Props for the write-up. Thought I would add my 2c on font components. Focal 165KR's fit in the front doors with ease. Also the tweeters can be easily mounted within the OEM tweeter housing, as long as you remove the driver from the focal surround (out of the packet).
Car Audio Basics
- Thread starter Poita
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #44
No idea! Brands/Models would help
How are you mounting your subs?
How many channels is the amp for your speakers? What Wrms per channel?
But the basic concept is good. Personal preference would be a single 10" or 12" sub, but that's just me. If you like letting the next neighbourhood know you are coming, twins are good.
No idea! Brands/Models would help
How are you mounting your subs?
How many channels is the amp for your speakers? What Wrms per channel?
But the basic concept is good. Personal preference would be a single 10" or 12" sub, but that's just me. If you like letting the next neighbourhood know you are coming, twins are good.
What he said..... On all counts haha
CANDEE
Leaving Skid Marks
one sub can be louder than a pair... its all about the right set up.
- Thread starter
- #47
That is true, but what do you mean by louder?
It's about the surface area of air being pushed. Two 10" subs will push more air than one 12" sub so the sound will travel further, BUT the single 12" may be louder in the car than the twin 10" setup depending on the box setup etc. So a single 12" will still go very loud inside the car but the sound won't travel as far as two 10s due to the smaller overall amount of air being displaced. The 12 can also play lower (again specs dependant but general rule of thumb)
i.e. I do a bit of PA installs. Trying to explain to people that they are better off with say 4 bigger drivers than 10 smaller ones is hard. To get the sound to travel a long distance or fill a large room you need to shift large volumes of air. 10 small speakers can do this but it takes a lot more power to do it, so the amp has to work harder. 4 bigger drivers will do the same job but need a lot less power.
It's about the surface area of air being pushed. Two 10" subs will push more air than one 12" sub so the sound will travel further, BUT the single 12" may be louder in the car than the twin 10" setup depending on the box setup etc. So a single 12" will still go very loud inside the car but the sound won't travel as far as two 10s due to the smaller overall amount of air being displaced. The 12 can also play lower (again specs dependant but general rule of thumb)
i.e. I do a bit of PA installs. Trying to explain to people that they are better off with say 4 bigger drivers than 10 smaller ones is hard. To get the sound to travel a long distance or fill a large room you need to shift large volumes of air. 10 small speakers can do this but it takes a lot more power to do it, so the amp has to work harder. 4 bigger drivers will do the same job but need a lot less power.
CANDEE
Leaving Skid Marks
I used to do soundoff's so we got to have some fun... lol My old leggies pb was 141.6db @42hz, with 1 12" in a box that wasnt tuned correctly, 3000rms running off 4awg running off a 350ish cca battery.. lol
By loud I mean sound pressure levels in the car.... Most people want to feel the bass as well as hear it....
If all factors are equal(power, same type of boxes), a single sub should be louder than twins, even with the +3db effect of the extra cone area..... You only gain with the twins by upping the power up to make up for the extra power drain...
By loud I mean sound pressure levels in the car.... Most people want to feel the bass as well as hear it....
If all factors are equal(power, same type of boxes), a single sub should be louder than twins, even with the +3db effect of the extra cone area..... You only gain with the twins by upping the power up to make up for the extra power drain...
CANDEE
Leaving Skid Marks
I was only doing 5-10 second burps so wasnt that much strain... Went for a bit of a blat in between runs so i could charge the battery.. lol We only put the system together the night before on a whim too.. only lost by 0.1db..
In my last set up, i had 1 12" in a properly set up box(low tuned) with about 500rms, 2awg and a yellowtop optima, and got 136.8db @ 42hz, which was a pretty good effort. I even turned the gains on the amp on the termlab between runs. Even had the amp bridged @ 2 ohms, when it was only rated at 4.. lol
In my last set up, i had 1 12" in a properly set up box(low tuned) with about 500rms, 2awg and a yellowtop optima, and got 136.8db @ 42hz, which was a pretty good effort.
I even turned the gains on the amp on the termlab between runs. Even had the amp bridged @ 2 ohms, when it was only rated at 4.. lol- Thread starter
- #51
Never measured mine, wish i had... Same as you, yellow optima, 2awg, 1000wrms amp and a 12" Vibe Blackair II in a sealed box. Ported would have gone louder, but I like the tight response of a sealed box. Still with a heavy bass track and a current meter over the 2awg cable I would be pulling 40amps
Thanks for the posts, I have a system ready to fit, just need some time bought it 12 months ago... got all Alpine
Head unit Thinks its IDA -X305S
Amp PDF F6
Splits SPX-17 REF 6.5 inch
Sub amp MRP-M500
Sub 12inch SWR 1243D
And Dynamat.
Was going to take it to the local autobarn but might do some more investigating...
Head unit Thinks its IDA -X305S
Amp PDF F6
Splits SPX-17 REF 6.5 inch
Sub amp MRP-M500
Sub 12inch SWR 1243D
And Dynamat.
Was going to take it to the local autobarn but might do some more investigating...
leggei007
Leaving Skid Marks
Im still building up mine but what i have is,
Head unit - Mongoose Q222, DVD/sat nav. reverse camera
Speakers - Rockford Fosgate P1652s n P1S652
Amps - P400-1 x 2 n P500-4
Subs - P3SD104 x 2
Headrests monitors are Option Audio 9 inch dvd
Dynamat is being put thru out the car including under the carpet n roof
All this is running off the factory battery with extra battery going in the boot, which both are dry cell, and 4gauge cable from front to back with an isolator to ensure the front battery will still start the car. If u tune the sound properly then it will work efficiently without distortion or overheating of the amps, plus I feel that a single dual voice coil sub does a great job, but if u can only get a single voice coil then I would recommend to have a pair but have an amp that will run them both
Head unit - Mongoose Q222, DVD/sat nav. reverse camera
Speakers - Rockford Fosgate P1652s n P1S652
Amps - P400-1 x 2 n P500-4
Subs - P3SD104 x 2
Headrests monitors are Option Audio 9 inch dvd
Dynamat is being put thru out the car including under the carpet n roof
All this is running off the factory battery with extra battery going in the boot, which both are dry cell, and 4gauge cable from front to back with an isolator to ensure the front battery will still start the car. If u tune the sound properly then it will work efficiently without distortion or overheating of the amps, plus I feel that a single dual voice coil sub does a great job, but if u can only get a single voice coil then I would recommend to have a pair but have an amp that will run them both
I thought I'd put this here instead of the "what work did you do..." thread since it's more relevant:
Had some spare time this arvo so finally investigated why the front splits (that came with the car, no idea what was in there) sounded so insanely bright since installing a good-sound-quality head unit.
Popped off the door, lo and behold some genius has replaced the factory speaker with an Alpine type-S 2-way co-ax, while retaining the factory tweeter without a crossover. No wonder it sounds like it does. On the plus side, now when I replace the front splits I've got some rear door fillers lined up
Oh and a pleasant surprise was the presence of a fair bit of sound-deadener covering a majority of the guts of the door.
Relation to car audio basics: Don't be a moron! Replace a set of splits with another set of splits, at the least!
Had some spare time this arvo so finally investigated why the front splits (that came with the car, no idea what was in there) sounded so insanely bright since installing a good-sound-quality head unit.
Popped off the door, lo and behold some genius has replaced the factory speaker with an Alpine type-S 2-way co-ax, while retaining the factory tweeter without a crossover. No wonder it sounds like it does. On the plus side, now when I replace the front splits I've got some rear door fillers lined up
Oh and a pleasant surprise was the presence of a fair bit of sound-deadener covering a majority of the guts of the door.
Relation to car audio basics: Don't be a moron! Replace a set of splits with another set of splits, at the least!
Yeah it was surprising to say the least. It does get you out of helping me with the dynamat though
Go have a look! Took me - the world's biggest tool-spastic - maybe 5-10 minutes to take it apart, most of that time was spent trying to remember where the hell the clips were.
Go have a look! Took me - the world's biggest tool-spastic - maybe 5-10 minutes to take it apart, most of that time was spent trying to remember where the hell the clips were.
CANDEE
Leaving Skid Marks
Semi easy fix is to unplug the tweeter on the co-ax..
CANDEE
Leaving Skid Marks
There is never any bad excuse to spend some decent money on components.. lol
Hi all,
I am the proud new owner of a 98 leggie .... I was going to go about putting a sub into her today and stumbled right from word go ... first step with running power cable from battery thru firewall .... where has everyone else gone to get through... im wanting to stay away ... very far away from drilling through ....
Thoughts ??
I am the proud new owner of a 98 leggie .... I was going to go about putting a sub into her today and stumbled right from word go ... first step with running power cable from battery thru firewall .... where has everyone else gone to get through... im wanting to stay away ... very far away from drilling through ....
Thoughts ??
