bolt on turbo upgrades?

bradc

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Brad
Drive
Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
The Galant they are referring to is the USDM Galants which are COMPLETELY different to ours. And as Josh said, that kit is a pile of crap and nothing will fit. It is just a collection of pipes and a turbo.
 

frozen

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Queensland
First Name
Josh
Drive
1990 Mitsubishi GTO
Formerly: 1996 Galant VR-4
rofl -
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Light weight design. Made from Aluminum.(Increase 10-20 HP).
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PSi Drop under 0.2. Other Intercooler usually drop 10Psi Some are More

anything that makes those claims.. you cant trust.
 

djb160

Leaving Skid Marks
Lifetime Member
Location
NZ, Wellington
First Name
Dale
Drive
Legnum VR4 "Grimace"
Nissan Leaf
just out of curiousity, does anyone know of some Garrett <-> Mitsubishi comparisons (e.g. various TD04s <-> gt25's gt28's, etc). The attraction of garretts is there flow charts for everything. It's a bit hit and miss with mitsubishi charts.
 

djb160

Leaving Skid Marks
Lifetime Member
Location
NZ, Wellington
First Name
Dale
Drive
Legnum VR4 "Grimace"
Nissan Leaf
not that I remember, I'll go nosey there now - ta brad (go to bed, you have to get up early for a drive dont you?)
 

bradc

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Brad
Drive
Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
I get up at 5:40 every week day, and do up to 200km of driving everyday, tomorrow I'm waking up at 6:20, I reckon that counts as a sleep in!
 

djb160

Leaving Skid Marks
Lifetime Member
Location
NZ, Wellington
First Name
Dale
Drive
Legnum VR4 "Grimace"
Nissan Leaf
fair enough. Just had a look on 316. I have been over that site a couple of times. Might have to do some conversion/comparison work. Any sorry the the OP I'll stop thread taxing now, many apologies.
 

jet150

Anyone thirsty?
Premium Member
Location
victoria
First Name
Rob
Drive
VR4
Hey people just an update a while ago I posted that I now have a pair of GARRETT GT2554R's.
Correction now I have a pair of GT2854R's. The boys at ROTA MASTER machined and replaced all the internals of my turbos.

Pics will be posted later.
 

Madhav

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
WA
First Name
Madhav
Drive
96 S2 RZ Supra with 500whp
So you previously had GT25r's and then you exchanged them for new ones, or they exchanged the internals and upgraded?
 

frozen

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Queensland
First Name
Josh
Drive
1990 Mitsubishi GTO
Formerly: 1996 Galant VR-4
i'd be really keen for some dyno graphs and definately pics :p
 

jet150

Anyone thirsty?
Premium Member
Location
victoria
First Name
Rob
Drive
VR4
So you previously had GT25r's and then you exchanged them for new ones, or they exchanged the internals and upgraded?

I had a GT2554R on order and another with 1000K's on it but Garrett Australia wouldn't have these in stock til January so my supplier got me a GT2854R instead since they use the same housing.
So to make things even the GT2554R that I already had got gutted, machined and fitted with the internals of a GT2854R for $300

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These babies will be installed about March next year.
 

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Madhav

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
WA
First Name
Madhav
Drive
96 S2 RZ Supra with 500whp
You can make some serious power with them, like blow up ur engine power, this is awesome. can't wait to see the spool up time.
 

jet150

Anyone thirsty?
Premium Member
Location
victoria
First Name
Rob
Drive
VR4
Depending on the money situation when they get installed some forged pistons and or conrods will be fitted so I can wind out some big HP.

Damn I wish money grew on trees.
 

Madhav

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
WA
First Name
Madhav
Drive
96 S2 RZ Supra with 500whp
Well I am gonna wind up the boost to about 500hp through the engine and see what happens... valmes managed to get away with it, so with a safe tune and no detonation we will see. KKR280's are rated at 280hp, so theoretically 500hp could be manageable.
 

jungle

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QLD
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Simon
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1 PFL & 1 FL Legnum
so with a safe tune and no detonation .

Madhav, this isn't aimed at you specifically but seeing you've said it here, i'll use yours an an example.

I might put a few noses out of joint with this comment, but i hate it when people say "safe tune". Do you really know what the tuner has done to make it safe?
I guess your first reponse will be, take timing out of it. Thats all well and good but how much timing did he "take out" or more accurately "not put in"

Who the f**k doesn't have a safe tune???? Really, how many times have you seen people say, yer my tunes right on the edge for max power with no headroom:drool:?? Other than drag racers, probably not many.

Do you know what happens with combustion and exhaust/turbine temps when you take timing out of it, or using it's proper term, "retard" the timing? It skyrockets and goes through the roof. You might have heard another term for this....it's called anti lag and if it's retarded enough the combustion no longer takes place in the combustion chamber but in the turbine/ exhaust. I know that that's an extreme example but you get the point?? How much timing do you need to take out of it to do this? depends on the engine and it's bits. Most modern mulitvalve engine will have around 8-12 degrees timing at it's peak torque or point of peak combustion pressure and point of most detonation.

All a "safe tune" is doing, is not maximising the heat generated in the combustion process. The best way to tune and engine is to take it to the limit where detonation starts to get "too much" ( because EVERY ENGINE MUST HAVE SOME DETONATION if it didn't, you wouldn't make any power) But i do admit, the amount of detonation is very small. Back it off 1 maybe 2 degrees again depends on the engine.

Others will say yer i just run rich mixtures. This is another lack in understanding. Making mixtures too rich is no better than a "safe tune".
There are books on this stuff but you just can't keep adding and adding more & more fuel. Without going too far into it, you get to the point where not all the fuel present can be burnt in the combustion time and then the AFR you see on the gauge isn't a true reflection of what the engine ACTUAL AFR is....

Again this isn't an attack but merely an attempt by me to provide some understanding.

BradC- might not be the best thread for this, delete it if you wish, I know the quality of people on www.ozvr4.com may take it on board, other websites would just argue.

over to you guys;)
 

scientist

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
Dominica
First Name
Edmund Robinson
Drive
1989 Galant VR4
You never take an engine to the point where detonation is almost too much. A stock motor car wouldn't last long enough to finish tune at that point.

For me a safe tune is not getting very aggressive on my timing map and a decent AFR where its not too rich but just lean enough to make decent power. (All depends on the gas being used)
 

jungle

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QLD
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Simon
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1 PFL & 1 FL Legnum
You never take an engine to the point where detonation is almost too much. A stock motor car wouldn't last long enough to finish tune at that point.

For me a safe tune is not getting very aggressive on my timing map and a decent AFR where its not too rich but just lean enough to make decent power. (All depends on the gas being used)

Dude, i could have spend ages on that post but shorted it significantly. If you didn't get what i meant by too much then you've missed the point.
 

Madhav

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
WA
First Name
Madhav
Drive
96 S2 RZ Supra with 500whp
It's all above my head simon... and I definitely wouldn't attempt to tune my own car.

TBH for me it's about finding a tuner who firstly I can trust (and believe me when I tell you I have met many who I wouldn't), secondly who has decent experience in tuning, thirdly has a good reputation from people more in the know than me, or in some kind of motorsport scene, and finally doesn't have a history of blowing engines up.
 
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