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I'm beyond pissed off hey, The tranny is making some funny noises and I have the car off the road.Last time I drove it felt fine, no slippage and nice quick changes but now I'm worried that at least some of the shit I have been hearing is gearbox noise.It's not dead but im sure its feeling a little sick.Very unhappy.
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No removable sump pan on these.
The buzzing could be a bad solenoid. But the first thing I would ensure is that you have the correct amount of ATF in there.
Have you had the wave spring replaced yet?
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Yeah I too think the Buzzing is a solenoid, It only makes it when selecting D or R and makes it on ACC as well as with the engine running. Both gears have a similar but different tone and the reverse buzz is slightly longer. Also it comes from right behind the removable casing of the valve body cover and I can feel it vibrating with the noise if I place my hand against it.Provided the Box itself is OK are the solenoids something you can replace, hopefully with the engine and box still in?
Haven't had my wave spring replaced, I believe something has been done to the box in Japan because it is missing the little plastic cover over the hole surrounding the shifter.(if that makes sense) Like it has been worked on.
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Pull your diagnostic codes and see if there are any transmission related ones.
Officially, yes you can replace the solenoids with the transmission in the car. However some workshops insist on removing the transmission as they prefer to work on them on the bench, but there is no need.
If you are talking about the gear lever/shifter in the cabin, those plastic covers always go brittle and break. It's no indication of any work being performed.
If the status of the wave spring is unknown, then that's a good reason to DIY your regular ATF flushes. Because usually as the wave spring begins to fall apart you will find pieces of it come out with the old fluid, so you get a warning to have it fixed ASAP. Of course, if you are unlucky or leave it too long between flushes it can all suddenly go boom.
As well as ensuring you have the correct ATF and level, you might want to check that your inhibitor switch is also adjusted correctly.
Officially, yes you can replace the solenoids with the transmission in the car. However some workshops insist on removing the transmission as they prefer to work on them on the bench, but there is no need.
If you are talking about the gear lever/shifter in the cabin, those plastic covers always go brittle and break. It's no indication of any work being performed.
If the status of the wave spring is unknown, then that's a good reason to DIY your regular ATF flushes. Because usually as the wave spring begins to fall apart you will find pieces of it come out with the old fluid, so you get a warning to have it fixed ASAP. Of course, if you are unlucky or leave it too long between flushes it can all suddenly go boom.
As well as ensuring you have the correct ATF and level, you might want to check that your inhibitor switch is also adjusted correctly.
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Not throwing any codes at the moment and no CEL
Thanks mate, That explains why so many people dont have it lol. Hopefully the Solenoids are just playing up due to the condition of the ATF and will come good after a proper flush and refill.I will pay for a shop to do it this time because I need it checked thoroughly to see if any damage has now been caused. Level is fine but the fluid itself is cactus. What/where is the inhibitor switch?
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It says there is a problem If the N light flashes at 1 Hz, how fast is that? should it just be the same as the other lights when I run the codes?
hozza
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1Hz is one time a second. I think the dash light ones run faster.
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Hey just a quick question.When you run the codes on your car, In an auto should the neutral light flash at all or only when It has an error. Mine flashes at the same speed as the other lights and none of the are showing errors.Can someone with an Auto check theirs out for me? Thanks.
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Took the bottles of ATF to the mechanic today.His initial reaction when I handed him the bottle of dirty fluid was 'What the fuck is this?" then I explained it was the transmission fluid from my car that they replaced 3500km's ago.They tried to weasel out of it every which way telling me It must be from something I have been doing (Maybe towing a fucking trailer full of solid lead around the Nurburgring in 1st gear for the last 3000km's) And that its obviously just my transmission causing it, despite having no codes and no overheating warnings ever. They also suggested that my buzzing solenoids and strange gearbox noises were not due to the Fluids condition and that in fact they were the CAUSE OF the fluids condition.
At one point they tried to convince me that they told me after I had it serviced that my ATF was burnt and that the transmission still had a lot of dirty shit in it and needed 'another flush'.I was never told this. They even told me how they dropped the sump before and after the flush to make sure it was clean inside.Lying C***S. Also they told me They pumped ALL the old fluid out of the torque converter and replaced it. They told me they used 9 whole Litres to completely flush and refill the A/T. No wonder Its sick that's not even enough ATF.
Its going in tomorrow morning for a "POWERFLUSH" (their codename for pumping the old shit out properly and replacing it like I fucking told them to in the first place) as a gesture of goodwill they are doing it for free however they wouldn't spring for the fucking ATF or the filter the pricks. I am staying to watch and have 20L of ATF so they cant fuck it up. I just hope it isn't too late to save it.
I also demanded a tow to the shop but they refused and told me to drive it and it will be fine, the ATF in there wont hurt it at all. Assholes. END RANT (FOR NOW!)
At one point they tried to convince me that they told me after I had it serviced that my ATF was burnt and that the transmission still had a lot of dirty shit in it and needed 'another flush'.I was never told this. They even told me how they dropped the sump before and after the flush to make sure it was clean inside.Lying C***S. Also they told me They pumped ALL the old fluid out of the torque converter and replaced it. They told me they used 9 whole Litres to completely flush and refill the A/T. No wonder Its sick that's not even enough ATF.
Its going in tomorrow morning for a "POWERFLUSH" (their codename for pumping the old shit out properly and replacing it like I fucking told them to in the first place) as a gesture of goodwill they are doing it for free however they wouldn't spring for the fucking ATF or the filter the pricks. I am staying to watch and have 20L of ATF so they cant fuck it up. I just hope it isn't too late to save it.
I also demanded a tow to the shop but they refused and told me to drive it and it will be fine, the ATF in there wont hurt it at all. Assholes. END RANT (FOR NOW!)
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Personally I would not have wanted to have had anything more to do with them. Situations like this is why I now DIY, and flushing your own ATF is a simple procedure by following the guides on either here or Club VR-4.
If you were able to bleed that sample out yourself, it would have been minimal extra work to do the whole flushing procedure.
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First dump the sump contents, refit the sump plug then pour 4.5L of SP3 down the transmission dipstick hole.
Next, you need to flush out the old fluid until it's clean. I prefer to flush out where the rubber hoses meet the hard tubes on the transmission next to the valve body cover. Top is out from trans, bottom is return so disconnect the bottom and point the hose into a container (extend it with a short bit of garden hose etc if need be). You may get some spatter out of the hard tube, so you can attach a bit of hose to that with the end clamped or something is this bothers you.
To flush you just idle the car until you've pumped half a litre or so out, topping up via the dipstick hole with a similar amount each time. When it flows clean you are done.
Finally confirm the level is correct on the dipstick (that's actually the hardest part!).
You should allow for 12-15L when doing a flush and topping up to correct level after.
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Unless you were to run the car for 5 minutes straight and don't stop to check the fluid and top up, nothing can go wrong. It doesn't pump out very fast, but ask someone to assist turning the car on and off if you are worried.
Side note: You would not believe how bodgy the Hyundai manual is for this service (they use the same transmission) they pretty much say to run it dry then refill, but I don't recommend that!
Seriously, I would stand them up tomorrow. You are asking for trouble if you keep taking it back to these guys. I don't like the idea of this "powerflush" it sounds like they are going to force fluid around the transmission while it's not operating, which is not a good thing. It would be forcing passed the pump and various seals for starters, do you want to risk damaging them too?
And with a comment like this..
.. expect to get it back with something else wrong. We don't even have a removable sump, there is no separate sump pan. You can't look inside.
They are bullshitting you to your face and will continue to do so until you go away.
If you were able to bleed that sample out yourself, it would have been minimal extra work to do the whole flushing procedure.
--
First dump the sump contents, refit the sump plug then pour 4.5L of SP3 down the transmission dipstick hole.
Next, you need to flush out the old fluid until it's clean. I prefer to flush out where the rubber hoses meet the hard tubes on the transmission next to the valve body cover. Top is out from trans, bottom is return so disconnect the bottom and point the hose into a container (extend it with a short bit of garden hose etc if need be). You may get some spatter out of the hard tube, so you can attach a bit of hose to that with the end clamped or something is this bothers you.
To flush you just idle the car until you've pumped half a litre or so out, topping up via the dipstick hole with a similar amount each time. When it flows clean you are done.
Finally confirm the level is correct on the dipstick (that's actually the hardest part!).
You should allow for 12-15L when doing a flush and topping up to correct level after.
--
Unless you were to run the car for 5 minutes straight and don't stop to check the fluid and top up, nothing can go wrong. It doesn't pump out very fast, but ask someone to assist turning the car on and off if you are worried.
Side note: You would not believe how bodgy the Hyundai manual is for this service (they use the same transmission) they pretty much say to run it dry then refill, but I don't recommend that!
Seriously, I would stand them up tomorrow. You are asking for trouble if you keep taking it back to these guys. I don't like the idea of this "powerflush" it sounds like they are going to force fluid around the transmission while it's not operating, which is not a good thing. It would be forcing passed the pump and various seals for starters, do you want to risk damaging them too?
And with a comment like this..
.. expect to get it back with something else wrong. We don't even have a removable sump, there is no separate sump pan. You can't look inside.
They are bullshitting you to your face and will continue to do so until you go away.
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- #53
Thanks a lot mate, that is exactly the process I was told they were going to follow in the first place but they obviously neglected to do it.
In the future I will be doing my own services on the ATF, I considered standing them up tomorrow But unfortunately I wont have time to do the service before my Shoulder reconstruction on Thursday morning after which I will be out of action for a few months.
The 'Powerflush' is just the name they use for the process you just described and that is how they explained it to me and how they will be doing it tomorrow. I will be standing there watching them every step of the way.
I want them to do the service themselves because if it turns out that any damage has occurred or if it does happen to die tomorrow or after the work is done I want them to be responsible and not blame me instead. Trust me this will be the last time me or anyone who knows me will be using this workshop and hopefully word gets around and they suffer the consequences their action have caused. Do it once do it right, its not that hard.
In regards to the Sump pan they may have removed the valve body cover, which is just stupid.
In the future I will be doing my own services on the ATF, I considered standing them up tomorrow But unfortunately I wont have time to do the service before my Shoulder reconstruction on Thursday morning after which I will be out of action for a few months.
The 'Powerflush' is just the name they use for the process you just described and that is how they explained it to me and how they will be doing it tomorrow. I will be standing there watching them every step of the way.
I want them to do the service themselves because if it turns out that any damage has occurred or if it does happen to die tomorrow or after the work is done I want them to be responsible and not blame me instead. Trust me this will be the last time me or anyone who knows me will be using this workshop and hopefully word gets around and they suffer the consequences their action have caused. Do it once do it right, its not that hard.
In regards to the Sump pan they may have removed the valve body cover, which is just stupid.
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You forgot.. bashed the solenoid pack with a ball-pein hammer to get the cover to fit back on 
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You forgot.. bashed the solenoid pack with a ball-pein hammer to get the cover to fit back on
HAHA I'm sure someone of their quality of workmanship would have found a more brutish and unprofessional way to do it than a simple ball-pein hammer lol. Some people hey :closedeyes:
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Had the flush done properly this morning. Used 18 litres all up.
Despite the guy insisting he just repeated exactly what he did last time, I have decided last time it just got dropped and filled. I even let him look on the top of the transmission from the engine bay for 5 minutes looking for the fluid hoses. When I pointed them out under the car he seemed confused so I had to Instruct him what to do using the steps above.
After it was filled properly I took it for a test drive and it felt perfect and all of the strange noises were gone. Solenoids still buzz but a lot quieter. I reset the ECU though and now it shifts like shit haha bit should come good soon.
Despite the guy insisting he just repeated exactly what he did last time, I have decided last time it just got dropped and filled. I even let him look on the top of the transmission from the engine bay for 5 minutes looking for the fluid hoses. When I pointed them out under the car he seemed confused so I had to Instruct him what to do using the steps above.
After it was filled properly I took it for a test drive and it felt perfect and all of the strange noises were gone. Solenoids still buzz but a lot quieter. I reset the ECU though and now it shifts like shit haha bit should come good soon.
im feeling for you mate but this is why i did away with all mechanics in townsville as they no nothing about our cars,i now learn as i go and do it all my self and i seem to be doing really well compared to paying for over priced people that dont know any thing and you walk away with more problems than what you started with. i will be in townsvile saturday arvo i think i will give you a call and we will catch up if ya keen.
Just so your aware, MMAL and MMC stronly advise against power flushing. So much so my old dealership was sent an email threatening revoking our Ralliart licence if we kept using it...
It does exactly what's said, it puts a lot of stree and pressure on internal components.
Also, I have to say this but
Glad it's all sorted.
It does exactly what's said, it puts a lot of stree and pressure on internal components.
Also, I have to say this but
Glad it's all sorted.
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Paying for the extra 10 litres of fluid I had to buy would be good enough even. He will never get another chance to use his new found legnum skills anyway because I won't ever be returning.
Evey one here wants to F**K you hey its Terrible. I have only found 1 person here I trust now and that's Adrian at Dynolink. I'm giving him my 34 next week to fit my exhaust and tune.
Yeah I don't like the sound of it but they seem to think a powerflush is where you drain/fill/run repeat until its clean. That's opposed to the regular 'flush' they gave me last time where they drop the oil in the sump, underfill it then feed you full of bullshit about how they did it properly
When you asked about what transmission oil, I had thought about that as the cause but stupidly discounted it because I gave them the correct fluid and was told it was done properly and expected it would still be serviceable only 3500kms later. No doubt you are very helpful to have around for advice. Maybe you could come and give a workshop on 'how-to properly give a shit' for some of the mechanics up here lol.
