bradc
1 AYC Bar
Cool thanks. I've got the exact same setup at home and wasn't sure how to mount it.
I just used aluminium flat bar to make up four brackets to hang it under the battery location. How easy is it to get under your CAI? If you do something similar, make sure you offset the angle of the flat-bar brackets, otherwise you may get movement/vibration if they're all angled the same way. Additionally, when you're lining it up make sure you dummy-fit the filters to the dual-bypass mount, as they are fatter than you would otherwise estimate and you may end up too close to the plastic guard.Cool thanks. I've got the exact same setup at home and wasn't sure how to mount it.
Uncertain Chris, as I haven't got my oil pressure sender unit hooked up. Unfortunately if mounted in-line at the original oil filter mount, the hose connectors get pushed down too far which puts undue pressure on the hoses, as their bends are drastically exaggerated, but mounting on the dual-bypass system pushes the filter down, causing it to foul against the plastic guard, which I'm really unhappy about. Due to space restrictions the only way I think I can fit it is if I angle the bypass mount, which isn't great either, as a vertical orientation is optimal. But then, I'm not too concerned about it until I get the time to make up a gauge pod anyway - thus far, the engine is running smoothly, temps are good and the oil is still amber (I did another double-flush with 5W30 synthetic - yes, I'm crazy), and as I'm not giving the car much stick I'm not that concerned. If I'd been forced to mount the filters much higher or horizontally, though, pressure would be a far more imminent consideration.Trev, is there much pressure drop while having that setup?
Well I've only done about 3,000km since I installed it, but at a guess it should be good for 100, maybe 150,000kms. I'll be getting oil analysis done every 10,000kms anyway, just to stay on top of things - that's what that petcock on the end of the filter mount is for, so I can take oil samples without having to undo anything important (like a sump plug...). Before you spit your coffee all over your keyboard, there is extensive precedent for this - there are fleets of buses and trucks in the US that go as much as 200,000 MILES per oil change, because once you remove the contaminants from the oil, the oil itself is chemically stable and reliable at the temperatures and pressures involved. Also bear two other things in mind - this system has been designed and extensively tested for Amsoil lubricants only - do not try this with any other brand, as I'm not aware of anything else that will last anything like this long. Additionally, the filters DO need to be replaced periodically, so it will be interesting to see just how frequently this is necessary. I already have three of each though (and enough oil to do three more full services), so I'm pretty well coveredI never even knew anything like that ever existed!!! How often do you change your oil trev with that setup?
Yes, quite a lot, but I recommend you take the time to read the relevant existing threads on oil as there's very little we could add the the already quite well informed discussion.any ideas??
btw since i did the oil change the car has not been blowing any black smoke (burning oil) so maybe what ever was in the engine before was too thin.
So because someone has raced a car with a particular engine, or pulled several (or indeed, many) of them apart, that automatically makes them a qualified expert in fluid dynamics, lubrication and mechanical engineering? Don't get me wrong - it's perfectly possible that such a person is in fact qualified to make such statements, and even be correct in them. My point, however, is that the qualifications provided tell the reader nothing about the accuracy or trustworthiness of the quoted statement(s).Funny thing is SKR said nothing but 15-50 in the 6a13 engine, and at the end of the day he has pulled lots of 6a13 and 4g63 engines down and raced plenty to victory.
I fear that your reliance upon a fictional deity to assist you in this matter is about as sound a proposal as the rest of the statement. Please allow me address them specifically: I personally have never advocated the use of 5W30, preferring instead to opt for the manufacturer specified 0W30 fully synthetic. Why do I simply repeat manufacturer specifications as though they were in any way accurate? Well, the several (possibly tens of) millions of dollars Mitsubishi would have spent on R&D on these engines and the correct lubricants has something to do with it. Then there's the tolerances the engine was designed to, the heat range, the requisite viscosity of oil required to adequately lubricate the engine components given these parameters and the fact that a substantially thicker lubricant, while no doubt providing adequate protection of the components it has reached, won't be capable of providing any lubricating buffer to those engine components whose tolerances simply don't have the physical space for a thicker lubricant to penetrate.So please stop saying that 5-30 is the way to go when 15-50 protects the internals way better people, mine runs 15-50 and is serviced through SKR and makes no lifter noise and with summer around the corner 5-30 is way to thin, god help me:/
Yea I realised after I made that post that I should have included this, given the most common argument for running a higher viscosity oil is the difference in temps between Japan and Aus...The water cooling system and thermostat are designed to keep the engine in a narrow operating range around 95-100C regardless of the ambient temp, and in turn the oil temp will be kept under control as well.