Why pod filters are crap and why you shouldn't run one, and some cool diag stuff too!

[Guest]

Found this somewhat amusing, all that technology, and yet it wasn't needed, interesting enough though

 

[bradc]

That is awesome

That would have been picked up via EVO scan as well and been fairly easy to see. I'm also going to change the thread title to make it easier to find.

Just another reason why pods are shit. Poorly made ones can break like that one, and well made ones just make you lose power and use more fuel.

 

[Guest]

wow interesting,lookslike a redline filter or somehting lol

 

[Peter_D]

The moral of the story is if your using a POD filter smooth out the airflow before it impacts on the sensor and don't be bloody lazy clean your filters regularly. You never know what crap you'll find caught up in them.

 

[BuzzPuppy]

For these particular cars. Nice find there Sean, definite rep points your way.

Whose car was it?

 

[Tom]

Haha yeah I went back to my stock box after being told numerous times how bad pods were

 

[steveP]

i just read the whole article; and let me get this right..

some guy had a cheap, generic and BROKEN pod filter on his already problem-riden vr4, which we all know have very tempremental air flow metres, and now ALL pod filters on ALL cars regardless of quality and design, fall under the 'crap' umbrella.

riiiiiight!

 

[Goku]

Pods are only bad if they are installed directly into the engine bay with no cold air box sealing them from the heat.
They are a perfectly good mod otherwise.

 

[godzilla]

Kayne, only if the air has time to "straighten" up before it hits the MAF. Its not just the heat that causes probs with Pods on a VR4 it's also the turbulence they cause.

 

[unclepaulie]

how bout this:

 

[steveP]

if u want a pod on ur vr4 or mitsubishi for that matter, just get a K&N rampod which complies with our air flow metre. i got one and the car has been running flawlessly for 6 months with it.

the major pro/con of a pod is air flow and heat. the pod will allow more air to flow, but just take precautions to sheild it from the engine bay heat.

 

[Tom]

If Pods were really THAT crappy of a mod, they wouldn't be so widely used in a lot of circumstances.. Just, they're not the best mod for OUR cars..

Unless, like Steve said, you get one that properly complies with our cars and they're shielded..

So I guess what's been said in here/title is being intended for VR4s and not just in general

 

[Guest]

This thread begs the question. At what point does the stock airbox with a good panel filter not flow enough?

 

[godzilla]

This thread begs the question. At what point does the stock airbox with a good panel filter not flow enough?

Most of us wont ever have to worry about that. The stock airbox with a good quality panel should do us to the stage we look for larger turbo's.

 

[Tom]

After that then something like the ARC Airbox with a nice flow would be a good addition?

Like in Chris's (um318r)

 

[Guest]

Trevor: That's what I thought...

Tom: Unless that hat some sort of CAI (I think he does) and decent insulation from the enginebay heat (not so much) then it's still going to be sucking in hot air...

 

[steveP]

honestly i would rather ditch the air flow metre all together and run an aftermarket computer. then u run a pod of each turbo and shield them in a custom box like shown.

 

[Tom]

Tom: Unless that hat some sort of CAI (I think he does) and decent insulation from the enginebay heat (not so much) then it's still going to be sucking in hot air...

Yeah he does have one, that pic is older but last time I saw his car he had one

 

[Peter_D]

Hang on guys. Pod filters are OK you just have to pick your application. The K&N OVAL filter designed for the Mitsu air flow sensors are also OK for the Legnum/Galant VR4 range of cars. I don't know how they would go on say a R32.

As I pointed out in my earlier post and this information can be verified by searching the forum as this has been covered before, you can use a GOOD quality low interference pod filter on your VR4. BUT the air impacting on the air flow sensor MUST be evened out and must not be swirling around. The best way to do so is to move the pod away from the sensor by using extension bit. I have even seen someone use some PVC pipe. What ever you use must be around (I think) 8 inches in length and be able to withstand substantial air vacuum pressure. Don't use a coke can, yes I have seen it before, as it will implode due to the vacuum. That guy ended up using a fruit tin and it worked. Although the gaffer tape looked pretty shitty.

 

[BuzzPuppy]

Vaguely, I remember seeing a formula relating airflow (cm^3), diameter of pipe and ideal inlet pipe length for the airflow to smooth out. That distance meant that the battery had to be relocated.

Was it on CVR4 somewhere? (goes searching)