Engine Oils - Whats Good/Whats Bad
- Thread starter Outlanded
- Start date
G
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Pete, O.G Rd Speed Shop are cheaper. I think they're about $61 or something. Either way it's around the $60 mark for 5 ltrs.
5ltrs works out well, our cars take something like 4.2 or 4.4ltrs to fill from completely empty so it's always good to have a little left over just for top ups in between services etc, or to use as a flush agent for your next service.
5ltrs works out well, our cars take something like 4.2 or 4.4ltrs to fill from completely empty so it's always good to have a little left over just for top ups in between services etc, or to use as a flush agent for your next service.
G
Guest
Unregistered
Oh and it's also made/owned by penrite as well.
oh so appropriate:
:lol:
:lol:
Repco has oil on special at the moment:
Penrite racing 5w30 $56.95 - Full synthetic SL rating - higher levels of zinc? ~10 KV @ 100C cSt
Castrol Edge Titanium 5w30 $50 - Full synthetic SL rating - higher levels of phospherous ~12 KV @ 100C cSt
Shell Helix 5w40 $42.95 - 'Full synthetic'
Does anyone have any thoughts on the Penrite? I currently have the castrol edge 5w30
Penrite racing 5w30 $56.95 - Full synthetic SL rating - higher levels of zinc? ~10 KV @ 100C cSt
Castrol Edge Titanium 5w30 $50 - Full synthetic SL rating - higher levels of phospherous ~12 KV @ 100C cSt
Shell Helix 5w40 $42.95 - 'Full synthetic'
Does anyone have any thoughts on the Penrite? I currently have the castrol edge 5w30
There is also mobil 1 that looks to be better grade, it's $79.95 for 5L though. Amsoil shoudn't cost much more than that?
godzilla
1 AYC Bar
- Location
- QLD / Tweed Coast
- First Name
- Trevor
- Drive
- 1/19 2002 FL Legnum Type 'S' Manual in Black with Suede Recaro's!
Amsoil is at least $16 a quart. So around $80
Kenneth
1 AYC Bar
Workshop manual oil viscosity ratings
Something on Club VR-4 got me posting the workshop manual specified oil viscosities. A quick look here shows the official thread gives the values that are probably needed for the UK and not Australia.
The values are
-10°C to 40°C or higher = 20W-40
-20°C to 40°C or higher = 10W-30
-30°C or lower to 35°C = 5W-30
I expect that this means that most if not all of Australia should be on 20W-40 grade oil.
Something on Club VR-4 got me posting the workshop manual specified oil viscosities. A quick look here shows the official thread gives the values that are probably needed for the UK and not Australia.
The values are
-10°C to 40°C or higher = 20W-40
-20°C to 40°C or higher = 10W-30
-30°C or lower to 35°C = 5W-30
I expect that this means that most if not all of Australia should be on 20W-40 grade oil.
naughtika
OzVR4 Stalker
20w40? hhmm
i wouldn't mind using 10w30 though or even w40...
i wouldn't mind using 10w30 though or even w40...
Kenneth
1 AYC Bar
I have moved to 10W-40 fully synthetic myself. Time will tell if it works out any better. I have to say that I was getting oil consumption at xxW-30 grade oils, which has always annoyed me because I knew it is grade related. Back in 2004 when I got my first VR-4 I had a cheap source of 20W-50 Mobile1 racing oil. Never used a drop of that.
Kenneth
1 AYC Bar
Ahh, didn't find this thread in my quick search. Thanks for moving my post to the correct place 
G
Guest
Unregistered
The workshop manual actually says to choose the oil weight based on your climate.
You will find however that most fully synth oils available in stores here are fairly lightweight, with a few rare exceptions.
You will find however that most fully synth oils available in stores here are fairly lightweight, with a few rare exceptions.
formanth
Leaving Skid Marks
hey guys, any BITOG geeks (like me) on here? Don't know if this helps but anyway...
A Legnum owner's manual that I have (written in 2000/2001) recommends a 30 weight oil for the 2.5TT, specifically a 10w-30 for our cars. Same as what was recommended for the 3000GT twin turbo ( 10w-30).
Of course you can lower the first number to a 5w or even 0w to help cold start flow, which it will, but what the manual does caution against is using only 20 weight oils, in case someone was trying too hard to improve fuel economy by reducing drag or something similar. The engineers at Mitsubishi probably had "newer" ( low km) engines in mind when testing oils in the 2.5TT, seeing as most car owners in Japan change their cars after 7-9 years ( average distance traveled per year is about 9000-12,000 kms).
An engine that's clocked 100,000 k's probably wasn't used in their oil tests. Mitsi aren't fussed because they didn't need to cover themselves, as their warranty expired before 100,000 kms back then. Or most change their "old" car for newer models more often (compared to other countries).
So use whatever makes you happy in the seat-of-the-pants dyno.
Government fuel economy regulations also would have played a part in their final selection of a 30 weight. Plus ease of availability- 5w or 10w is/was easy to get- every Uncle Taro at the local Eneos has it.
Also, what usually happens is that a decent 10w-30 will stay "in grade" (shear less) a bit longer than an oil with a higher spread between the numbers i.e 0w-50, 10w-60, 0w-40 oils...in theory.
When mine reaches 115,000-120,000 km, it might be a good idea to run a 40w oil. I'd be more concerned about protecting bearings than economy, which higher viscosity oils generally do better at.
By having an oil pressure and oil temp gauge, you can be sure you have enough oil pressure with low viscosity oils, as well as checking that oil temps remain within normal operating range.
Anyone that takes their VR-4 to a track with sustained rpm for extended laps should at least be using a very stout 30 weight, but preferably a 40 weight oil or higher as viscosity decreases as oil temps rise ( making the Cst lower quickly after 120 degrees C). The "hot" temp is what counts on a track, not cold flow.
For the street, an Xw-30 will be fine most of the time. Today's oils will all handle a 5,000 km oci ( oil change interval) without a problem. But different oils shear differently, in different engines. Fuel dilution ( excessive idling, engine running too rich) will shear an oil's viscosity down a grade, or close to it (an Xw-30 will end up being more like a 20 weight).
Wrx's and Subie turbos are hard on engine oil because of shearing. Many on BITOG and NASIOC have had good results backed by UOA ( used oil analysis) from Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 ( Rotella in the US).
For most folks, high silicon ( from poor air filtering/ induction usually) and high iron (parts per miilion-ppm) will contribute to increased wear faster than whether an 0 or 5 or 10 first number in used in your car.
A decent air filter with regular oil changes and your V6 should last longer than a lot of its parts..
A Legnum owner's manual that I have (written in 2000/2001) recommends a 30 weight oil for the 2.5TT, specifically a 10w-30 for our cars. Same as what was recommended for the 3000GT twin turbo ( 10w-30).
Of course you can lower the first number to a 5w or even 0w to help cold start flow, which it will, but what the manual does caution against is using only 20 weight oils, in case someone was trying too hard to improve fuel economy by reducing drag or something similar. The engineers at Mitsubishi probably had "newer" ( low km) engines in mind when testing oils in the 2.5TT, seeing as most car owners in Japan change their cars after 7-9 years ( average distance traveled per year is about 9000-12,000 kms).
An engine that's clocked 100,000 k's probably wasn't used in their oil tests. Mitsi aren't fussed because they didn't need to cover themselves, as their warranty expired before 100,000 kms back then. Or most change their "old" car for newer models more often (compared to other countries).
So use whatever makes you happy in the seat-of-the-pants dyno.
Government fuel economy regulations also would have played a part in their final selection of a 30 weight. Plus ease of availability- 5w or 10w is/was easy to get- every Uncle Taro at the local Eneos has it.
Also, what usually happens is that a decent 10w-30 will stay "in grade" (shear less) a bit longer than an oil with a higher spread between the numbers i.e 0w-50, 10w-60, 0w-40 oils...in theory.
When mine reaches 115,000-120,000 km, it might be a good idea to run a 40w oil. I'd be more concerned about protecting bearings than economy, which higher viscosity oils generally do better at.
By having an oil pressure and oil temp gauge, you can be sure you have enough oil pressure with low viscosity oils, as well as checking that oil temps remain within normal operating range.
Anyone that takes their VR-4 to a track with sustained rpm for extended laps should at least be using a very stout 30 weight, but preferably a 40 weight oil or higher as viscosity decreases as oil temps rise ( making the Cst lower quickly after 120 degrees C). The "hot" temp is what counts on a track, not cold flow.
For the street, an Xw-30 will be fine most of the time. Today's oils will all handle a 5,000 km oci ( oil change interval) without a problem. But different oils shear differently, in different engines. Fuel dilution ( excessive idling, engine running too rich) will shear an oil's viscosity down a grade, or close to it (an Xw-30 will end up being more like a 20 weight).
Wrx's and Subie turbos are hard on engine oil because of shearing. Many on BITOG and NASIOC have had good results backed by UOA ( used oil analysis) from Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 ( Rotella in the US).
For most folks, high silicon ( from poor air filtering/ induction usually) and high iron (parts per miilion-ppm) will contribute to increased wear faster than whether an 0 or 5 or 10 first number in used in your car.
A decent air filter with regular oil changes and your V6 should last longer than a lot of its parts..
formanth
Leaving Skid Marks
Hey Joey T, it's not a bad site, eh! haha- some of those guys think way too much about engine oils.
It is informative though, with UOA examples going back to 2003 or so. Evolutionmnet has some UOAs from the Evo crowd.
I used to dislike chemistry at school but BITOG makes it more interesting for (revheads like me,..I mean, for) those who are curious about that expensive fluid in your engine.
Helix is supposed to be good, but until you get a UOA from your engine it's just an assumption.
Actually, the Helix Ultra Xw-30 available in Australia seems decent(on paper) as a street oil too, with a viscosity at 100c of around 12. But my last post wasn't an endorsement of Shell products, just keeping the options open as to what might work well in our 6A13 twin turbos which we don't have many UOAs on...
Currently on 0w-30 , as it's winter here with most morning temps around -11c to -3c until 11 am, not Russia or Canada cold but I'd prefer to help out the battery , alternator etc with something "lighter". (though the Amsoil AZO I'm using is not as light" at 40c as the Eneos Sustina 5w-30).
Tried 5w-40 last summer and when I did a few short laps at the track last April, it was 1L of 10w-40 mixed with 3L of 0w-30( same brand). Wait...0w-30 on a track? why not, it wasn't Fuji speedway or Mt Panorama ( 1 warm up, 3 or 4 hot laps and 1 cool down- relatively short time period). No pistons exited the side of my block and nothing starved of oil or blew up- but my radiator top tank split and I had a 370 km drive home. Mixing oil weights can't be that bad as a lot of my engine's cooling ability had gone, leaving the oil to work a bit harder. Managed to get home safely with engine intact though ( phew)
It is informative though, with UOA examples going back to 2003 or so. Evolutionmnet has some UOAs from the Evo crowd.
I used to dislike chemistry at school but BITOG makes it more interesting for (revheads like me,..I mean, for) those who are curious about that expensive fluid in your engine.
Helix is supposed to be good, but until you get a UOA from your engine it's just an assumption.
Actually, the Helix Ultra Xw-30 available in Australia seems decent(on paper) as a street oil too, with a viscosity at 100c of around 12. But my last post wasn't an endorsement of Shell products, just keeping the options open as to what might work well in our 6A13 twin turbos which we don't have many UOAs on...
Currently on 0w-30 , as it's winter here with most morning temps around -11c to -3c until 11 am, not Russia or Canada cold but I'd prefer to help out the battery , alternator etc with something "lighter". (though the Amsoil AZO I'm using is not as light" at 40c as the Eneos Sustina 5w-30).
Tried 5w-40 last summer and when I did a few short laps at the track last April, it was 1L of 10w-40 mixed with 3L of 0w-30( same brand). Wait...0w-30 on a track? why not, it wasn't Fuji speedway or Mt Panorama ( 1 warm up, 3 or 4 hot laps and 1 cool down- relatively short time period). No pistons exited the side of my block and nothing starved of oil or blew up- but my radiator top tank split and I had a 370 km drive home. Mixing oil weights can't be that bad as a lot of my engine's cooling ability had gone, leaving the oil to work a bit harder. Managed to get home safely with engine intact though ( phew)
