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dion if you dont mind me asking what did you pay for the front hubs, you can pm if you like..
cheers
cheers
J-B
Leaving Skid Marks
Hey dion, where did you get the hub carriers from? do they have any more? 
I may be needing some in the near future
I may be needing some in the near future
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hmmm thats some coin, i think ill just do stock calipers with slotted & cross drilled rottors, good pads and braided lines. i think that will be plenty for what i need..
but good luck to the guys doing this to s1 legnums it will good to see what they are like when done, GAVDANIELS im looking at you to bring me for a ride when all is done..lol
but good luck to the guys doing this to s1 legnums it will good to see what they are like when done, GAVDANIELS im looking at you to bring me for a ride when all is done..lol
mookers
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The guy with the legnum down the street has brembos and 18" wheels. It looks tasty for sure, I assume it stops well!
Just how weak are the stock brakes? Are you guys all upgrading your brakes simply to keep up with your modified engine outputs? Or are the stock brakes actually lacking somehow?
I did a brake upgrade to my old TR Magna with the exact same calipers we have stock with slotted rotors and ran the stock pajero kevlar pads and it was awesome. The stock calipers are fine on the Galants, it's just the pad/rotor combo that is ordinary.
Mitsi make shitty rotors from the factory.
Mitsi make shitty rotors from the factory.
bradc
1 AYC Bar
Yep exactly, I've been in a Legnum with the stock calipers and rotors but upgraded pads, and it stopped fine after 40 continuous minutes of hard driving, it had used about 25 litres of petrol in that time, and the brakes were glowing orange, but it still stopped well!
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so is the brembo upgrade on a facelift '01 legnum, easier than a pre-facelift? less parts etc involved?
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cool. just a matter or remove old and replace with brembo's? basically...give or take a little bit of mucking around?
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nick on this forum had a subaru forester with 190kw at all fours and had stock calipers, slotted rotors and race brakes and it out braked guys with 4pot wrx brakes.. i think that the stock calipers are fine, im just doing braided lines so that i get nice firm braking..
naughtika
OzVR4 Stalker
question about braided lines... I know that if we replace the standard brake hoses with braided S/S ones.. what's the chances of the seals in the pistons popping?
i had Braided S/S Clutch hose in my old galant and after a month the seal inside the slave cylinder popped on me.. I dont think I want that happening with my brakes..
should i replace the piston seals in the same time?
i had Braided S/S Clutch hose in my old galant and after a month the seal inside the slave cylinder popped on me.. I dont think I want that happening with my brakes..
should i replace the piston seals in the same time?
SiliconAngel
1 AYC Bar
Just on the subject of upgrading to Brembo (or any other) calipers, you really have to look at what you're trying to achieve. What will going to bigger calipers, greater surface area with more pistons acutally do for you?
Interestingly I put this question to a couple of friends over the weekend who race and have over 20 year's mecahanical experience each.
Basically you have to ask the question, does the car have adequate brakes to stop itself? If the answer is yes (which it is) then what else are you trying to achieve? If you have larger calipers you'll just require less force to get the same braking pressure. The same with more pistons (although these have the additional advantage of distributing the braking load more evenly across the pads).
If you push the brakes and you can't get the car to skid, then you need more braking pressure. As long as you have adequate braking ability to go from slight pressure to complete wheel lockup, then your calipers are fine. Slowing of the vehicle then becomes a function of rim and tyre design and road conditions.
A common brake problem people want to eliminate is failure while racing due to heating the brakes up to the point where the brake fluid evaporates in the line. This can be fixed by improved pad material - softer pads are fine for daily road driving and are less prone to squeal, but they heat up too fast when under pressure. Going to a good semi-race pad will completely change your braking performance under consistently hard, repetitive braking conditions.
A problem with harder pads that are regularly heated from excessive braking force is glazing - glazed brake pads will slip on the rotor surface, which is a Bad Thing. This is where slotted rotors come in - the slots help by skimming the top layer off the pads, keeping them from glazing. Drilled rotors help by improving cooling efficiency, keeping the heat down under consistently heavy braking.
So in summary you'll get the same performance out of upgraded pads with a set of slotted and drilled rotors as you would from upgrading to brembos with the same pads and appropriately matched rotors. The only difference is you'll need a bit less pressure on the brake pedal to get the same braking performance.
Interestingly I put this question to a couple of friends over the weekend who race and have over 20 year's mecahanical experience each.
Basically you have to ask the question, does the car have adequate brakes to stop itself? If the answer is yes (which it is) then what else are you trying to achieve? If you have larger calipers you'll just require less force to get the same braking pressure. The same with more pistons (although these have the additional advantage of distributing the braking load more evenly across the pads).
If you push the brakes and you can't get the car to skid, then you need more braking pressure. As long as you have adequate braking ability to go from slight pressure to complete wheel lockup, then your calipers are fine. Slowing of the vehicle then becomes a function of rim and tyre design and road conditions.
A common brake problem people want to eliminate is failure while racing due to heating the brakes up to the point where the brake fluid evaporates in the line. This can be fixed by improved pad material - softer pads are fine for daily road driving and are less prone to squeal, but they heat up too fast when under pressure. Going to a good semi-race pad will completely change your braking performance under consistently hard, repetitive braking conditions.
A problem with harder pads that are regularly heated from excessive braking force is glazing - glazed brake pads will slip on the rotor surface, which is a Bad Thing. This is where slotted rotors come in - the slots help by skimming the top layer off the pads, keeping them from glazing. Drilled rotors help by improving cooling efficiency, keeping the heat down under consistently heavy braking.
So in summary you'll get the same performance out of upgraded pads with a set of slotted and drilled rotors as you would from upgrading to brembos with the same pads and appropriately matched rotors. The only difference is you'll need a bit less pressure on the brake pedal to get the same braking performance.
larger pad to rotor contact area (read Brembos) will also mean less heat generation, which is why larger brakes are always recommended for circuit work, however on the flipside.......larger rotors = more rotating mass which will hurt acceleration.
ABS? No skiddies..
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brembos' look better lol. nah j/k. the leggie will see a little bit of track use everynow and then.
SiliconAngel
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Good point Trav, forgot to mention that
You can still get a car with ABS to skid Andy - it just won't skid very far
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I can see your point there (very good point) but if you have brembo's with upgraded pads and rotors then your going to stop a few meters less than the standard upgraded brakes which in some cases can save you from hitting something or the unexpected. Every meter counts with braking. Brembo's would also stay cooler for longer.
Just remember if you get really good new pads on the stock rotors then the hard pads will probably chew up the rotors a lot faster.
Another example DBA 5000 rotors take a lot longer to warm up so they probably not recomended for normal evey day driving.
Increasing boost and performace, going faster in a shorter amount of time then again brembo's/larger brake setup will make a good difference, less stoping distance, more G's pulled with more aggressive brakes.
I think the stock brakes are poor for the power of these cars, and I think we would all recomend upgraded stock pads and rotors if you like to drive hard sometime otherwise if you like taking it easy most of the time you should be fine with stock ones.
Just remember if you get really good new pads on the stock rotors then the hard pads will probably chew up the rotors a lot faster.
Another example DBA 5000 rotors take a lot longer to warm up so they probably not recomended for normal evey day driving.
Increasing boost and performace, going faster in a shorter amount of time then again brembo's/larger brake setup will make a good difference, less stoping distance, more G's pulled with more aggressive brakes.
I think the stock brakes are poor for the power of these cars, and I think we would all recomend upgraded stock pads and rotors if you like to drive hard sometime otherwise if you like taking it easy most of the time you should be fine with stock ones.
