As for the rear if posible, 1.5 -deg camber, Toe 0.5mm +(left and right) Thrust should still stay 0. This is what i would try to do for everyday road use.
mookers
puri puri
- Location
- Frankston, Melbourne, VIC
- First Name
- Derek
- Drive
- CL9 Accord Euro Lux, GE Jazz VTi, Evil Supervillain Chair, Homemade Portable Square Drumkit
It's a good start; a bit easier to read. Keep practising (plenty of good examples on this forum)
godzilla
1 AYC Bar
- Location
- QLD / Tweed Coast
- First Name
- Trevor
- Drive
- 1/19 2002 FL Legnum Type 'S' Manual in Black with Suede Recaro's!
Has nearly 4mm toe in, Rear cambers will wear about a inch of the inside edge on rear tyres. Right rear posibly more ,Now i havn't done a w/a on a legnum but ive done millions of everything else, and i learnt how to match the numbers equally, Unless your doing a bit of trackwork you dont need so much rear camber, Right rear is at nearly 3 degrees - (leaning in) With out actualy my self doing w/a I can't really give you advise on how to go about fixing it cause i cant see it, and knowing what is ajusterble and what isn't ect, There are a lot of suspension options out there to fix just about any w/a problems (shims,bushess ,arms ect you just need a good w/a to steer you in the right direction, but they are hard to find these days.
Looking at what your numbers are now i would try to set it like this, Front toe 0.5mm +( toe in),Camber 0.90- deg( left and right), In doing so castor should come about the same if not have a little more + on left which is ok, As for the rear if posible, 1.5 -deg camber, Toe 0.5mm +(left and right) Thrust should still stay 0. This is what i would try to do for everyday road use.
Thanks mate
Yeah, i got the gear required for my rear camber fix today. I will attempt to install this weekend (After some flair trimming)
The front i cannot do anything about. I am happy with how it is.
Still pulling to the left a fraction. I am unsure why at this stage.
Thanks for the info
godzilla
1 AYC Bar
- Location
- QLD / Tweed Coast
- First Name
- Trevor
- Drive
- 1/19 2002 FL Legnum Type 'S' Manual in Black with Suede Recaro's!
Mate I can tell you you cannot. Only the rears can be packed out.
- Location
- NSW
- First Name
- Steve
- Drive
- 2010 nt did pajero tow car / 2000 6spd gc8 wrx tarmac rally car / 2000 Manual Subaru Outback 2.5 just a car
I'm only going from memory so I could be wrong but why not a concentric bolt on the upper arm? Trev is it definitely sitting level? Just curious about the camber difference and I notice both the right are more than the left.... A Legnum is heaviest on the right rear but the left front, unless you're sitting in it....
And you're toeing in on the front, bugger that, I'll go 0 or even -1mm toe out, turns in better then, although Shane would say more tyre wear but I'll take the turn in. I'd go zero toe on the back, 3.5mm toe in is just silly, toe it out if you want it to oversteer more as well but again tyre wear, and there are better ways to make it oversteer.
Mine is set up as follows (and this is more track focused than road)
Front:
1mm toe out (-1mm)
-0.75 degrees negative camber (multilink makes this enough negative)
whatever factory castor is because I can't change it but they were both the same
Rear:
0 toe
-1.5 degrees negative camber (which will be reduced to -1 degree shortly)
same deal with castor.
Suits me fine.
I imagine your castor difference is the cause of the left pulling but Shane probably knows that better than me, I just get them the same and don't worry then
And you're toeing in on the front, bugger that, I'll go 0 or even -1mm toe out, turns in better then, although Shane would say more tyre wear but I'll take the turn in. I'd go zero toe on the back, 3.5mm toe in is just silly, toe it out if you want it to oversteer more as well but again tyre wear, and there are better ways to make it oversteer.
Mine is set up as follows (and this is more track focused than road)
Front:
1mm toe out (-1mm)
-0.75 degrees negative camber (multilink makes this enough negative)
whatever factory castor is because I can't change it but they were both the same
Rear:
0 toe
-1.5 degrees negative camber (which will be reduced to -1 degree shortly)
same deal with castor.
Suits me fine.
I imagine your castor difference is the cause of the left pulling but Shane probably knows that better than me, I just get them the same and don't worry then
Similar threads
