List of Problems... Please add to it

[godzilla]

You guys fir real? Tell me this. If it is 0 degrees C in the morning, and you drive the car for an hour, what would be the operating temperature of your engine after the drive?

Now, it is 30 degrees C in the morning and you go for an hour long drive, what would the operating temperature of the engine be?

The 6a13 engine is liquid cooled and uses a thermostat to regulate it's optimum operating temp. This fact alone defuncts the theory that - if it's hotter here than in Japan, we need a thicker end weight oil.

Yes, the start up weight is important when it cones to start up temps, but there is no reason why you would need to run thicker than 5-10 tops in Aus. Reason that mitsi recommend 0w is when it's below zero, you don't want a thick start up weight.

Running 50w in your 6a13? Good luck to ya! Running 50w and still get tick? Start saving.

 

[king_panther]

My only contribution to this topic is that I drove Grandpa for over 100,000kms using nothing but 10w40 in summer & 5w40 in winter & after I had the lifters replaced never had lifter issue or engine issues, apart from replacing the valve stem seals at 230,000kms.
I would always start it up & put it into neutral & let it idle up until the needle began lifting from cold & then would baby it until it got warm.

 

[Guest]

Oddly enough, the Japanese workshop manual says to select oil weight based on your local climate, and suggests:

20W-40 if your temperature is between -10C and 40C+
10W-30 if your temperature is between -20C and 40C+
5W-30 if your temperature is between < -30C and 35C

Make of that what you will.

 

[naughtika]

i've noticed that using a 30 weight oil gives me better economy.. than the 40 weight oil.. roughly about 50 kms a tank..

 

[bradc]

Steve and Lee, yes I am. Just because he builds engines does not mean that he knows a lot about oil. It also sounds like most of his experience or judgement is with race cars that don't need to have the engine last very long. Also as I alluded to above, while racing the engine oil temps will get very high, well above what we will see on our cars in normal road driving. As I said above which you all ignored, engines want oil flow, and Mitsi say that our engines want a 30 weight oil for operating temp to get the right amount of flow. Running a 50 weight oil will see less flow which is bad for the engine. A 50 weight oil will flow the same amount as a 30 weight oil at a higher temp. If the standard oil temp is 100C and the engine wants 30 weight oil then it is designed for oil with a Centistoke of 9.3 to 12.49. There will be a temperature where a 50 weight will flow in that range too, but at 100C it is rated for 16.3 to 21.89 Centistokes which is quite a difference. Using a mid point of 10 Centistokes for the 30 weight at 100C seems to be a reasonable idea, lets look at how hot 50 weight oil would need to be to flow at 10 centistokes. The temp is 130C.

Does your oil get to 130C in normal driving?


A later (circa 2000) owners manual I have has updated that slightly. Back in 1996 it would have been very difficult to make a 5w30 that would have lasted for very long, a few years later it was much easier and they have revised it slightly. I'll check it out tonight.

 

[Guest]

I am currently using a 5w-30 oil and it runs perfectly fine, dead quiet. Albeit i was trying to find the same oil in a 10w-30 but couldnt. Having said that, the evo is currently using 15w-50 without any dramas as well...

 

[ttgvr4]

Please people call SKR and listen to what he has to say about 5-30 as to 15-50, i have no lifter noise now guess it was just sludged up a bit, also remember that mitsubishi use 15-50 in there service centre as there choise of oil for all v6 engines and yes i understand the difference between a 6G and 6A

 

[Guest]

Im not arguing the point, I'm not taking sides. I'm sitting in the middle.

I believe the arguement here is for a newer engine with low kms and no lifter noise, a 5w-30 or 5w-40 etc oil is fine, for a car with higher kms (~100,000kms or more) then a thicker oil would be more suited.

I have absolutely no engine noise whatsoever running a 5w-30 oil. However mine has only done 42,000kms and there no way in hell i'm running a thicker oil than a 10w-40, until it reaches 100,000kms.

The evo currently has ~116,000kms and is running a 15w-50 oil without any issues...and YES it gets serviced at SKR. Both myself and Lee have had multiple pieces of work done by him, and he even serviced my previous legnum.

 

[ttgvr4]

Mine has 94000kms on it so thats maybe why its loving the 15-50 grade, if it had about 50000kms i would stick with 5-30 or even 0-40. My brothers 4g63 loves the 15-50 and has similar engine kms as yours Steve, Although when i asked SKR about 5-30 and 0-40 he pointed me straight in the direction of 15-50 Nulon, each to there own i guess but i will listen to SKR anyday over anyone else.

 

[twisted32]

Looking at what water temps do over summer here, and hence a higher oil temp (especially with spirited driving), I would not be running a *w-30 without an external oil cooler and thermostat. 5 or 10w-40 gives you a bit of headroom/safety net. Remember roughly you want 10psi per 1000RPM to prevent bearing damage, so hot weather, hot oil (100+ deg), 6-7000rpm, that is why I run 10W-40 oil. For note my engine has about 105k on it, and do get noisy lifters with old, cold oil, or when I have not given it enough of a hard time. Oil viscosity concearns with summer, and the extra heat of leaning on the TD03's for 17psi is why I am currently sourcing an oil cooler and thermostat.
I think SKR is being conservative at 15w-50 for a stockish, non tracked car, but he does always err on the side of caution with customers. If you have an oil pressure gauge and maintain oil pressure at higher oil temps, then by all means run *w-30. I may even run *w-30 once my oil temps are constant at 80deg, not 100+ without a cooler.

 

[naughtika]

our engines will never go over 120* Celcius, and if it does, that means you have issues in your cooling system.. regardless if you're in NT or Tasmania

 

[BCX]

So I will side with Steve Knight on this, and trust his experience.

Agreed, steve knows his stuff... i'm with Lee on this one.

 

[green machine]

Just put my back window up and then it slide back down,pulled door trim off,and the cable doesn't look right,still connected though,anyone had this problem before,glad if anyone could help,cheers mark...:cursing:

 

[unclepaulie]

get some pics man

they tell a gazillions words

 

[jungle]

Went for a wheel alignment after I finished the engine rebuild, drivers rack end has excessive play. Replacing both sides.
Heater core in behind the dash failed, engine over heated. Caught it but finally let go 18 months later.
Rebuilt engine
Touch wood, other than the standard top radiator tank crack, I've been lucky.

 

[Stanislav]

Since I got the car;

Coil pack failed
Spark Plug Lead faulty
AYC Relay
AYC Pump
Tie Rod Ends
Power Steering pump
Radiator Top Tank cracked

 

[mcs]

Some small Problems my car came with.

Tie rod ends
Rear sway bar bushes

 

[pauly]

This is in order from when i bought it, ive had it for 3 years , the first 2 years were kind, its only in the year it felt like it happened all at once..im starting to feel that when its going good im like "for how long?"..
** knock knock noise when going down driveways etc...left hand upper ball joint...replaced..
** top radiator cracked(gee, what a suprise) those all alloy rads look awesome , i was happy to replace that anyway..200 to my door, easy replace..
**thought it would be a good idea to retape some of the cabling under the air intake and put new plastic tubing..and while re-taping the trans speed sensor the cabling was so dry and brittle i broke some of wiring a good few inches up without even knowing it just by holding on to it, it sent my car in safe mode, so i back tracked, fixed it.. all good.... my fault i guess ;/
**one of the injectors was fucked so i had all of them cleaned/serviced and fuel rail cleaned , made a HUGE difference.
**Trans replaced, i smashed it to bits.....gee ill never forget that experience..had to limp it from Morrabin to Parkdale, 1st-2nd sounded like nuts and bolts in a blender 3-4-5 gear were good, thank god it got me home....lucky i got the 5 year warranty and it covered up to 2400 on the trans...

 

[Tophler]

I have a clicking sound coming from in the middle of the dash somewhere, think its something to do with the air vents but even when the fan isn't running and AC and heater is off it still clicks. Any idea what that could be?

 

[Akys]

I have a clicking sound coming from in the middle of the dash somewhere, think its something to do with the air vents but even when the fan isn't running and AC and heater is off it still clicks. Any idea what that could be?

Can you open the glovebox and have a clear listen. It might be the outside air/inside recirculate motor at fault. the clicking can be caused by a missing tooth on the gear thingy. just adjust to the part where it did not need to use the missing tooth section and you'll be all good.
here the linkhttp://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?6198-Clicking-sound-in-dash&p=283163#post283163