Forged Engine Build Pics
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- #182
Didn't end up getting to it. another mate bought a legnum and it was smokey as all fuck comp tested it and it had only 90psi on 4 cylinders so spent some time stripping one of my spare motors ready to rebuild for that car instead.
Ah understood
took the opportunity to do a comparison of stock rod/piston against the Prism rod and Wiseco piston
All pistons fitted to the rods
Fitting pistons and rods to the block
Adam, curious are these oversized pistons or just standard bore / forged I.e. IPP/Wiseco (K776M810A)
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- #187
These pistons were standard bore (81mm) but that was because Scott and Carl went ahead and ordered pistons before asking me, I reccomend using 0.5mm oversize pistons so you can torque plate bore and hone the block to exact tolerances reccomened by the piston manufacturer.
Hes wound the boost up to 24 psi and done a bit of road tuning. he still hasnt found the cash to the tune redo the water meth injection with a better setup so we haven't been in a huge rush to get the adj pulleys on.
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- #189
81.00 will work. provided you have a good block that has minimal bore wear, you may just have a extra thou or two of piston to bore clearance and be a bit rattly when its cold.
It also depends on what head studs you use. better studs pull on the block harder meaning you will have to hone more out of it with the torque plate on to get it spot on round.
Boring the block 0.5mm is a tad more expensive but worth it when building a high performance engine.
It also depends on what head studs you use. better studs pull on the block harder meaning you will have to hone more out of it with the torque plate on to get it spot on round.
Boring the block 0.5mm is a tad more expensive but worth it when building a high performance engine.
naughtika
OzVR4 Stalker
i think the wiseco I got were 81.3 dad measured it and said that the bore needs some loving... meaning we'll need to have it bored out
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- #192
he measured the ring lands didn't he?
always measure the bottom of the skirt perpendicular to the gudgeon/wrist pin. I think you will find its 81.5 not 81.3
Low KM's does not equal low wear. an engine that has done 300k+ with regular servicing and good oil may have less wear than a block with 50k and rubbish servicing
Like I said std bore pistons will be fine. the worst you will have is it will be a touch rattly on startup. plus your only using 10mm studs which only torque up to 60ft/lb, carls engine used 11mm L19 studs which torque up to 90ft/lb so in theory your block will require less honing to get it truly round as the block is not under as much load from the head studs. any engine builder worth his salt will machine the block to suit the pistons provided though (within reason) so dont stress too much.
always measure the bottom of the skirt perpendicular to the gudgeon/wrist pin. I think you will find its 81.5 not 81.3
Low KM's does not equal low wear. an engine that has done 300k+ with regular servicing and good oil may have less wear than a block with 50k and rubbish servicing
Like I said std bore pistons will be fine. the worst you will have is it will be a touch rattly on startup. plus your only using 10mm studs which only torque up to 60ft/lb, carls engine used 11mm L19 studs which torque up to 90ft/lb so in theory your block will require less honing to get it truly round as the block is not under as much load from the head studs. any engine builder worth his salt will machine the block to suit the pistons provided though (within reason) so dont stress too much.
naughtika
OzVR4 Stalker
I believe he did measure the piston skirt.. and also the bore on the block..
piston skirt is at 81.3mm
bore is at 80.xxmm all across 6 holes
piston skirt is at 81.3mm
bore is at 80.xxmm all across 6 holes
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- #195
hmm thats odd.
did he measure with a micrometer or just a pair of calipers?
did he measure with a micrometer or just a pair of calipers?
smohekey
1 AYC Bar
I figured I'd throw up some pictures of the build Adam is currently working on.. My engine!
The usual prism rods are here. These are from the first batch so need some light machining to make them fit.
The pistons are the usual wiseco ones as well, although I've had the skirts teflon coated, and the crown coated with a silver based ceramic to reflect as much heat as possible back into the combustion chamber.
Lining all the parts up before they get assembled into the engine. That's a brand new harmonic balancer.
Engine has been thoroughly cleaned after all machining work was done and painted with a coat or two of high temp gloss black.
We've put brand new frost plugs in.
ARP main studs.
Crank nestled into the block ready for the cradle to be installed.
Cradle installed and all nuts bolted up to 60 ft lbs.
Checking thrust run out. Perfect.
Tomorrow night we're going to get the rods and pistons in and make a start at installing the water pump etc.
Unfortunately we're still waiting on the head studs, so it'll have to sit as a short block until they arrive.
The usual prism rods are here. These are from the first batch so need some light machining to make them fit.
The pistons are the usual wiseco ones as well, although I've had the skirts teflon coated, and the crown coated with a silver based ceramic to reflect as much heat as possible back into the combustion chamber.
Lining all the parts up before they get assembled into the engine. That's a brand new harmonic balancer.
Engine has been thoroughly cleaned after all machining work was done and painted with a coat or two of high temp gloss black.
We've put brand new frost plugs in.
ARP main studs.
Crank nestled into the block ready for the cradle to be installed.
Cradle installed and all nuts bolted up to 60 ft lbs.
Checking thrust run out. Perfect.
Tomorrow night we're going to get the rods and pistons in and make a start at installing the water pump etc.
Unfortunately we're still waiting on the head studs, so it'll have to sit as a short block until they arrive.
naughtika
OzVR4 Stalker
he used 2 things.. inverted / inside diameter micrometer and mitutoyo vernier caliper..
It's irrelevant, really, when you bore the block the machinist should match the bore to each piston, so ensure its assembled that way otherwise expect issues- but you know that already
smohekey
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A few more pics of the build, this time with pistons installed.
naughtika
OzVR4 Stalker
It's irrelevant, really, when you bore the block the machinist should match the bore to each piston, so ensure its assembled that way otherwise expect issues- but you know that already
yeah, got couple more things to get before sending it off to the machinist..
oh yeah, what I was trying to get at is that the block I got is in good condition, a lot of material to allow tolerances if needed..
also at first I was worried that the piston I acquired may be tad small for the block's bore
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