Engine Oils - Whats Good/Whats Bad

[Guest]

I did try Elf Competition SM 10w40 (Group 4) a few changes back before the ticking permanently set it, and it still persisted after startup for quite a while and I really didn't notice much benefit.

 

[mills_88]

I recently went from a 0w40 to a 5w30 and not impressed with the results. Much more lifter noise now with fresh 5w30 than there was with the old 0w40.

 

[pu-11-me]

I gave up caring. I just use Pro-Ma....

I use this oil now though. Haven't tried it without the additive. Might give a go if I could be bothered...

 

[Guest]

I recently went from a 0w40 to a 5w30 and not impressed with the results. Much more lifter noise now with fresh 5w30 than there was with the old 0w40.

What were the oils used?

 

[Guest]

I use this stuff http://www.ulx110.com.au/index.htm in either a 5w30 or 0w40 depending on whats on the shelf at the time. I previously used to use this stuff on my other cars http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/ and both have provided some great results over the years.

We did a dyno comparison on a U12 SR20DET in a mates pulsar whilst he was having his ecu tuned and first run was with Mobil 1, we dumped the oil, replaced the filter, added ulx oil and did another dyno run immediately afterwards and it put down an additional 11kw @ wheels and revved smoother and stronger. This was about 8yrs, and the engine is still being run on ulx oil and is still going strong.

 

[mills_88]

Both were castrol, mainly cos they are the easiest to get hold of. Have used Mobil 1 in the passed but thought that was pretty shit and not worth the money at all.

Going to continue experimenting with different brands till i find something i like.

 

[fieldy107]

look out, you'll stir up the snake-oil (Amsoil) worshipers....

:lol:

There is to many people in this thread that simply don't get it, so I cbf telling them otherwise. Carry on using the wrong oil peeps, along as your worn out litters aren't ticking, that's all that matters right?

 

[Guest]

I'm sure I posted a translation of this before, but hopefully it helps people to select the most suitable oil for them.

 

[Hotwire]

There is to many people in this thread that simply don't get it, so I cbf telling them otherwise. Carry on using the wrong oil peeps, along as your worn out litters aren't ticking, that's all that matters right?

 

[pu-11-me]

I'm sure I posted a translation of this before, but hopefully it helps people to select the most suitable oil for them.

Is this referring to outside temp at operating temp of the oil, or cold start temps? I can tell you now that it isn't terribly accurate if it is referring to cold start temps!

I changed my oil from a 10W to a 5W (SIN 10 down to SIN 5) when winter hit because as soon as the outside temps started to hit 0 degrees in the morning, the car did NOT want to start....

 

[TME_Steve]

I use this stuff http://www.ulx110.com.au/index.htm in either a 5w30 or 0w40 depending on whats on the shelf at the time. I previously used to use this stuff on my other cars http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/ and both have provided some great results over the years.

We did a dyno comparison on a U12 SR20DET in a mates pulsar whilst he was having his ecu tuned and first run was with Mobil 1, we dumped the oil, replaced the filter, added ulx oil and did another dyno run immediately afterwards and it put down an additional 11kw @ wheels and revved smoother and stronger. This was about 8yrs, and the engine is still being run on ulx oil and is still going strong.

11kW assuming it wasn't a 500kW monster that's a lot!, did anything else change though? Like was the manifold cooler or engine temps cooler?

 

[Guest]

Bog stock engine, nothing changed as it was two runs in succession. Only different factor being the oil. Shows how good, and how shit, oils can be.

 

[Guest]

If you are happy with how your car is running and it's not giving you any trouble then that is all that ultimately matters.

 

[king_panther]

This ULX110 oil is intriguing. The website though massively needs an update & some dyno graphs from after the late 90s.

It seems to be a mineral based oil, rather than synthetic which is what we're recommended? Is this going to be a problem?

 

[Slinz]

I'm also interested in the ULX110, the website isn't too good at selling me the oil though lol

 

[Guest]

Yeah the website is pretty basic, but it's results in the real world are what sold it to me. As the saying goes "actions speak louder than words".

 

[Hotwire]

ULX110 is what goes into my Liberty GT as S&J use it for all the cars the workon.
As for the legnum, well Motul 8100XCess does fine for me, so i'll stick with that, as its readily available.

 

[Guest]

Yeah both s&j and turbo tune here in adelaide use it, as well as a few other places around town.

 

[Slinz]

The website seems to list a LOT of local workshops as retailers...Does that mean you can buy it from them to use yourself? Or do you have to get the car serviced there?

Also any idea on price Steve?

 

[Guest]

You can buy it off the shelf just as you would any other type of oil, but only from the selected stockists on the website. I get mine from O.G Rd Speed Shop. It's about $60 for 5ltrs.

If it's the first time you've used it/seen it, it will freak you out and you'll probably think you've just bought coolant lol