Replacing the clutch

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actually where the **** has it gone,

mike has a printout off it??!!!
 

Rasi

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Qld
First Name
Mike
Drive
2001 Nissan Elgrand - Previously the "best" factory optioned 2000 Legnum (manual, suade recaros)hehe
would you mind posting it on here?

cheers
 
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as per clubvr4 and ozvr4 relations,
club vr4 guides will not be posted on oz vr4,
unless the original writer of the guide does it
 
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So Carsten are the articles still there? as they arent listed. If they are I'll definately join.
 
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ill track them down,
those were the links,
but seams pages/pics are missing!! stay tuned
 
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Mate your a legend! Thanks

So if/when I go ahead with it over the next few weeks I'm sure I'll be asking you blatently obvious advice.

Should be a hoot.. I love stripping bolts and losing knuckles.
 
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lol,

all went well with mine (no blood drawn)
until i had the gearbox in pieces,

all was fine until i walked past the housing and my foot clipped a sharp edge... have a nice scare on my foot now haha...

always manage to draw some blood when im working on cars :p
 

mookers

puri puri
Location
Frankston, Melbourne, VIC
First Name
Derek
Drive
CL9 Accord Euro Lux, GE Jazz VTi, Evil Supervillain Chair, Homemade Portable Square Drumkit
OK I just read through this entire thread and have some stupid questions.

My mechanic has confirmed that my clutch is indeed on its way out, so I will need to replace it (in the next five weeks, if I want to be able to run at the dyno day Gooch has planned).

Stupid Question #1: Since the workshop manual isn't ready yet, I've printed out relevant how-to guides from this forum to take to my mechanic. The guide that Gly found (http://www.mitsubishi-fto.net/download/gearbox.pdf) appears to be for the gearbox, which also means removing about a million other things first as well. So replacing the clutch means doing all that other work first?

Stupid Question #2: Does the flywheel always need to be machined/replaced when you replace the clutch? What purpose does this serve?

Stupid Question #3: Is there any reason to go more than an HD if I'm not planning on doing hard launches or 1/4 mile times? I do plan on eventually getting piping, intercooler, boost control, etc. but nothing major - this is my daily driver and weekend family bus and shopping trolley.

Stupid Question #4: The odometer reads 68000 km. Why would the clutch be worn out already? The car shows no signs of being abused. Makes me worry about how truthful that odometer reading is, even though the rest of the car seems about 68000 km "used".


I think I might be asking about that supplier from SAU that Trav mentioned.
 
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lol,

all went well with mine (no blood drawn)
until i had the gearbox in pieces,

all was fine until i walked past the housing and my foot clipped a sharp edge... have a nice scare on my foot now haha...

always manage to draw some blood when im working on cars :p

isn't that an unwritten rule about working on cars?

you must lose skin off at least 3 knuckles, and draw blood from any part of the body.

it's usually hard to tell if there's any blood, as is soaking in grease and 10yr old imported dirt...
 

Hotwire

1 AYC Bar
Premium Member
Location
South Australia
First Name
Lee
Drive
97 COTY
^Definately law... especially about not seeing the blood... even trickier when working with mixture of dirt and new auto trans fluid - is the pink me or the new fluid?! LOL
 

bradc

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Brad
Drive
Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
Derek - the stock clutch is rather weak, if it is worn out at 68km it means either the owner drove it 'enthusiastically' (but not necessarily thrashed) or it was someone who didn't know how to use the clutch properly.

The best bet imho is the exedy heavy duty, it handles the power of my car fine, but feels just like an everyday car to get moving off the line.
 
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