anyone done their timing belt??

[jungle]

Why did you reaplace the tappets?

 

[naughtika]

i'd say have about $5k ready if you're getting a reputable workshop to do it for you..

also in that $5k.. that's parts and labour supplied.. that also includes things that may pop up like the master and slave cylinder needing a rebuild, hoses and stuff..

 

[VR4 WRC]

I joined up to Clubvr4 in the U.K. and was able to download the how-to guide that someone posted up there. I also bought all my timing belt parts thru Camskill over in the U.K. as the dollar was starting to slide then and the Pound was still holding up slightly.

You must replace the Tensioner at the same time. If you do the water pump you have to remove about 2 brackets (air con and power steering) and about 8-9 bolts to be able to get at 1 water pump bolt then you can remove and replace the water pump and start putting everything back together.

Cheers

Scott

 

[Taraska]

I got all my staff from Hong Kong from ebay seller.
Waterpump $60
2 berings $90 delivert
timing belt i got in Japan for half price from what they sell here. If i can find that sebay seller i will let you know. He was good,cheap and quick. My mec charged me $280 to put all of this in the car.
Taras

 

[godzilla]

I got all my staff from Hong Kong from ebay seller.
Waterpump $60
2 berings $90 delivert
timing belt i got in Japan for half price from what they sell here. If i can find that sebay seller i will let you know. He was good,cheap and quick. My mec charged me $280 to put all of this in the car.
Taras

$280 to but it in the car !!! You mean lift the tailgate and throw the bag in right.......

 

[SiliconAngel]

For someone experienced with these engines this really isn't that bad a job - its just about experience and having the right tools.

I forgot to get a hydraulic tensioner for the cambelt - there's 2 tensioners? I get a normal pulley type tensioner but there is also a oil-driven tensioner. The advise I got was that the hydraulic tensioner is very unlikely to cause problems before the 2nd cambelt so replacing the other tensioner was fine.

Conner I'm not sure what you're talking about, mate - there's the tensioner itself, and then the tensioner arm that the pulley attaches to. There's only one cam belt tensioner and one cam (timing) belt.

Hey Simon that's odd that your front bank moved - there's not meant to be any spring pressure there so I'm not sure why that was happening. My front bank (technically LHS of the engine) didn't move a hair and easily turned by hand. I guess you just decided to lock it when you noticed it was under tension - you didn't release it to see how much it would move?

My advice:
1) Buy your parts of Ralliart NZ (it is possible to get slightly better prices, but its really not worth the effort).
2) Download the guide from ClubVR4 (one will eventually be available on here when I find the time to write it, but don't hold your breath).
3) Make one of these:

5) Don't disconnect the cam position sensor - disconnect the plug points and the crank position sensor and then thread the loom through the cam belt for removal and replacement. The cam position sensor is a bitch to get to, so you'll save yourself a lot of heartache by just leaving it there.

6) If you wish to replace your water pump at the same time (recommended) ensure you have some liquid gasket to seal it, and you'll need to remove the lower half of the RHS engine mount (front of engine), which involves removal of the radiator, PS pump and aircon compressor:

(you may be able to get the bolt out of the water pump without actually removing the radiator or engine mount from the vehicle, but I found it far easier and quicker to remove and replace rather than fiddle around in tight spaces)

Hope you find this useful

 

[jungle]

Trev, actually both banks moved, but the front was a real pain in the butt. Yes i used the tool for the rear bank- that was a godsend but also why i needed the extra pair of hands.
I didn't have the lock tool incorrectly and when i went to install the timing belt it moved....almost a 1/4 turn! on both banks. Front wasn't as bad but still moved similar amounts. Again the extra pair of hand getting the belt on was needed.

As i said in my thread, i didn't need to undo the aircon compressor to get the water pump out.
Would have been easier to drop the engine first time but next time ( not expecting there to be) it'll be much easier and faster!

 

[Guest]

Why did you reaplace the tappets?

I replaced the tappets because after oil flushes, 4 different oils and all sorts of tinkering (including "bleeding" them) they were still noisy.

And I am glad I did! At least 6 of the tappets wouldn't move until you put them in a bench vice and forced them to compress a little, then they were free'd up and compacted with finger pressure. Leave them for 10 minutes and they'd gum up again. So there was obviously quite a lot of caked on crap in them!

My car is at least 95% quieter now - it actually sounds like a modern engine

 

[jungle]

Good result then!

 

[Taraska]

He charched me $280 for labor.

$280 to but it in the car !!! You mean lift the tailgate and throw the bag in right.......

 

[godzilla]

He charched me $280 for labor.

So who is your mechanic? If you dont mind me asking. As you probably know $280 is very cheap to do a timing belt & water pump change.

 

[swift5_8]

GOT TIMING BELT PULEYS ECT

This is what I have:

Timing Belt (MD318814) $140
Timing belt tensional pulley (MD316826) AUS $40
Timing belt idler pulley (MD179597) AUS $45
Water pump (MD302010) AUS $231.50
Alternator belt (MD184973) AUS $34.10
Power steering belt (MD317142) AUS $30
Thermostat (MD337408) AUS $30
Timing belt tensional adjuster (MD308593) $210

Will sell for 750$ as a package that’s way way way cheaper than Repco/Mitsi price and ready for pick up or sending!

Might separate.

 

[Taraska]

He works for himself. He is got a workshop up in Arundel. I think i got it a bit cheaper becouse i know him for about 2 years. It took him couple hours to do the job and he didnt seems to have any trouble at all.

So who is your mechanic? If you dont mind me asking. As you probably know $280 is very cheap to do a timing belt & water pump change.

 

[godzilla]

From what i have read , it takes nearly double that time at least from most workshops. Can you make many mistakes doing this job? That would be my only concern giving the responsibilty to a mechanic that has never really worked on our cars.

 

[Madhav]

He works for himself. He is got a workshop up in Arundel. I think i got it a bit cheaper becouse i know him for about 2 years. It took him couple hours to do the job and he didnt seems to have any trouble at all.

Anyone know or recommend a workshop like this ^^^ (i.e. experienced) in WA who can do it in a couple of hours??

 

[Guest]

My mechanic never wants to see a Legnum or Galant again! I think he is ready to burn my car

 

[Madhav]

Ok.. so cross him off the list!!

 

[MUNGEL]

Try Phil from Phil's Mechanical, but my quote from him was 2k for the whole shabang and dont know how long it would take him. Could always ring n ask. He's a good bloke n has complianced alot of VR4's

U3/ 6 Elmsfield Rd
Midvale
9250 3069

 

[Madhav]

Thanks Jess, I had my car done there also, yeah he is a great bloke, very honest...

$2k I take it that was including parts? I wonder how much of that is actually a labour charge?

I'd imagine he's probably getting all his parts from Mitsubishi in Perth and no doubt paying a lot more than he needs to. Worth giving him a call to find out what his labour charge is.

 

[MUNGEL]

Yep, that is including parts. I'm almost certain he will be fine with you bringing in your own part if you can find it cheaper elsewhere.