Forged Engine Build Pics
- Thread starter 6A13TT TYPE S
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- #42
Hopefully picking up the steel to make the replacement cams out of tomorrow.
But this time instead of using AISI-1045 It will be a special induction hardenable tool steel.
This weekend is going to be a long one getting the cams back up the were I was.
Also it looks like we will be using the BC1100 Valve springs after all but shimming underneath them to acheive the appropriate seat spring pressure safe for 40 psi of boost.
so as soon as I get the shims I can assemble the heads, less the cams and put them on the block.
But this time instead of using AISI-1045 It will be a special induction hardenable tool steel.
This weekend is going to be a long one getting the cams back up the were I was.
Also it looks like we will be using the BC1100 Valve springs after all but shimming underneath them to acheive the appropriate seat spring pressure safe for 40 psi of boost.
so as soon as I get the shims I can assemble the heads, less the cams and put them on the block.
Badger
Leaving Skid Marks
Holy crap
- Thread starter
- #44
also I took a knife to my old S2 samsung phone and dug the scratched up lens cover off so hopefully the next batch of photos wont look like they were taken through a greasy piece of cling film
whats_doing
QLD Events Manager
What did you make the last ones out of? 1045?
- Thread starter
- #46
Yep. we were making a bunch of SeaDoo jetski cams from the same stuff but then upgraded to the special tool steel as it is just all around just better.
Adam,
Will you be retaining normal lifters or converting to something like this?
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=20104
Will you be retaining normal lifters or converting to something like this?
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=20104
- Thread starter
- #48
Lifters will be remaining hydraulic. just the ones from Meek
- Thread starter
- #49
Few more updates.
Decided to grab some better snaps of the complete short block, now with new frost plugs
Made up some new gallery bungs from alloy to plug up the ends of the oil gallerys because I took the stock ball bearings out to clean the gallerys before assembly
Also here are a couple snaps of the clutch we will be using on this engine. OS Giken R2CD twin plate push type. Have got a Quarter master hydraulic release bearing to suit the new push type clutch as stock VR4's are pull type
And here are some snaps I managed to take of the manufacture of the replacement billet cams
Took me a solid 12-15 hours to make the replacement cams. and thats just to the rough ground stage, still need to get these new ones hardedned and then grind all the bearing surfaces and finish grind the lobes to size. alot more work yet but hopefully will have them done within a week or so to get the motor in the car ready for the upcoming track day
Decided to grab some better snaps of the complete short block, now with new frost plugs
Made up some new gallery bungs from alloy to plug up the ends of the oil gallerys because I took the stock ball bearings out to clean the gallerys before assembly
Also here are a couple snaps of the clutch we will be using on this engine. OS Giken R2CD twin plate push type. Have got a Quarter master hydraulic release bearing to suit the new push type clutch as stock VR4's are pull type
And here are some snaps I managed to take of the manufacture of the replacement billet cams
Took me a solid 12-15 hours to make the replacement cams. and thats just to the rough ground stage, still need to get these new ones hardedned and then grind all the bearing surfaces and finish grind the lobes to size. alot more work yet but hopefully will have them done within a week or so to get the motor in the car ready for the upcoming track day
whats_doing
QLD Events Manager
To turn them, were they done in 2 ops? Or 3?
mookers
puri puri
- Location
- Frankston, Melbourne, VIC
- First Name
- Derek
- Drive
- CL9 Accord Euro Lux, GE Jazz VTi, Evil Supervillain Chair, Homemade Portable Square Drumkit
Great stuff. Love the pics of the process.
- Thread starter
- #53
I made these all my hand on a manual lathe.
first lathe the blanks with "round lobes" as such shown here
-then drill the front of the cam and thread the bolt hole and drill a dowel pin hole in the front of the blank cam and insert a dowel. use a stock cam to set the cam grinding machine up to grind the lobes in the correct place relative to the dowel pin.
-Grind the lobes onto the new cam
-then put the cams into the mill and mill the hex onto the cam (24mm hex for holding the cam still when tightening the cam pulley bolt, located just infront of the rear pair of lobes on every cam)
-Then off to the heat treaters to get hardened
-once hardened set the cam grinder up again using a stock cam same way as mentioned before and finish grind the lobes with a very smooth fine surface finish. and then do the same to all the bearing journals, as well as the seal surface on the snouts of the cams.
and Ta-Da new shiny cams all finished.
Also Tophler, if you are using ARP studs for the mains make sure your engine builder checks all bearing clearances and line hones the main tunnel if required. and Torque plate bore/hone the engine as in my other thread here
http://www.ozvr4.com/threads/torque-plate-for-boring-and-honing.14665/#post-320280
Illustrates how the bore distorts when a head (or head simulator aka torque plate) is bolted to a block
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- #55
me too shouldn't be too far off now. just waiting on flywheel bolts to arrive and the cams to come back from the heat treaters and its all go!
R Kilburn
Leaving Skid Marks
This engine is going to be insane. You've got to put some videos up on youtube when it is running
- Location
- ormeau@gc.qld.au
- First Name
- Matt :)
- Drive
- 1963 Toyota Lite-Stout & 2007 Toyota Blade Master G
Uh huh, it needs a "straight pipes off engine start and rev to 10k" video 
- Thread starter
- #58
was burning the midnight oil tonight..
got the cams back from being heat treated so got the cam grinder all setup at 5pm and just plugged away at finish grinding the cams. took me till midnight but hey they are done!
Pics to follow
Just waiting on flywheel bolts to arrive now and the engine can go into the car, Exciting times!
got the cams back from being heat treated so got the cam grinder all setup at 5pm and just plugged away at finish grinding the cams. took me till midnight but hey they are done!
Pics to follow
Just waiting on flywheel bolts to arrive now and the engine can go into the car, Exciting times!
smohekey
1 AYC Bar
Do a skid!
- Thread starter
- #60
Pics as promised
heads all together and on the block
Some snaps of the super shiny cams fresh out of the grinder and midnight last night.
And just because I had them on my phone some pics of the front exhaust manifold which is part of the turbo system going onto this motor.
@smohekey and I are currently learning the ropes of the CAD/CAM software we have access to and will hopefully soon have the CNC mill at work cranking out sets of adjustable cam gears and oil filter neck delete block. but more on that later..
Next step for the motor is make the adjustable cam gears along with measuring piston to valve clearance at TDC and come up with some cam timing figures to set it all too.
heads all together and on the block
Some snaps of the super shiny cams fresh out of the grinder and midnight last night.
And just because I had them on my phone some pics of the front exhaust manifold which is part of the turbo system going onto this motor.
@smohekey and I are currently learning the ropes of the CAD/CAM software we have access to and will hopefully soon have the CNC mill at work cranking out sets of adjustable cam gears and oil filter neck delete block. but more on that later..
Next step for the motor is make the adjustable cam gears along with measuring piston to valve clearance at TDC and come up with some cam timing figures to set it all too.
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