whats_doing
QLD Events Manager
What CNC mill do you have at your disposal?
Forged Engine Build Pics
- Thread starter 6A13TT TYPE S
- Start date
-
- Tags
- builds
- Thread starter
- #64
nothing flash just a small manual 3 axis mill which has been converted to CNC with stepper motors and running Mach3 software. steppers aren't ideal nor is the size of the mill. and the spindle is still all manually controlled but plenty good enough for cranking out small things like adjustable cam wheels.
Think the pipe is 1.5" nominal ID. not sure what "schedule" or wall thickness it is. will be measuring all that for the sakes of replicating them when they are out of the car during swapping the new motor in
Fingers crossed soon. big power will be putting the driveline to the test, especially with an unsprung core metallic disc twin plate clutch!
- Thread starter
- #66
lucky I have an entire driveline spare! + an extra rear diff and axles.
- Thread starter
- #68
I already have, in my car.
#1 being AYC (broken 2 of those) then upgraded to ST-R diff and axles with evo lsd center
#2 is Rear half shafts (broken 3 of those)
#3 Rear diff broke one of those
whats next? the hollow tube between center diff and transfer case, or front diff?
place your bets now..
#1 being AYC (broken 2 of those) then upgraded to ST-R diff and axles with evo lsd center
#2 is Rear half shafts (broken 3 of those)
#3 Rear diff broke one of those
whats next? the hollow tube between center diff and transfer case, or front diff?
place your bets now..
vr4cobra
1 AYC Bar
hollow tube i think haha thanks for doing the driveline weak point research for us 
looking good mate cant wait to see the finished product so i can start building mine next year
looking good mate cant wait to see the finished product so i can start building mine next year
Gt_Galant
EC5A
Roughly when this car is back together, what power figure (kw) are you hoping it will be ?
- Thread starter
- #71
Just waiting on flywheel bolts to arrive and then then we have everything we need to put the engine in the car! I'm hoping they arrive within a week so we can put it in the car next weekend
power is entirely dependant on how much air the turbos can flow. guess we will soon find out at what power level the TD04's max out at
Put the cams, lifters and rockers all into the heads on Friday night, and here are a few snaps.
Carl also came around and dropped off the fuel rail fittings and his new aeromotive FPR for the engine. he seemed pleased with progress..
power is entirely dependant on how much air the turbos can flow. guess we will soon find out at what power level the TD04's max out at
Put the cams, lifters and rockers all into the heads on Friday night, and here are a few snaps.
Carl also came around and dropped off the fuel rail fittings and his new aeromotive FPR for the engine. he seemed pleased with progress..
when building this engine what parts (that havent been modified) have you replaced and which parts have you reused like lifters, lash adjusters, sensors and stuff as i'm about to start tearing down my motor i wanna see what I'm gonna need to keep and what i need to replace
- Thread starter
- #75
fuel line size will be about 1/2" I think you will have to ask @Patryn999 about that as he hasnt brought the fuel line to me yet.
as for injectors he currently has 560cc/min I think but will be needing to upgrade as those will be maxed soon. probably go to ID1000's
Head Gaskets are Multi Layer Steel from factory. and are just as good if not better than the likes of Cometic or other aftermarket gaskets so no need to upgrade here.
Ill list of whats stock, whats modified stock parts and whats aftermarket for you.
Aftermarket parts
Cams (Kennelly cams custom)
Pistons, rings and Gudgeon pins (Wiseco sourced from IPP)
Conrods (Prism) used Prism rods as they are whats readily available, If it was a high RPM build, would have used Saenz Rods
Conrod Bolts (ARP)
Head studs (11mm H11 material for 4G63 from A1 Technologies)
Main studs (4G63 ARP)
Zero tick lifters (Meek)
Valve Springs (Brian Crower for 4G63 BC1100)
Clutch and flywheel (Twin plate OS-Giken made for 6A13TT, ie not an evo flywheel adapted to fit)
Tilton Hydraulic push type release bearing (to suit the push type OS-G clutch
New Brass Frost plugs instead of steel like stock (for anti corrosion)
Race Fab TD04L tubular exhaust manifolds to suit the TD04L-13T turbos (along with aftermarket -AN oil and water line fittings to suit)
Modified Stock parts
Cam gears, modified to be adjustable (Kennelly Cams custom)
Fuel rails. Modified to accept -AN fittings, deleting that stupid f***ing loop they have stock allowing to run them parallel instead of in series (Kennelly Cams custom)
Cylinder heads, Race ported and drilled to allow for larger head studs (Kennelly Cams custom)
OEM parts
Block (although it has been honed and the head stud holes have been re-threadded)
Crank (has been balanced to the new rods, pistons and flywheel etc)
Crank pulley aka Harmonic Balancer (Balanced)
Rocker arms
Valves
All gaskets, seals, bearings, cambelt, idlers, tensioners and waterpump are Mitsubishi OEM parts
Sump
Oil pump
All covers such as timing belt covers, rocker covers etc
All engine mounts brackets and ancillery brackets (alternator, P/S and A/C)
All engine sensors. Crank angle sensor, Cam angle sensor, oil pressure sensor, water temp sensor, knock sensor etc
Complete intake manifold remains stock (for now)
hope that helps.
This build thread is gold. I've decided it IS worth going down the same path but there are certain things i'll be doing differently. I'll start a build thread when I get around to actually starting it and post as much stuff as I can. I know its a bit rude of me, but money wise, approx how much has all this cost? even a ballpark figure so other guys can see what they're up for before they get too deeply involved
smohekey
1 AYC Bar
Ball park of 8-10k NZD I'd say.
smohekey
1 AYC Bar
Ball park. plus or minus a couple of $1000. Including workshop labour. But we try and do a lot ourselves.
Similar threads
