264 degree cam regrinds + valve springs

[AKKO]

Has anyone else embarked on this journey recently?
My cams are in with the adjustable gears on and the motor has been started as per posts elsewhere.
The guys have seemingly gone to some amazing lengths to ensure the install was spot on...

===Updated===

- Remove the crank pulley & front engine covers
- Remove the timing belt, tensioners, rocker cover & cams from the engine.
- Identify for replacement & order new OEM timing belt, tensioner & idlers.
- Change over all the valve springs.
- Bleed down the lifters & fit cams to measure dry lash.
- Identify that the dry lash is wrong & shims are required.
- Investigate & source shims for engine, Liaise with customer & order new shims.
- 12.0mm OD x .53 mm thick shims (qty. 24) required to compensate for dry lash measurement
- Fit shims & refit the cams
- Check the cams specifications & liaise with client.
- Fit the front bank cams & gears
- Machine head to suit cam wheels supplied by customer & check the clearance. Repeat until sufficient clearance obtained.
- Fit the rear bank cams & gears
- Install the cam gears & torque to specifications.
- Fabricate a dial gauge stand & check true top dead centre.
- Set up the crank wheel & pointer.
- Fit the cam belt idlers & tensioner.
- Fit the timing belt to the engine & line up as per the supplied cam gear specifications.
- Setup the dial indicator and check cam timing front and rear banks.
- Remove the belt & reset with new markings & check.
- Repeated the process until cams were dialled correctly.
- Movement of gears on belt required, in addition to adjustment of gears themselves.
- Repeat this process for both cams on both banks.
- Remove & refit belt and adjust gears until cam numbers within spec.
- MD376687 (Qty. 4) Lifters - 6A13. Weld & Use as solid lifter tools for cam timing
- Refit the front timing covers, pulleys & auxiliary belts.

*Note: The cam gears were not only two teeth off on the exhaust cam front bank, they were also two teeth out (in the opposite direction) on the intake cam front bank. Additionally they were also three teeth out on both cams (in opposite directions) on the rear bank too. Intake cam centres of 109Deg ATDC and exhaust cam centres of 112Deg BTDC.

============

Proofs in the pudding though, results to follow early next week (Galant finally saw it's first dyno time this afternoon with the new mods).

 

[vr4cobra]

Can't wait the hear ur results Akko really want to do cams in mine be great to see what they can do

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

Has anyone else embarked on this journey recently?
My cams are in with the adjustable gears on and the motor has been started as per posts elsewhere.
The guys have seemingly gone to some amazing lengths to ensure the install was spot on...

<<< specific details to be inserted here later so as to help others >>>

Proofs in the pudding though, results to follow early next week (Galant finally saw it's first dyno time this afternoon with the new mods).

eagerly await results also.
measured swinks's replacement cam the other week with the micrometer and, 0.025" was the largest amount of material removed from the radius of the base circle. so a 0.020" (0.5mm) shim should cure any lifter noise if you do suffer from it like swinks did.

is TME steve tuning your car?

 

[AKKO]

Before power figures can be found HERE.

Refer above for the shim sizes used in my application, the specialist Evo workshop where the VR4 is has a hub dyno and will be tuning it initially.

Unfortunately getting TME Steve to Perth this time around didn't quite workout, though he may retune it in future.

 

[AKKO]

16-days until tune / results using same dyno as was used for the before results linked above *fingers crossed*

 

[jungle]

Which cam gears did you use, so we can avoid them?

 

[AKKO]

The same as swinks from CVR4, the Works Engineering ones...

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

16-days until tune / results using same dyno as was used for the before results linked above *fingers crossed*

eagerly awaiting results!

 

[AKKO]

Delayed until the 9th, just to build further suspense.

 

[Badger]

Delayed until the 9th, just to build further suspense.

Lame

 

[naughtika]

thought Bennoz can get them made? (referring to vernier cam gears)

 

[AKKO]

Adam, do you have any comparison pics comparing stock vs BC springs or is there an easy way to tell them apart?

If one of my rocker arms has come off as i suspect then I want to verify/confirm the correct stiffer springs did indeed go in...

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

No pics sorry and they look pretty similar. the BC springs are marked with blue paint pen in a line down one side of the spring. but I'm not sure if that would have worn off after being in a running engine.

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

well Finally someone has done back to back before and after dyno runs with and without my 262 cams in

@Goku had his 7G Galant which has been repowered with a 6A13TT
His engine mods are
255LPH walboro fuel pump
Link G3+ Standalone ECU
Bigger EVO FMIC
and of course a set of my 262 degree 9.8mm lift Camshafts along with heavy duty valve springs

Below is the graph of its 12psi boost pre and post cam dyno plots overlayed

His car was making 257 hpATW with 279 Lb/ft torque @ 12psi boost before the cams were installed.
This number jumped to 288 hpATW wth 307Lb/ft torque still @ 12psi with the cams. thats a 31hpATW and 28Lb/FT torque gain by just changing the cams alone
He then decided to raise the boost to 1 bar before taking it off the dyno and these are the graphs below

Power now is up at 310hpATW and 320Lb/ft torque which is a 53hpATW and 41Lb/ft Torque gain

Pretty decent results. all of the dyno runs were done on NZEFI's Dynapac Hub dynos so before and after results are directly comparable. and the only changes made to the car before and after was cams and fuel pump (pump was changed on the 1bar boost dyno run as the stock pump was running out of flow)

This power level at the wheels will be getting pretty dam close to the limit of what the TD03's can push. but there will be a bit more power in it with a few other mods like better injectors, Better front and dump pipes, decent intake pipes like @Trotty sells

 

[Dice]

And that's with no change in tune? Great improvement.

 

[trotty]

Damn that's a nice gain right throughout the entire rev range. Goes to show how small the stock cams are.

And in regards to the shims. Who supplies them? Do they come with the valve springs or separately?

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

@Dice the car was tuned on its Link ecu already to make the 257hp then the tune was adjusted for more boost and to suit the cams to make the 310hp

What shims do you mean @trotty the ones AKKO used under his lifters? None of the cars here in NZ I have put cams into have had shims in and none had noisy lifters. I think AKKO just got unlucky. but .5mm machine washers from bunnings or any other hardware shop will do if you do get lifter tick. thats the beauty of hydraulic adjusted cams followers. a "round about" size shim will do the job and the lifter will pump up to compensate.

Also guys note there IS NO LOW DOWN POWER LOSS
Just gains everywhere. so now no one has an excuse not to get some cams!

 

[Dice]

I meant for the 288 BHP dyno run was there any change in tune?

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

I meant for the 288 BHP dyno run was there any change in tune?

yes. tune was changed both times. they tuned it to 12psi again as that's the most the stock fuel pump could take. then he gave them the thumbs up to put in a new pump and turn the boost up which netted the 310hp

 

[AKKO]

Just to clarify the only noise I have is likely due to the shims IMO, still yet to have someone else have a look at redialing in the cams / confirm all else is correct with rocker arms etc. Also have new lifters ready to go in though the Meek ones in it weren't exactly old at the time.

Its all pending a rebuild / bigger plans now anyway.