Engine Oils - Whats Good/Whats Bad

[Macca]

I have always used shell ultra 5w30 and haven't had any dramas with it, I run the fully synthetic shell oil in my bike too. I've been told that shell start off with a better base oil before they start adding all their additives to make it the grade it is where as some other brand use far more additives to get it to the same level. Well, that and the fact that they make the jet turbine oil we use at work so I figure if they can make oil that's good enough for jet engines then I'm sure the stuff they make for cars must be decent too

 

[formanth]

True that is, Craig. Better oils start off with better base oils. That info is proprietary, so the companies won't reveal it though.

 

[Size1]

For you oil geeks out there hope that you appreciate these links to machinery lubrication and lube tips. It is predominantly to do with industrial applications such as gear oils, hydraulic oils and greases but there is plenty of information on motor oils as well. Plenty of oil analysis tips, solutions and scientific data on lubrication. But I will say being in the engineering trade I have always been taught to put in what the manufacturer specifies and stick to that, the manufacturer is the one who has done all the design research and testing. Having said that if you are going to try something else you need to make a well informed decision.
On another note a quick check to see if the oil has sheared and has lost its lubricity is the surface tension test. Drop some oil from your dipstick into a glass of water, if it is a bead the oil is still in good condition. If the oil disperses it needs to be changed.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/
http://www.lube-tips.com/

 

[David-777]

Any ideas on what I should be using since my car has high kms? The guy I bought it off said not to use synthetic oils.

 

[Unco_Tomato]

How high are the K's? I'd be using 5W-30 if it's still under 100,000. If it's well over i'd make the jump to 0W-40 for (on paper) better protection with cold starts and higher heat use (assuming your Rad isn't as efficient as it once was).

Mine is now 170,000K's+ and I'm using 0W-40 fully synthetic.
My previous leggy was still under 70,000 when it was crashed into (owned it for 20,000K's and 18 months) and I used 5W-30 without any dramas.

 

[David-777]

200,000

0w-40 for my first change it is then.

 

[Poita]

I would be cautious in using a really thin oil unless you absolutely need to. 5W is rated for -25 degrees, so unless you are in winter in Canada you don't need 0W. There is a lot of hype and myths about oils, but many people here use 5W / 10W with absolutely no problems. 0W is too thin IMO given our climate.

You also have the flip side of older engine, larger clearances due to wear, so using a thin oil could potentially result in burnt oil.

 

[uzz320]

0w does not affect how thin the oil is at operating temp, do some google searching about how oil viscosity ratings work
Sent from my RM-821_apac_australia_new_zealand_218 using Board Express

 

[VOLK]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

 

[mills_88]

SAE grade oils have a maximum viscosity specified at low temps, to ensure easy starting, and a minimum viscosity requirement at 100deg to ensure satisfactory lubrication at the final operating temp.

To achieve this they are formulated with viscosity index improvers to provide multi grade performance. VI improvers are large molecules which are chemically linked together by smaller molecules using polymerisation. The resulting products may have molecular weights 1000x that of the base stock. The use of these polymers make it possible to meet both low temp viscosity requirements and operating temp requirements. The below chart illustrates this quite well.

And in terms of SAE grades they are a bit of a joke anyway, see how big the 20 grade is on the chart below. That is a massive range when compared to the ISO grades used in industry. And 0/5 are have the same range lol.

 

[David-777]

So can I get a few answers on what you guys would use if in my position. This will be my first change so I will go with the most popular answer.

(First turbo car)

 

[Poita]

I would have no hassles putting 5w30 or even 10w30 in.

 

[mills_88]

I would use a 0w40 purely for the higher viscosity at operating temp which will enhance protection of your ageing engine. You're not likely to find a 5w40 or 10w40 but these would probably be more suited to our climate, even in winter.

Having said that a 5w30 will probably have negligible difference. Those are your options though basically, a 0w40 or a 5w30 synthetic. Everyone will have their opinion on which will work but the choice is yours.

 

[fieldy107]

5-30 is what Mitsubishi recommend.

 

[BFun]

I've used 5w30 and Meek has put 5w30 in my car (77,000km).I talked to TME Steve the other week and he recommended 0w40, so I'll give that a go next change.

 

[VOLK]

http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Shell-Helix-Ultra-Engine-Oil-5W-40-5-Litre/215344

Best oil I've used so far. On sale currently too...

 

[mills_88]

I would also recommend that. ^

 

[Lucadou]

Even cheaper at repco, $45. Plus 30% off if you're racq/v/etc member this weekend. edit: sorry that was wrong, still is $45

 

[BCX]

I only have ever put nulon fluids in... Coolant, brake fluid, etc.

Have found 5w-30 is best weight given our climate here.

 

[vr4cobra]

http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Shell-Helix-Ultra-Engine-Oil-5W-40-5-Litre/215344

Best oil I've used so far. On sale currently too...

that oil made me realize how loud my lifter tick really was (140000km on the clock) I found best for my car so far is nullon 5w-40