Mortz
Leaving Skid Marks
Motul Excess 5w40 is on special at Autobarn atm for $65 for 5L if anyone is interested. I'm gunna go grab a few bottles.
Engine Oils - Whats Good/Whats Bad
- Thread starter Outlanded
- Start date
yoshimitsu9
Leaving Skid Marks
slightly off topic
who here has done a diesel flush on their engine? and would recommend it?
you hear stories from both sides of the coin on using diesel to flush an engine of all its gunk and muck.
i pick up my legnum this week, fresh import so id be keen to do it basically if someone has already done it and not ****ed their engine
done it numerous times in my sprinter with fantastic results (stupidly clean oil, was still gold after 2 weeks of driving)
cheers,
stefan
who here has done a diesel flush on their engine? and would recommend it?
you hear stories from both sides of the coin on using diesel to flush an engine of all its gunk and muck.
i pick up my legnum this week, fresh import so id be keen to do it basically if someone has already done it and not ****ed their engine
done it numerous times in my sprinter with fantastic results (stupidly clean oil, was still gold after 2 weeks of driving)
cheers,
stefan
godzilla
1 AYC Bar
- Location
- QLD / Tweed Coast
- First Name
- Trevor
- Drive
- 1/19 2002 FL Legnum Type 'S' Manual in Black with Suede Recaro's!
I personally have never heard of this. Do you add the diesel to the old oil and run it, as if it were a flush product?
I find just draining then running a cheap oil for a bit with a flush product then drain again and fill with the good stuff. But if this diesel thing works it would be easier i suppose.
I find just draining then running a cheap oil for a bit with a flush product then drain again and fill with the good stuff. But if this diesel thing works it would be easier i suppose.
yoshimitsu9
Leaving Skid Marks
my best mate thats a mechanic told me about this, he holds the diesel flush in high esteem
everyone has their own opinions, beleifs etc
basically how you do a diesel flush is, dump 1/2 the oil from your sump. doesnt really matter if you do a little too much, technically you can lubricate your engine with 100% diesel. then fill up that 1/2 with regular pump diesel fuel.
run the engine for 15 odd minutes then dump the entire contents of the sump until it stops dripping.
you will see all this thinned out sludge come out with the 50/50 mix of oil and diesel. quite interesting to watch
to give you an idea of how well it works. i whacked a new engine in my sprinter a few months ago, did a diesel flush on it, and filled up with fresh castrol gtx2. driven around with that in the engine for a couple of months. then about a month ago i did an oil change to castrol edge 5w30 and 2 weeks later the oil was still golden, under the cam covers was spotlessly clean.
do it at your own risk. ive tried it, my mate does it at work. to me it isnt the end of the world if worst case the engine in my car blew up because of it sort of thing as it would cost $500 max to replace a ****ed 4age. where as replacing a 6a13tt is going to cost a whole lot more
everyone has their own opinions, beleifs etc
basically how you do a diesel flush is, dump 1/2 the oil from your sump. doesnt really matter if you do a little too much, technically you can lubricate your engine with 100% diesel. then fill up that 1/2 with regular pump diesel fuel.
run the engine for 15 odd minutes then dump the entire contents of the sump until it stops dripping.
you will see all this thinned out sludge come out with the 50/50 mix of oil and diesel. quite interesting to watch
to give you an idea of how well it works. i whacked a new engine in my sprinter a few months ago, did a diesel flush on it, and filled up with fresh castrol gtx2. driven around with that in the engine for a couple of months. then about a month ago i did an oil change to castrol edge 5w30 and 2 weeks later the oil was still golden, under the cam covers was spotlessly clean.
do it at your own risk. ive tried it, my mate does it at work. to me it isnt the end of the world if worst case the engine in my car blew up because of it sort of thing as it would cost $500 max to replace a ****ed 4age. where as replacing a 6a13tt is going to cost a whole lot more
G
Guest
Unregistered
slightly off topic
who here has done a diesel flush on their engine? and would recommend it?
you hear stories from both sides of the coin on using diesel to flush an engine of all its gunk and muck.
i pick up my legnum this week, fresh import so id be keen to do it basically if someone has already done it and not ****ed their engine
done it numerous times in my sprinter with fantastic results (stupidly clean oil, was still gold after 2 weeks of driving)
cheers,
stefan
Yes I often do engine flushes on both my Legnum and old Hyundai Coupe which has over 200,000kms on it and runs great. The Hyundai is renowned for getting HLA (Hydraulic Lash Adjusters aka lifters) ticking noise, but I've managed to cure mine with this routine.
Instead of diesel, I use kerosene - it's what most of the commercial engine flush products contain anyway. I personally don't believe the horror stories that get passed around, but follow these instructions at your own risk!
Parts needed:
300ml Kerosene
1 x cheapest oil filter
1 x good quality oil filter
4 to 5L of cheapest mineral oil
5L of good quality fully synthetic oil.
Below is my process:
1. Add 300ml Kerosene to existing engine oil
2. Idle quietly for 15 mins (DO NOT REV OR DRIVE THE CAR!!!!)
3. Drain out old engine oil
4. Change oil filter for a cheapy
5. Replace sump plug
6. Fill engine with cheap mineral oil
7. Idle again for 15 mins as above.
8. Drain this mineral oil out, you will be surprised how filthy it got so quickly!
9. Change oil filter for a good quality one
10. Replace sump plug
11. Fill with good quality full synthetic oil
12. Enjoy your smoother, cleaner & quieter engine
I am using Redline Oil on my GTO at the moment (tranny/transfer case/rear diff/engine). Harold at www.performancelub.com is your friend for Redline and other performance oils, well priced as well.
Anyone here used Torco Oil? http://www.torcousa.com/
I've heard that it's on par with Amsoil... Be interested in anyones comments though...
Apparently it's used quite frequently in all sort of motor racing...
I've heard that it's on par with Amsoil... Be interested in anyones comments though...
Apparently it's used quite frequently in all sort of motor racing...
Scubasteve
Leaving Skid Marks
Ok just changed my oil yesterday used Castrol Full synthetic 5-30w with a Tapet additive made by repco. Car is running really smooth and no tappet noise what so ever. Really happy picked up the oil for $45 at the time. Cars running much better then when mosely's serviced it, im pretty sure they used the wrong weight oil.
bradc
1 AYC Bar
They are wrong.
bradc
1 AYC Bar
Yep, the engine is designed to run xxw30 oil at normal temps and xxw40 at extreme (over 40C) temps.
Yep and probably never designed for synthetic either but we run it.
I use Castrol 10-60 with no issues. In fact i run this in all my cars. I use - 60 as it tends to get quite warm in SE QLD i also use it in my track car. No issues.
your choice of oil will depend on your climate.
bradc
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I strongly recommend you run a 30 or 40 weight oil in your newly rebuilt engine.
bradc
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But why do you use a 60 weight? Mitsi spec a 10w30 up to 40C ambient and have an arrow going past it to indicate higher temps
As i said, 60 gives better protection in hot climates.
When i pulled my race engine apart after 5 years and 480+hp the bearings were so good they could have gone straight back in. My latest mechanic couldn't believe it as i race against him and he knows how fast the car is... I change the oil after every track day.
But this is getting off topic.
30 is good for cooler climates.
When i pulled my race engine apart after 5 years and 480+hp the bearings were so good they could have gone straight back in. My latest mechanic couldn't believe it as i race against him and he knows how fast the car is... I change the oil after every track day.
But this is getting off topic.
30 is good for cooler climates.
bradc
1 AYC Bar
Are you saying that they are better for hot climates because a thicker oil doesn't break down as quickly, or because it is going to flow the correct amount for the engine at the increased temperature?
I just did my oil change last week with a 60 seeing as we're coming into summer, I don't see why if its still starting at 10w that it would make any difference other than to give a broader band of temperature protection. What I mean to say is, why would having a 10w50 or 10w60 be worse for your engine than a 10w40? I was led to believe that the first figure relates to the temp at which it reaches its ideal viscosity and the second figure relates to the temp at which it passes out of its ideal viscosity... Is that wrong?
