6A13TT Engine rebuild

jungle

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Thanks, Tim! Roll on 500km for the first oil check!!
 

Fully

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New Zealand
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Shane
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99 Galant VR4
Why are you not doing the easy break in?

Theres a very small window to get the seals to seal really well -the first 32km!
 

jungle

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Why are you not doing the easy break in?

Theres a very small window to get the seals to seal really well -the first 32km!

32km, really so where TF did that number come from???
Which seals are you talking about?

I use a completely different run in to most people, this is essentially what i do. Has worked very well for my last 2 engines & it will be the same with this one.
I've been doing this for years, first time back in 2005.
Found this website last year...
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 

SLY-031

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South Australia
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Joel
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VR-4 Legnum
32km is 20 miles, as written in that link you listed.

"The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!
If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice,
which is why more engines don't have this problem !!

An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike pretty hard on the "test run". So, without realizing it, that adrenaline crazed set - up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !!"
 

jungle

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Driving past a servo today, couldn't resist so i pulled in an filled it up. 357km 39 litres 9.1km/L or 10.98L/100km I think that's a pretty decent effort first up considering it've been driving it hard during run in.

Dropping the oil and cutting open the filter tomorrow.
 

jungle

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Dropped the oil this arvo. Cut the filter open............ALL GOOD!!!
So now got a semi sythetic. Be interesting to see this tanks economy. My wife will be driving it from tomorrow so we'll see how it goes.

I've also taken the ignition back to factory on the Haltech. I'll keep it at 6psi for another 1000km then i'll take it in to get the tune touched up and wind the boost back to 12psi.
Otherwise, clutch is great!

Engine has a slight vibration from 1600-1800rpm that clearly the harder engine mounts trasnfer to the cockpit whereas the factory mounts absorbed but other than that, all is going very nicely:p

Hey anyone know where i can get new tie rod ends??? Took it for a wheel alignment this arvo and the drivers one is just crap, passenger is ok but i'll change it as well
Cheers
 

timmae2006

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WA
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Tim Dev
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2000 Mitsibishi Legnum
My clutch is superb too!!! I got my rod ends from camskill although there is mention on here about repco stocking them
 

godzilla

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QLD / Tweed Coast
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Trevor
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1/19 2002 FL Legnum Type 'S' Manual in Black with Suede Recaro's!
Hey anyone know where i can get new tie rod ends??? Took it for a wheel alignment this arvo and the drivers one is just crap, passenger is ok but i'll change it as well
Cheers

I got THIS kit personally but if you just want the tie rod ends then the Roadsafe brand, part No. TE3612R will do the job. They are available from Repco etc, as Tim referred to, for around $15/pr
 

jungle

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Fantastic, thanks Trevor!!:D

Great news Tim!
 

jungle

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Bad wording on my part, i mean rack ends- anyone have any idea??:sad:

On another note, I took the ignition advance i had in the Haltech out this morning until i could get to my tuners to touch it up correctly. Had nothing but trouble on the way to work with the engine light coming on and the same old problem the interceptor used to have..... so called my tuner and he made room for me so down i went.

Filled the car up on the way down, returned 10km/L

In the end, the problem is fixed, changed 2 settings and fixed it instantly.
Now on to the tune. Did it at wastegate pressure first which is the green lines below.

The Red line is the current tune and pink was the original tune in Dec 2008.

Nice power curves now. So the end, result is still the same power/torque but on 1psi less. There is plenty more available but I wasn't interested in running more boost. The car has plenty of go.

What was interesting was when we first reconnected the boost controller- the first run was aborted as it was running 15psi. We saw 175kW at ~4300, so if it kept that gain from 12psi, would have seen close to 200kW. not bad for 15psi:cool:

Anyway, here are the graphs.
IMG_0725.jpg
IMG_0726.jpg
IMG_0727.jpg
 

jungle

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Yer thanks Trevor, not for much longer, I'm getting out- last day of work 17 December!!!
 

bradc

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New Zealand
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Brad
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Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
Interesting, from 6000 to 7000rpm your boost levels are the same and you make a lot more power. Before 6000rpm you make less boost now but about the same amount of power.
 
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