List of Problems... Please add to it

king_panther

Gettin' tanked
Location
New South Wales
First Name
Brad
Drive
2012 VW Caddy 1.6TDI 7-Speed DSG. Still crappy DSG.....
i have phantom moments when traction control suddenly turns off and engine light comes on

I get this too, absolutely random. I can drive like a granny & it will come on even. I had the car diagnosed at MEEK & it looks like a solenoid issue in the traction control system. I'm booking my car in this week & will get to see what they can do about it.
I've had it since I got the car (March 09) & it's never actually had any negative on its handling. I'm thinking it's more an electrical fault (solenoid) throwing an error.
 

uncle ninja

Crunching Gears
Location
QLD
First Name
Nick
Drive
Black 97 VR4, 07 Lancer 2.4 lt
TAKE IT BACK!!? i couldnt would break my heart. but im not letting them get away with the mirror or cd stacker. took the car back to dealership they sent to auto leccy and auto leccy reckons there is nothin wrong with it so irritating.
 

ttgvr4

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
south australia
First Name
steve
Drive
02 vr4 galant, 92 vr4, 85 starion
Running 15w-50w weight oil and has lifter noise when at idle a bit and when first started, used to run 0w-40w or 5w-30w and never a tappet sound but was told its to thin so does this mean i need new lifters or should i go back to 5w-30w. I would think 15w is to thick in our cars and nothing thicker then 5w for start up, what do others think???
 

Fully

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Shane
Drive
99 Galant VR4
The thicker the oil, the more stress on engine start up when cold.
You can buy oil pan heaters if it a concern.

I now use 5w-30 Amsoil all year round.

I was using 5w30 in the winter when I was using redline and 10w30 in the summer.
 

Madhav

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
WA
First Name
Madhav
Drive
96 S2 RZ Supra with 500whp
My timing belt tensioner bolt randomly snapped, a small thing that led to a big problem. Aka total engine failure!
 

ttgvr4

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
south australia
First Name
steve
Drive
02 vr4 galant, 92 vr4, 85 starion
The point is it doesnt snow in Adelaide and so no point for such low grade at start up, needs to be protected once warm though and 0-30 or 5-30 is way to thin for our country 15-50 is ok for start up and doesnt turn piss thin once warm, My mechanic told me to run 15-50 because when pulling down the motors he noticed more wear with 5-30 then 15-50! We do live in Australia not Europe guys
 

fieldy107

1 AYC Bar
Location
NSW
First Name
Chris
Drive
Galant VR4
How many 6A13TT motors has your mechanic pulled down? Not a lot I would think considering the engine is only in VR4s and they aren't very common. Like Brad said, whoever told you that is an idiot. The fact your lifters are now making noise should tell you something and thats with new oil, wait 5000kms and your lifters will be chatting away like a choir.
 

chrisssss

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
victoria
First Name
krsta
Drive
99' s2 manual legnum vr4
how is 15-30 motul oil on 100,000km motor its what ive been using should i change viscosity ?
 

sn00ze

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
nsw
First Name
zach
Drive
N15DET
got to have my 2c here. 0 or 5w watever is ok for a NEW motor when the vehicle was fresh from mitsubishi. yes it is better on startup but will not provide sufficient protection once the engine internals and bearing shells etc have expanded when warm in any engine that has sufficient mileage on it. mine has 180k and i can tell you now im using about half a litre of oil between 5k changes and thats using 10w40. however most engine wear occurs on startup and BEFORE the engine has reached normal operating temp. so i guess you need to find a happy medium that will stay thick enough to provide protection when the engine is hot also. my point is that anyone on here with higher kms, even lower kms people (who must have traveled shorter trips hence the lower kms or just plain not much at all, which is also no good for engine wear) must compensate in their oil weight for engine wear that has occured.
 

chrisssss

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
victoria
First Name
krsta
Drive
99' s2 manual legnum vr4
im not braging but appart from my auto going bye bye and belts coming off no thanks to a shitty mechanic ive had no problems with the car been very reliable. since i first got it i have done 25 thousand ks and not a hiccup appart from noisy lifters. great car and i love it
 

Riley

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
QLD
First Name
Riley
Drive
96 Legnum vr4
dodgy fuel pump relay.....made the car hard start and keep running....occasional cutting out while driving
 

bradc

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Brad
Drive
Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
At temps below operating temp, any oil whether it is 0w, 5w or 15w is too thick. Doesn't matter whether your climate is 5C or 40C, 0w is better until the engine heats up.

Sure in a fairly hot climate like Oz, 15w is not as bad as it would be in places where you start cars from 0C fairly regularly.

So clearly you want the first number to be as low as possible.


Now for the second number, Mitsi themselves say that 30 weight oil is ok in climates up to 35C and 40 weight is ok above that. I have multiple owners manuals showing this. The job of the thermostat is to keep the water temp inside a very small range and in turn keeps the oil temperature in a very small range as well. The engine is designed to accept a certain amount of oil flow, and that flow is acheived normally by a 30 weight oil's viscosity and it's ability to flow a certain amount at that temperature. I think Mitsi suggest a 40 weight oil for hot climates not so much for normal operating conditions, but for extreme situations where a cheap 30 weight would break down rather quickly.

If you run 15w50, you are a fool. Simple as that. You don't understand enough about oils to make that decision yourself, so listen to myself and Mitsi and put in the correct oil.
 

ttgvr4

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
south australia
First Name
steve
Drive
02 vr4 galant, 92 vr4, 85 starion
Well SKR put that grade into my car and sorry guys what he says goes because he has seen first hand what wears out engines and what grade is better and his knowledge is way greater then most. I was running 0-40 and was advised that was not the go, either was the 5-30 bottle of liquid Molly i supplied him. Yes i have slight lifter noise but seems to be getting less over the last couple of days and the car is starting quicker which is strange, so sticking with 15-50 Nulon:)
 

Hotwire

1 AYC Bar
Premium Member
Location
South Australia
First Name
Lee
Drive
97 COTY
At temps below operating temp, any oil whether it is 0w, 5w or 15w is too thick. Doesn't matter whether your climate is 5C or 40C, 0w is better until the engine heats up.

Sure in a fairly hot climate like Oz, 15w is not as bad as it would be in places where you start cars from 0C fairly regularly.

So clearly you want the first number to be as low as possible.


Now for the second number, Mitsi themselves say that 30 weight oil is ok in climates up to 35C and 40 weight is ok above that. I have multiple owners manuals showing this. The job of the thermostat is to keep the water temp inside a very small range and in turn keeps the oil temperature in a very small range as well. The engine is designed to accept a certain amount of oil flow, and that flow is acheived normally by a 30 weight oil's viscosity and it's ability to flow a certain amount at that temperature. I think Mitsi suggest a 40 weight oil for hot climates not so much for normal operating conditions, but for extreme situations where a cheap 30 weight would break down rather quickly.

If you run 15w50, you are a fool. Simple as that. You don't understand enough about oils to make that decision yourself, so listen to myself and Mitsi and put in the correct oil.

Sorry Brad but i believe you are wrong here. I have highlighted that you are referring to an owners manual - which is great information for a car given its normal operating conditions where it was designed to be released. NOW we are talking about running cars in areas where temps are consistenlty 35ºc and above in summer, and not only the temperature, but the age of the engine are important. Sorry but you are basing your information on papers written to be supplied to the general public, whereas Steve Knight has far more real world experience than you could ever hope to gain.
The person you are calling a fool was in the development area of mitsubishi for approximately 30 years, has raced Evo's for 10+ years AND has built and pulled down far more mitsubishi engines including 4G's, 6G's and a variety of other makes than you will probably see. He is renowned australia wide for his mitsubishi experience and has guided some of the top production teams to victory at the Bathurst 12 hour, and can steer too - setting faster times in EVO's than many of the "big name" drivers here in Australia

So I will side with Steve Knight on this, and trust his experience.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
There really are some Fast & The Furious characters our there huh...

"This beast's got 500 horsepower and a Borla exhaust system. It does 0 to 60 in like 4.3 seconds..."

"Wow. You can read the brochure."

hrdp_0607_fast_16_z+doge_viper+chevy_monte_carlo+jump_scene.jpg
 

ttgvr4

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
south australia
First Name
steve
Drive
02 vr4 galant, 92 vr4, 85 starion
Thanks Lee i love letting people put there foot into it. Steve Knight a FOOL, i dont think so one of if not one of the best here in Adelaide thats why people go to him from all over Australia. Last year we had temps raise to like 48 degrees in some parts of SA and 3wks straight of above 37 degrees and 5-30 or even 0-40 is just way to thin and will cause way more damage to internals then 15-50 will ever unless living in Tasmania:) Give Steve Knight a call and i am sure he will explain engine wear with to thin of oil, also remember the heat from the twin turbos in summer guys its not rocket science really:p
 
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