COIL ON PLUG setup for the VR4

rockit

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
SA
First Name
Robert
Drive
2000 Legnum
Dicksmith dont have any electrical component stuff like that anymore, or if they do its just whatever remaining stock from when they used to..
 

twisted32

Leaving Skid Marks
Lifetime Member
Location
Adelaide
First Name
Rob
Drive
2000 Type S Leggy (toy)
NW Pajero (daily)
You might have more luck asking for environmental sealing heat shrink. I know what we call environmental splices (basically backyard fix for wire crimps on aircraft) are filled with a glue/wax that melts to seal the repair, and protect it from the 'environment'
Having said that, I have not seen it in heat shrink tube form.
 

naughtika

OzVR4 Stalker
Location
Brisbane, QLD
First Name
Christian
Drive
'96 Galant VR4, '17 MB A180, '25 Macan GTS
@Josh, that adhesive was actually in the heatshrink already, I didnt realize it until I heated it up.. I couldn't remove the heatshrink on that connector so I just threw it away..

@Derek & Rodrigo, I haven't looked any further I just went to Jaycar and bought the size I needed.. :)

@Rob, that's probably what's in these, I wonder though if I heat it up again, would it melt again? I hope not..
 

naughtika

OzVR4 Stalker
Location
Brisbane, QLD
First Name
Christian
Drive
'96 Galant VR4, '17 MB A180, '25 Macan GTS
@Josh, that adhesive was actually in the heatshrink already, I didnt realize it until I heated it up.. I couldn't remove the heatshrink on that connector so I just threw it away..

@Derek & Rodrigo, I haven't looked any further I just went to Jaycar and bought the size I needed.. :)

@Rob, that's probably what's in these, I wonder though if I heat it up again, would it melt again? I hope not..
 

sanchez

Leaving Skid Marks
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NSW
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rodrigo
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legnum
Yeh we have it in various sizes at work. Don't worry that glue won't remelt again.
 

naughtika

OzVR4 Stalker
Location
Brisbane, QLD
First Name
Christian
Drive
'96 Galant VR4, '17 MB A180, '25 Macan GTS
couple of trials I did today..

Front Bank...
Showing how the tubes sit on the plate and rocker cover.. and also no, the tubes wont be that long.. that's just a piece I've cut to length so i can pull it out easily.. with the finished product, I should be able to install back the engine cover :)
7f6982f5.jpg



what they look like from inside the tube.. they're almost perfectly lined up
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I'm contemplating on using a hose similar to this for the front bank.. to seal up the rocker cover with the tubes welded on the plate.. but of course the rubber hose would be about 15mm in length.. to fully avoid fluids in getting in..
357dd612.jpg


Rear Bank..

This is with 2 O-Rings that I've acquired
1a0c3af1.jpg


And how the plate sits on it..
8c256d6c.jpg
 

TME_Steve

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
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NSW
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Steve
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2010 nt did pajero tow car / 2000 6spd gc8 wrx tarmac rally car / 2000 Manual Subaru Outback 2.5 just a car
hmmm today was meant to be time on the dyno day to prove these, but I had a bit of a fueling issue as my fuel pump is rapidly on it's way out, and the car got leaner and leaner.... I didn't even get time to do a proper power run.

Apologies to all who have been waiting for results :(

So with help from M0R81U5 I have a walbro to go in tomorrow and all going to plan I should be getting the car on the dyno on Friday.

So today was the day (a day late but who's counting), and the results....

Dyno Testing:
First I ran my current fuel and ignition maps with low (about factory) boost and no changes to anything.
Result, same power (within a kW), no knock (didn't have any anyway).

Second I changed the dwell times to suit the data from the AE86 site
Result, exactly the same

Then I was going to go to a mid setting but that seemed tedious and I was excited so I went up to my max boost setting changing nothing else
Result, As the load came up it misfired and I had to abort the run

So I set the dwell times 1ms longer than what the AE86 site said and it ran fine and I made....
Identical power as if the coil on plug setup was not in.

I raised the dwell times up to our factory settings and made the same power again

Then I thought let's see if I can get any more timing into it (I was excited at this point)
after about 10 runs of trying really hard to get a degree somewhere I realised I couldn't.

Same thing with dwell times 1ms above the AE86 numbers, which is where I have left them (less dwell to save the packs and no misfires, this needs to be resolved completely)

So the end result (despite me REALLY REALLY trying to get a gain) was that there was no measureable power gain with the COP setup

BUT....

These comparisons were done using a 1 week old set of Denso IK22 plugs. The car already felt pretty strong, WAY stronger than it did with the recently tried NGK copper plugs but it's been too long since I drove it with brand new BKR7EIX's so I can't say which is better of those two. How this setup compares on a set of 10000km old plugs would be interesting (I guess I could put my 20000km old iridums back in it but I'm really starting to get sick of changing plugs - getting quite quick at it though :) ) I think is something tht time will be the decider. Gut feel is plug degredation will be the main benefit of the setup but I don't have data to back up that feeling.

I'm concious that other cars I have had, including a 1.8L Audi S3 running 23 psi of boost have never had these spark plug misfire and degredation issues that we have. The only real difference I can see that would affect that is the quality of the spark.

ROAD TESTING:
This was limited to the 2km drive from the dyno to home and all below 60km/h. But it sure feels damn smooth, moreso than it did before but again this is anecdotal as the fuel ratios have been fixed up since a, the fuel pump went in and b, the fuel rail loop to the front bank went in (as a side note, targets are a massive 0.7-0.8 leaner now for the same if not slightly richer actual AFR result, this tells me the fuel rail loop is a real must, we must be running the front bank pretty lean without it!).

I'll let you know how it feels over the coming weeks but I don't remeber it running this smoothly. I won't be on here much over the next week as I have a heap of other things to get done but I will be driving a lot so I'll let you all know how it goes.
 

twisted32

Leaving Skid Marks
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Location
Adelaide
First Name
Rob
Drive
2000 Type S Leggy (toy)
NW Pajero (daily)
Maybe......
Figured you were doing the write up;)

Thanks for the write up Steve.
I should probably get back on the dyno and see how my AFR's are now. Maybe I will have to look at a small turbo tweak before that though:)
 

TME_Steve

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
NSW
First Name
Steve
Drive
2010 nt did pajero tow car / 2000 6spd gc8 wrx tarmac rally car / 2000 Manual Subaru Outback 2.5 just a car
Rich i reckon....
 

AKKO

2 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
WA
First Name
Chris
Drive
1998 Galant VR4 Type-V (Facelift)
this tells me the fuel rail loop is a real must, we must be running the front bank pretty lean without it!

This fuel rail loop you speak of, is it the 3sx part?
 

naughtika

OzVR4 Stalker
Location
Brisbane, QLD
First Name
Christian
Drive
'96 Galant VR4, '17 MB A180, '25 Macan GTS
COIL ON PLUG V.2

decided to install the coils at this position..

front bank
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rear bank
ade281f1.jpg


just some random pics..
185e75e7.jpg

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any suggestions/opinions?
 

unclepaulie

hellatemplate ;)
Lifetime Member
Location
QLD
First Name
Paul
Drive
hairdresser spec lancer coupe
take it off that engine and put it on mine! lol
 
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