Boost gauge positioning

marksanne

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
Netherlands
First Name
Mark
Drive
1999 8G VR2 Galant & 1996 8G VR4 Galant
I stole this idea off Mark - Thanks dude =)

Mounted in a piece of 6mm custom wood, with a piece of black leather glued on top, and the guages pressed into the leather. Just kept shaping it until I got it all to fit in with the clock top. The clock top has being filed back to make it a bit flatter.

I was going for 3 * 52mm guages , but dident have the balls to start cutting my dash up, so setted for the 2 of them.

I still need to tidy the wiring up, and wire the dimmer into it as well.

That indeed looks familiar :) When I put this into my LHD VR2 two years ago (and I think put some sort of example for other as I now see it more and more) last year I bought a Legnum VR4 (RHD) and did it all over again for that one too (including the cutting to fit 3 gauges :) ). Glad people like it and use the idea!
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
if your standing at the front of your car, to the very right about 200mm down the firewall is a boot where your main wiring loom passes thru the firewall if you don't want to drill holes thru your firewall this boot can easily be peirced thru and you can feed the hose into it, its not the easiest to fish out but if you remove your glove box it will make life easier
 

montgomery

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Victoria
First Name
Chris
Drive
Mazda Familia GTR
Wow , i dont think i have a post in this thread..

heres my setup..



This is in my glove box....
Shit angle , makes the gauges look all un even..
They are aimed at me so i can see them when needed.

The control box also beeps if there is a problem , ie low oil press etc...
so i can hide them and still hear if theres a problem..

P1000295.jpg



heres the boost gauge..

P1000294.jpg



Only blocks from idle to 2krpm..
and from 150 kph plus..

So yeah , i generally dont look at the speedo at 150+ nor when i take off from the lights.
 

steveP

1 AYC Bar
Location
SA
First Name
Steve
Drive
VR4 Galant
forgot about this thread. just installed my boost gauge after much thought of the best place to put it. ill do a proper write up with pics this weekend.
 

nabassu

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
Poland
First Name
Maciek
Drive
VR-4 TypeS
hmm.. w8 for my mount :) factory style.
plywood thing.. (and next) no comments :/
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
looking at removing my clock and putting it up there. one of the guages with a black screen until its turned on and the light shines threw it . use plywood and get the guys from round the corner to match the cover with the dash .... hmmm wil draw it at some point and see what people thing .. or if u all laugh =.= ;p
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
I'm mounting my gauge in the clock area and need to get +ve ignition and -ve battery electric from somewhere, was planning on using the clock wires - does anyone who has done this already know which wires I need (there is a black, blue, purple and green on the clock connector to choose from).

The gauge is electronic and works off a sensor in the engine bay so also need to get +ve ignition and -ve battery (ok I know that one is easy) here. any recommendations appreciated,

Cheers

Tim
 

Buckas

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
WA
First Name
Dan
Drive
97 manual legnum
i tapped into the clock power. brb


aight here we go:

green- lights
blue- 12v ignition
black- earth
purple- taped up and not used, being a direct battery supply rings a bell when connecting it up


should really get around to making a ply mounting for the guage haha
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
i tapped into the clock power. brb


aight here we go:

green- lights
blue- 12v ignition
black- earth
purple- taped up and not used, being a direct battery supply rings a bell when connecting it up


should really get around to making a ply mounting for the guage haha

Cheers mate, that will save me a bit of dicking around...;)
 

fieldy107

1 AYC Bar
Location
NSW
First Name
Chris
Drive
Galant VR4
Anyone got a photo of where they put the vac line through the firewall? I cant find an opening anywhere
 

steveP

1 AYC Bar
Location
SA
First Name
Steve
Drive
VR4 Galant
^^^ theres a write up on here where to drill it. trust me, i got the wrong spot, and it was VERY wrong.
 

gorgath

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
NSW
First Name
Irwin
Drive
1997 Legnum RED!!!
There is no need for drilling.

Run your vacuum hose through to the right fender. There is a big hole there where all the wirings goes though to the cabin.

For easy access, remove your right wheel, then remove your inner plastic guard. You should see a rubber plug there with those wirings the goes in the cabin, punch a hole by using cross head screw driver (or any pointed sharp thingy), but be very careful doing it as there is a lot of wiring, you don't wanna snap one. Mine is a bit below those wirings.

Once you have done punching a hole, you can now put insert the vacuum hose line. There will be a bit struggle when inserting it as the rubber plug is abit tough but that is ok, because it will seal it around the vacuum hose.


I bet no one thought about this :)
 

steveP

1 AYC Bar
Location
SA
First Name
Steve
Drive
VR4 Galant
ive actually done that to the left guard for all power cables for the amps. its fine for that, but not so good for a boost line as it will require a lot of tubing to make it inside the cabin and then up to the guage. drilling the hole will save about 1metre of tubing and it actually looks very neat. and can be done in under 5 mins.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
You don't even have to drill a hole if you use the grommet for the engine harness.
 

Buckas

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
WA
First Name
Dan
Drive
97 manual legnum
i have my vacuum line running through the rubber grommet into the right fender, then back through the other rubber one into the drivers side area. didnt really wanna drill anything.

for those who mentioned running amp power through the rubber seal on the top right of the engine bay (standing at the front of the car, looking towards back), theres a huge hole right to the side/underneath the battery that runs straight into the LF fender where itll meet the other option but much easier. there are even clips to hold your cabling in place along the fender underneath the plastic guard lining.

obviously this hole is too far away to use for boost lines though
 

Mortz

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Tweed Coast, NSW
First Name
Luke M
Drive
1997 Legnum VR4
I'm starting to get annoyed with my cheap boost gauge I bought as the damn thing doesn't have a knob/switch to adjust brightness and is amazingly bright on the eyes at night. I have it mounted low down on the A pillar and the bright reflection on the windscreen almost drove me nuts on a 6 hour drive the other night. Anyone recommend any good gauges with adjustable brightness settings? I'm also thinking of going a black face gauge to match the Leggies speedo/tach and to help cut down on glare onto the windscreen.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
I'm starting to get annoyed with my cheap boost gauge I bought as the damn thing doesn't have a knob/switch to adjust brightness and is amazingly bright on the eyes at night. I have it mounted low down on the A pillar and the bright reflection on the windscreen almost drove me nuts on a 6 hour drive the other night. Anyone recommend any good gauges with adjustable brightness settings? I'm also thinking of going a black face gauge to match the Leggies speedo/tach and to help cut down on glare onto the windscreen.

Is there any way you can fit a resistor (pref variable) or lower wattage bulb in it? Or even tinting it with film or spray.
 
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