The Automatic Transmission Thread
- Thread starter pu-11-me
- Start date
I was at a mechanics today and an auto electrician who was visiting said he had just seen a legnum at another workshop where they were spending ages trying to figure out how to remove the automatic transmission... Didn't say what the problem was, he might have just been giving me shit
Roy
Leaving Skid Marks
yeah boys bad news... shes rooted... it would run but like I can hear metal stuff being grinded like when you hear those council dudes and their tree shredder turning stuff into mulch...
Roy
Leaving Skid Marks
well it was factory.. and you know the funny thing was I never ever checked it until today...1 clamp must have given way.. but now is all grinding..
naughtika
OzVR4 Stalker
auto tranny + grinding feeling = big hole in your pocket...
Last time that happened to me was to my aftermarket cooler,
hose clamp cut through hose and had a pin hole leak, lost engagement in gears but I knew fluid was the cause,
Roy, did you have the engine on while topping up? As Christian said, torque converter needs to suck it up, good 5l of, so if you keep topping, may be lucky and hopefully grind noise disappears.
to the people that don't know, auto trans builds up a lot of psi in lines, particularly in the higher rpm, that, plus hot oil, better check
hose clamp cut through hose and had a pin hole leak, lost engagement in gears but I knew fluid was the cause,
Roy, did you have the engine on while topping up? As Christian said, torque converter needs to suck it up, good 5l of, so if you keep topping, may be lucky and hopefully grind noise disappears.
to the people that don't know, auto trans builds up a lot of psi in lines, particularly in the higher rpm, that, plus hot oil, better check
naughtika
OzVR4 Stalker
^^^^ this..
Roy
Leaving Skid Marks
I have not tried anything since as I was too busy... will try mucking around with it now... so the suggestion is to keep the engine on??? does it have to be in gear or just engine on??? whilst topping it up... coz it starts to grind as soon as you engage it in something... and I did check the oil and it was full when in park.. good thing is the N is not flashing anymore
naughtika
OzVR4 Stalker
umm.. you fill it.. start the engine for 2 secs or so.. then stop it.. check the dipstick, then fill again..
if its grinding, most likely something gave way inside the box..
doing the above mentioned procedure might cause more damage.. i suggest you drop the fluid into a clean open container so you can check for any metal pieces.. if any..
then go from there..
Well after reading through most of this thread and while I haven't noticed any symptoms from the box yet I think I will just bite the bullet so I can stop worrying about it.
Can someone in QLD who has had it done recommend a place around brisbane to get an automatic transmission checked out and strengthened?
Preferably somewhere on the southside (or even better, bayside) but I am willing to travel a bit to take it somewhere that knows what they are doing.
Thanks
(Not sure if this should be posted here or the VR4-Friendly Workshop thread though?)
Can someone in QLD who has had it done recommend a place around brisbane to get an automatic transmission checked out and strengthened?
Preferably somewhere on the southside (or even better, bayside) but I am willing to travel a bit to take it somewhere that knows what they are doing.
Thanks
(Not sure if this should be posted here or the VR4-Friendly Workshop thread though?)
So here's the thing I don't get. I have never seen a W5A51 that failed due to this planetary. I have however seem lots failing due to the direct drive planetaries failing. Does anyone know where and why this mod started?
I have stripped both planetaries out and had them both welded. I had the pins welded at both ends just to be safe.
I disconnected my battery a few weeks ago to install an amp and speakers. As expected it reset the TCU resulting in very hard shifts. All the shifts have smoothed out except when going down from 4th to 3rd it is very hard sometimes even a clunk. This happens always in tiptronic mode and sometimes in auto when I drive a bit erratically.Is there a way to smooth out the shifts by a certain driving technique perhaps? Or do I need to be patient and wait for the TCU logic to relearn itself? Or is something wrong?
JamesGC
Hesitantly Boosting
with my 7th gen galant there was a computer relearn procedure to follow. on the first key start youre supposed to let it sit there and idle for about 5 mins, then take it for a drive changing up through all gears and down again. calibrates itself based on how you drive during the first 40 key starts. guessing its the same or similar for 8th gen.
G
Guest
Unregistered
Reset again and try to vary your driving style without going overly hard for a couple of days. If you want to force it, then just drive around back streets for about 30 minutes, and mix it up with a little driving on main roads. Try to get a variation of stop-starts and shifting up through the gears. Cruising is of no help, so if you find you aren't changing through the gears take a turn off and head into the back streets again.
However before you do get moving after resetting, leave the car sit for about 15 mins while it learns the idle. You will find that the air-con comes on after a reset, many people mistakenly turn it off but it comes on for a reason. You need to allow the air-con to cycle on and off and the ECU needs to learn the correct idle amount to bump up for the extra load.
However before you do get moving after resetting, leave the car sit for about 15 mins while it learns the idle. You will find that the air-con comes on after a reset, many people mistakenly turn it off but it comes on for a reason. You need to allow the air-con to cycle on and off and the ECU needs to learn the correct idle amount to bump up for the extra load.
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