Oils, Greases And Fluids For Your VR4
- Thread starter Macca
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willemse
Idling at the Lights
gah it cost 100 bucks for the stuff, really didn't want to change it. the guy at the store was saying this stuff would be sweet.
G
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GL-5 is not "better" than GL-4, they are a different type of oil. GL-5 is only suitable for dog boxes & diffs. Over time it will corrode synchros and possibly other bushes, causing your shifts will become crunchy. Better to get it out as soon as you can. Whoever sold it to was pretty uneducated about oils, I wouldn't shop there again.
The two Castrol products confuse everyone. They make one called Syntrax and another called Syntrans.
The second part of each name is the giveaway - SyntrAX for Axles, ie: diffs... and SynTRANS for transmissions.
The info on the bottles doesn't help much either, it's equally confusing.
You could argue that Syntrax is for trans-axles, ie combined gearbox & diff, but it still holds true that GL-5 is not suitable where brass synchros or other components are used and should be really only be put into dog boxes and diffs.
The two Castrol products confuse everyone. They make one called Syntrax and another called Syntrans.
The second part of each name is the giveaway - SyntrAX for Axles, ie: diffs... and SynTRANS for transmissions.
The info on the bottles doesn't help much either, it's equally confusing.
You could argue that Syntrax is for trans-axles, ie combined gearbox & diff, but it still holds true that GL-5 is not suitable where brass synchros or other components are used and should be really only be put into dog boxes and diffs.
willemse
Idling at the Lights
mate just told me he used it for 2 years, never had any gearbox problems. so i think i'll leave it
MackTheKnife
Leaving Skid Marks
Good luck!
It won't necessarily cause gearbox problems within 2 years, but parts of your gearbox will be wearing at a faster rate then they would be with GL4. Should you wear out your synchros in your gearbox it will cost you a lot more to fix then that $100 you spent on the bottle of fluid. Don't say you weren't warned.
G
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Unregistered
Hey this is a great guide and very helpful for people like me getting my first service done after buying a Legnum (which coincidentally/painfully is the 100,000km service...)
I hope these aren't stupid questions but here goes..please bare with me.
For the ATF I can get the stuff from Mitsubishi, I believe I need the Mitsubishi Diamond ATF SPIII, not the actual DiaQueen which I have seen mentioned a few times in other posts? Mitsi say the DiaQueen is for Pajeros and is $465 for a 20L drum.The Diamond SPIII is not dexron so that's what I need right?In this case is any non-dexron SPIII ATF Okay (if not sure I will just stick to the genuine stuff) 12L enough for a full flush and refill?
Is 2L of AYC Fluid enough for the AYC flush and refill?(the hydraulic part)
And finally I live in Townsville so should I lean towards the 5w30 or the 0w30?(I have seen enough questions on here to believe these are the two I should stick to) The car is just driven on the road and really doesn't cop a flogging very much at all.(Thats what my R34 is for....for now)
Thanks a lot for your time guys.
I hope these aren't stupid questions but here goes..please bare with me.
For the ATF I can get the stuff from Mitsubishi, I believe I need the Mitsubishi Diamond ATF SPIII, not the actual DiaQueen which I have seen mentioned a few times in other posts? Mitsi say the DiaQueen is for Pajeros and is $465 for a 20L drum.The Diamond SPIII is not dexron so that's what I need right?In this case is any non-dexron SPIII ATF Okay (if not sure I will just stick to the genuine stuff) 12L enough for a full flush and refill?
Is 2L of AYC Fluid enough for the AYC flush and refill?(the hydraulic part)
And finally I live in Townsville so should I lean towards the 5w30 or the 0w30?(I have seen enough questions on here to believe these are the two I should stick to) The car is just driven on the road and really doesn't cop a flogging very much at all.(Thats what my R34 is for....for now)
Thanks a lot for your time guys.
G
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Unregistered
Mitsubishi Diamond ATF SPIII is exactly what you need. Has a slightly different name in Japan. Buy it from spare parts dept at a Mitsubishi dealer, I think about $40-45 for 5 litres now. You ideally need 3 x 5L if you are doing it properly and flushing the transmission, so yes 12L with some left over for your AYC.
G
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Unregistered
Thanks a lot mate, should I just stick with that or is there something else better for a similar price, its $47/5L at my local and I was going to grab x3 (other than amsoil which I cant easily get hold of in time)
Will the ATF replace all the AYC fluid or just in the diff part and not the hydraulic part ( sorry its all very new to me) Should I still grab 2L of the AYC fluid?)
Thanks again mate.
Will the ATF replace all the AYC fluid or just in the diff part and not the hydraulic part ( sorry its all very new to me) Should I still grab 2L of the AYC fluid?)
Thanks again mate.
General consensus on here is genuine SPIII is the only one to use for our auto boxes and AYC centres.
According to one of the knowledgeable guys on here:
Choice of engine oil is a very subjective topic pretty much everywhere cars are discussed on the intertoobs. There's infinite amount of conflicting info and opinion. Factory specs state those two weights you've mentioned but usually people chime in stating you'll need to increase weight with age, wear and ambient temps blah blah blah science. I say go for the 5w30 as Tsv is freakin' hot and when I ran 0w30 amsoil signature series, it actually got consumed between changes. 5w30 castrol edge has been fine for me and it's a group 3 hydrocracked cheapie.
According to one of the knowledgeable guys on here:
naughtika said:
Choice of engine oil is a very subjective topic pretty much everywhere cars are discussed on the intertoobs. There's infinite amount of conflicting info and opinion. Factory specs state those two weights you've mentioned but usually people chime in stating you'll need to increase weight with age, wear and ambient temps blah blah blah science. I say go for the 5w30 as Tsv is freakin' hot and when I ran 0w30 amsoil signature series, it actually got consumed between changes. 5w30 castrol edge has been fine for me and it's a group 3 hydrocracked cheapie.
No worries, I have nothing better to do....
I use SIN 5 for engine oil. Higher upper operating temp than recommended, but it gets hot out here in the sticks so I think it's well justified
G
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Unregistered
Penrite SIN 5? 5w40? Where abouts are you at. Anyone else tried an oil like this, I don't want to start any debates if it can be helped, seems you have had enough trouble in the past lol.Just read the info on it and it seems like good gear.
![[TUFFTR]](/data/avatars/m/2/2986.jpg?1394428930){kind=avatar}
I'm still iffy with such thin oils....if you've got an oil pressure gauge hooked up to one using a 5w weight oil leaves you with basically no oil pressure at idle. I'd use a 10w30 oil as a minimum, That's my personal opinion though. I used to use a 5w oil until i hooked up my oil pressure gauge.....hell no....I now use a 15w oil but for a smaller engine then mine I'd stick to a 10w...
It's 5W-60. First oil I have used in my Legnum's which doesn't "disappear" between services!
Due for an oil change so I checked scubacheap and found Castrol have changed their edge range to NOW WITH MOAR TIANIUM: http://castroledge.com.au/oils/5w-30-a3/b4
AFAIK their old edge 5w30 has been fine for my Legnuminous, hardly used any since my last change and that included getting a TME_Steve tune so it's seen a beating.
Just hit ~103000km with no lifter noise, I'll change it this weekend and see how it goes.
AFAIK their old edge 5w30 has been fine for my Legnuminous, hardly used any since my last change and that included getting a TME_Steve tune so it's seen a beating.
Just hit ~103000km with no lifter noise, I'll change it this weekend and see how it goes.
mills_88
1 AYC Bar
- Location
- Perth, WA
- First Name
- Matt
- Drive
- Toyota Supra RZ - The Project
Holden Commodore SS VF Series 2 - The Daily
I've been using Castrol for a while now... mainly because it is readily available and pretty cheap. Had no problems with it. If I was tracking it every weekend I might invest in some better stuff but for what my car sees there is no need. And yeah i noticed the new titanium ones, another sales gimick i imagine.
G
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What type of grease are people using on sway bar bushings?
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