Slow and Steady Peformance Mods and Results

TME_Steve

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Steve
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2010 nt did pajero tow car / 2000 6spd gc8 wrx tarmac rally car / 2000 Manual Subaru Outback 2.5 just a car
Hi all,

I have been slowly doing some mods to my Legnum and have been measuring the results at each step.... It seems to be something that hasn't really been done so I figured it may be helpful/interesting to all so here goes.

I bought ET's Legnum at the beginning of the year which already had some goodies on it such as a custom exhaust with 2.5" front pipes, a 4"Cat and 3" the rest of the way. It had a straight through rear muffler which annoyed me on the highway so it got changed to a triple flow. I flanged it so I could put the straight through back on for track days etc but in reality it will probably gather dust until I throw it out. It also had a Ralliart panel filter and a TurboXS high performance MBC. The down side of this is that these mods are my baseline.

The day I got it, I had a run against a mates stock EVOX MR and with both of us holding 3rd gear at 60km/h, counting down, then WOT through the rest of 3rd. After a half a car jump by the leggie, we stayed neck and neck with each car moving forward or back no more than a metre from one another.

Unfortunately I never did better than that against him as he got an additional 53kW courtesy of TMR the next day.

So after some cosmetic stuff and fluid changes etc it went onto the dyno and achieved about 185kW and a peak torque of 365Nm at the hubs. ET had won a dyno shootout day and run a 13.7 in this state. So it wasn't bad.

Playing with the MBC on the day I got 190kW but it was a lumpy messy curve and on the way home it kept hitting the boost cut, so ET had it about the best it could be with 185.

The next day the MBC came out and an Eboost 2 controller went in, followed by a flash of the ECU.

With the boost cut lifted out of the way it went back on the dyno a 2nd time but it was running lean as below 4500RPM. No matter how much I enriched the fuel map below 4500RPM it did nothing. I could at get 190kW reliably now but the fuel issues were so bad I put a stock map back in until it was sorted. I was suspicious that something other than the fuel map in the tune was affecting the fuel map scales so I droppped a stock map back in and with the E-boost 2 controlling boost better I got 190kW without hitting the cut.

It went into the panel shop for a while getting a freshen up and while it was there I realised the fuel maps were around the wrong way. Swapping the axis with a bit of the code (same as the ignition maps are) fixed the issue. A week or two later Daniel realised the same thing, if only it had been a month before!

Back from the panel shop in went another flash and the maps worked fine. I then spent the next while logging and logging and logging and tuning the ECU trying to get as much timing advance in everywhere to save fuel in the low load range and give more power without det at high loads. The boost controller was also remapped as the tuning seemed to affect it's setpoints also. Once I was happy with that state of tune I saved that ROM and then put in an EVO X BOV. This allowed a bit more advancxe at high loads so I tuned it again to suit that.

I also fitted a cold air intake to the bottom of the factory airbox to supplement the std snorkel. I also got a plug for the intake so I could do comparison runs for it's effect. There was no gain tuning wise with the CAI but the air temp at the MAF sits about 2-3 degrees closer to ambient than without it, so it does help temperature wise.

So after yesterday successfully dragging off a modded Stagea while loaded up on the way back from the snow, today it went back on the dyno and these were the results.

Mods: EVO X BOV, panel filter, cold air intake (additional pipe cut into the bottom of the std airbox), full exhaust, eboost 2, flashed ECU
201kW at the hubs, 402Nm Torque (referenced to engine speed) and significant gains beween these peaks through the rest of the range. (Without entering into arguments about how valid this is as I know the drivetrains are different) using EVO losses this equates to about 255kW (340HP) and 505Nm of Torque at the Flywheel. Not bad. I think this is the limit without changing the intercooler (with the exception of using NOS and I guess a water spray/injection could help a bit too).

With the stock BOV and timing remapped to suit, 198kW and 395Nm peaks but about 10kW less almost everywhere in between.

On the dyno the CAI had no effect.

Next up it gets a 600 x 300 intercooler, maybe a water spray, a retune and another dyno run.

After that I'll be making up custom pipework, another retune and dyno run.

I reckon that my mate in the EVO is due for another run.... Sure it's 255kW vs 270kW but I have some weight and torque benefits....;)
 

Hotwire

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South Australia
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Lee
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97 COTY
Thats some nice results there Steve!
Have a look for eddyvr4's writeup on both his intercooler spray as well as water injection, and their "null" effects on netting more HP, but rather assisting in post power run cooling.
 

TME_Steve

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2010 nt did pajero tow car / 2000 6spd gc8 wrx tarmac rally car / 2000 Manual Subaru Outback 2.5 just a car
Yeah I saw that, and I agree in concept it should have little effect. It may have some though. If you run your advance a little bit too far and log, you can often find through 1st and 2nd you don't get any knock then suddenly you do in 3rd.... This is when the turbos and intercooler (in fact virtually everything under the bonnet) have gotten hotter and det starts to occur. So if you had a spray, maybe you could run more advance, but I haven't proven that, just a theory, and it wouldn't be much, maybe 1 or 2 degrees, but then that's probably 5-10kW ish.
 

Slinz

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Tom
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Grubby Nissan
Nice work! Keen to see the continued results from the next mods. So basically by flashing the ECU with ideal maps and removing boost cut you've achieved an extra 11awkw? That's pretty good. Looks like changing to the metal BOV is pretty beneficial as far as maintaining peak power over a wider band so maybe that'll have to go up my list of mods-to-do.
 
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Very nice write up mate! I'm currently tuning for leaner cruise ratios and have made quite alot of progress, however I am yet to try your timing and I imagine I'll have to richen my cruise areas again... By the way what are your fuel trims? Mine are 4% and my mate with evo 7 has 10% trims
 

cyber_scriber

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NSW
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Bruce
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2000 Galant; metallic dark blue; manual; Recaros; Momo steering wheel; and sunroof!
Excellent write up Steve and love the stage by stage commentary.

Great results given your state of mods.
 

CLuTZ

Leaving Skid Marks
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Victoria
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Andre
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C73A Lancer GSR, G6E Turbo MK2
Great job! You got anything else planned for it next?

IMO you need to chuck her down the 1/4 mile so get your true indication of power- the mph trap speed!

Every dyno is different! It's like comparing apples to oranges saying it makes X amount compared to another car that makes X amount on a different dyno
 

bradc

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New Zealand
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Brad
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Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
Nice write up, well done.

Do you still have the stock intercooler on the car? If so then you should really replace that and you should see another 5-10kw.
 

Merlin032

Crunching Gears
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Victoria
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Tim Kohlman
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VR4 Galant
Nice post. What sort of driving do you expect to use it for? Ie straight line, circuit etc? How much boost?

Intercooler is definite consideration, personally I don't think water spray is worth the effort. I presume you still want more power? Don't forget handling and reliability mods also! Fuel pump injectors sway bars coilovers brakes tyres etc.
 

fieldy107

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NSW
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Chris
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Galant VR4
Good work Steve, very interesting. How close do you live to an E85 pump? after the intercooler it could be the next step in making more power :p
 

TME_Steve

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Chris - it's a daily drive and with a tank of fuel every 3 days or so E85 isn't really an option. Been considering using it instead of water/meth injection though....

Tim - it's a daily drive but it will be on a track for a bit of fun.... Nothing serious though, drags aren't my thing.... It already has Brembos, hi temp pads, hi temp fluid, swaybars, forged magnesium wheels also. Still only at about 75% duty cycle so the stock fuel system still seems OK, it'll change if need be though. Looking at an engine oil cooler also. I have different boost maps all run more boost at lower revs and then taper off. I use one that runs about 15psi to 4500RPm then tapers off to 13 by redline most of the time but the all out one is 16.5psi tapering off slower but still down to about 13psi. Another is to give me a flat torque curve and slower spool up for torrential rain or something. The water spray will go on if it works, great, if it doesn't then we'll at least know that too.

Brad - A replacement intercooler has been sitting at home for the last few months just waiting for me to get my finger out and up to this point.

Andre - Yes a quarter run would prove results but it has already run a 13.7 at 99.85 before I got the car. The first dyno run represents how it was then and from then on I have gone to the same dyno. The flywheel numbers I am quoting are based on EVO's with known flywheel power on the same dyno, not perfect but it's the best I've got and taking a manual car to the strip every time I change something doesn't appeal to me (plus my driving inabilities will then come into the equation).

Daniel - My fuel trims are stock, but I think I am now running slightly richer than the ROM I sent you I think....

Tom - yes, boost cut has a lot to do with that but the fuel and timing being right also helps.... If you want to know what difference a tune can make ask Tommy86 I tuned his car without touching boost or anything else....
 

TME_Steve

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Dyno graphs of when I got it compared to now.... The flywheel reference on the scales means the power and torque are equated to flywheel speeds, the numbers are at the hubs....
Pre Intercooler Dyno Run Reduced.jpg
 

eddyvr4

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SA
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Eddy
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2001 Legnum Type S, 2007 Kawasaki ZX14
Steve - very interesting and worthwhile technical contribution here. is the revised tune on replacement BOV simply due to a poorly sealing original unit? or do you need to retune due to a change in the opening characteristics of the Evo BOV? (i wouldnt have thought so)
 

Slinz

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Tom
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Grubby Nissan
Tom - yes, boost cut has a lot to do with that but the fuel and timing being right also helps.... If you want to know what difference a tune can make ask Tommy86 I tuned his car without touching boost or anything else....

Definitely! My 7202 is on its way in the mail as I write this, so will be doing the same ASAP :) keen to see the next lot of results.
 

TME_Steve

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Steve - very interesting and worthwhile technical contribution here. is the revised tune on replacement BOV simply due to a poorly sealing original unit? or do you need to retune due to a change in the opening characteristics of the Evo BOV? (i wouldnt have thought so)

Purely that it leaks a lot and the overly hot air needs less timing advance to prevent det.... This was for mine which leaked pretty badly at high boost, others might be OK but with a new one you know what you are getting
 

tommy86

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Tom
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Really fast Magna wagon thingy
Tom - yes, boost cut has a lot to do with that but the fuel and timing being right also helps.... If you want to know what difference a tune can make ask Tommy86 I tuned his car without touching boost or anything else....

Hey Steve care to guess what mine would be putting out at .9 bar compaired to yours?
 

TME_Steve

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At a guess, I'd say it's peak is close to mine but about 10kW-15kW less everywhere else, mine goes pretty hard from 3000-4500RPM, but yours isn't far behind....
 

TME_Steve

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600 x 300 FMIC went in over the weekend. Gave it a quick tune today and played with boost a little. I only spent an hour or so on it but it feels a tiny bit laggier down low to be honest but the 5-6 degrees more advance and 1 more psi so far felt damn good at high loads! MAF readings have so far gone up by about 8% over previous efforts surprisingly even at 3500RPM and timing changes help without changing airflow so....

Anyone who says changing to a bigger cooler is a waste of time with stock turbos doesn't know what they are talking about. Still a bit of playing around with boost and advance before it goes back on the dyno and I want to mount the cooler a little better and fit a water spray and maybe injection also.

Not far off running out of pulsewidth now either....

That all said I'd really like to have a good look at how well Ivan's kit fits cos the 300 is really a bit high as I didn't want to and haven't cut the radiator support. Does anyone in Sydney have one fitted I could have a look at some time?

I didn't want to hit the support below the bonnet catch with a hammer either but there was no way around that :(

I'll try to get it on the dyno in the next couple of weeks and give you all some new numbers....
 

mchieff

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NSW
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Dennis
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Legnum
Nice one - this is my next mod too - the air is just too hot coming out those tiny pinwheels.
Approaching the limit of gain/$ you think?
Also with ~350hp before the cooler, whats your opinion of the "400hp" drivetrain limit?
 

bradc

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New Zealand
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Brad
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Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
You definitely need a big intercooler if you are pushing the stock turbos quite hard.

Dennis, what 400hp drivetrain limit?
 
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