Oils, Greases And Fluids For Your VR4
- Thread starter Macca
- Start date
ttgvr4
Leaving Skid Marks
15-50 Nulon looks after the engine and 0-30-5-30 was great in Japan but in Australia is on the thin side of oils plus when we get hellish days in Adelaide over 35-40 degrees 15-50 is better at looking after the internals and thats what any engine wants and with a twin turbo i will stick with this grade waste of time going any lower grade as we dont live in a cold climate like Japan! Steve Knight uses Nulon 15-50 when servicing my galant and his knowledge is mighty enough.
cyber_scriber
1 AYC Bar
- Location
- NSW
- First Name
- Bruce
- Drive
- 2000 Galant; metallic dark blue; manual; Recaros; Momo steering wheel; and sunroof!
godzilla
1 AYC Bar
- Location
- QLD / Tweed Coast
- First Name
- Trevor
- Drive
- 1/19 2002 FL Legnum Type 'S' Manual in Black with Suede Recaro's!
ttgvr4
Leaving Skid Marks
Trevor please do yourself a favour and give SKR a call before you make yourself look a tool, SKR has a very large understanding on Mitsubishi cars and was the only mechanic when i went to get my galant flashed that could flash tune it, GW was a waste of time and took 1 week and still had no flash completed. SKR also races and has one hell of a fast Evo and worked at MItsubishi for a number of years so please call him if you have the guts to do so.
king_panther
Gettin' tanked
- Location
- New South Wales
- First Name
- Brad
- Drive
- 2012 VW Caddy 1.6TDI 7-Speed DSG. Still crappy DSG.....
I've travelled over 120,000kms in the 8G VR4s & have followed MEEK's usage of 10w-40 in the summer. Engine ran fine on that so I'll continue it.
G
Guest
Unregistered
*sighs*
I also have had car's serviced by Steve Knight (SKR) and yes he uses 15-50 in my evo, however I think that it too thick, but given its got over 100k on the clock, its somewhat ideal for an older engine. For a newer engine or one with less (low) kms, a thick oil is a bad idea.
I'm currently alternating between a 5-30 and a 10-40 in my galant and it operates like clock work.
I also have had car's serviced by Steve Knight (SKR) and yes he uses 15-50 in my evo, however I think that it too thick, but given its got over 100k on the clock, its somewhat ideal for an older engine. For a newer engine or one with less (low) kms, a thick oil is a bad idea.
I'm currently alternating between a 5-30 and a 10-40 in my galant and it operates like clock work.
G
Guest
Unregistered
Also remember that (SKR) has an approx 400kw evo which is very regularly used for track work, so its constantly getting the engine thrashed and constantly high up in the revs, and given that oil loses its viscosity the hotter it gets (thins out) obviously a thicker oil is more suited, but for a regular street driven vehicle a thick oil will do nothing but strain the fcuk out of the engine trying to operate. Its like trying to walk in mud with shoes on.
godzilla
1 AYC Bar
- Location
- QLD / Tweed Coast
- First Name
- Trevor
- Drive
- 1/19 2002 FL Legnum Type 'S' Manual in Black with Suede Recaro's!
I believe you set the bar.
I wouldn't waste my time calling him. Thanks for the offer though.
godzilla
1 AYC Bar
- Location
- QLD / Tweed Coast
- First Name
- Trevor
- Drive
- 1/19 2002 FL Legnum Type 'S' Manual in Black with Suede Recaro's!
Thats right. Also, what weight does Mitsi recommend for its 4G63's? And as anyone thought that maybe he just likes Nulon 50w and gets a discount when he buys drums of it? Also, doesn't he mostly specialize in Evo?
Try www.performancelub.com his prices and service on Redline and Amsoil are very good. I prefer Redline MT-90, and have used the Amsoil MTG. Normal prices for full syn nulon or castrol is about $30 a litre, so prices are very good, for superior base stock synthetic oil.
^ Yeah I trawled through it in bits and pieces today and it was very informative. Although I wouldn't say that the weather has NO effect but its clear from the guy's writing that it's not as important as it's sometimes made out to be. Still, the whole topic isn't too black-and-white even having read that and in the end people will just use what works for them, even if it is anecdotal (is that even the right word for this? 
)
)
godzilla
1 AYC Bar
- Location
- QLD / Tweed Coast
- First Name
- Trevor
- Drive
- 1/19 2002 FL Legnum Type 'S' Manual in Black with Suede Recaro's!
Are their prices inclusive of GST? If so, the MTG and SVG pricing is really good. The price on the SS 0w30 is getting up there though. I pay $82.50 inc for 5ltrs.
cyber_scriber
1 AYC Bar
- Location
- NSW
- First Name
- Bruce
- Drive
- 2000 Galant; metallic dark blue; manual; Recaros; Momo steering wheel; and sunroof!
Yep, that's why I posted the link
Here are some excerpts for those with short attention spans:
Oils are chosen by the manufacturer to give the right thickness at the normal operating temperature of the engine. I will say this average oil temperature is 212 F, the boiling point of water. On the track that temperature is up to 302F. It is important to realize that these are two different operating environments and require different oils.
One thing that is no longer important is the ambient temperature. Older automotive owner manuals often recommended one oil for the summer and another for the winter. This is still necessary for air cooled engines but is no longer a consideration in pressurized water cooled engines. These engine blocks are kept at around 212 F all year round. The oil is around the same temperature as well. This allows for a single grade oil all year round. Again, this is not the same as on the track where the coolant temperature is slightly higher and the oil temperature is much higher.
The engine is designed to run at 212 F at all external temperatures from Alaska to Florida. You can get in your car in Florida in September and drive zig-zag to Alaska arriving in November.
We left off discussing that a 0W-30 grade oil is not thinner than a 10W-30 oil. They both have the same thickness at operating temperature. The 0W-30 simply does not get as thick on cooling as the 10W-30. Both are still way to thick to lubricate an engine at startup.
A 10W-30 multi-grade mineral based oil is made from a 10 grade oil and has VI improvers added to thicken the product in a 212 F engine. It acts as a 30 grade oil when hot. It acts more as a 10 grade oil at startup. I remind you that a 10 or 5 or 2 grade oil is still too thick to provide lubrication at startup. They are all too thick at startup. There is currently no engine oil thin enough to operate correctly at startup. They all cause excessive wear at startup. Again, we are discussing the needs of my single hypothetical engine for around town driving.
People sometimes use a thicker oil to minimize gasket leaks. This seems obvious to me. Repair the gasket. Do not destroy your engine with an oil that is too thick for proper function.
I truly believe that oil is much better being too thin than too thick. Over the years we have been going to thinner and thinner oils despite hotter engines with turbos and the like. The tendency is that people figure they need a 40 grade oils but then use a 50 instead. Better thinking is that if you think you need a 40, use a 30 grade oil instead. I firmly believe this based on all I know about oils.
These same rules apply to engines of any age, loose or tight. Just because your engine is old does not mean it needs a thicker oil. It will need a thicker oil only if it is overly worn, whether new or old.
People say that their old car manual says to use a 10W-40 so they would never think of using a 0W-40. Again, both are the same viscosity at normal engine operating temperature. The 0W-40 just does not thicken as much after you turn off your engine. There are now several cases when manuals for older cars have been updated to reflect this. My 550 Ferrari Maranello manual said to use 5W-40 yet the 575 manual says to use the 0W-40. The engines are the same except the 575 has more BHP. It has better acceleration and more top speed. The engines have the same tolerances.
All manufacturers I have seen are specifying 0W-XX or 5W-XX oils now. Honda, Ferrari, Ford, Mercedes, Porsche, and others specify a 0 or 5W-XX oil to mention a few. These are appropriate for all engines of all ages of all levels of wear. This second number is the only thing that may change with an older, lose or worn engine. This can only be determined by experimentation. If you are using XW-50, go to a 0W-40. If your pressures are still too high go to a 0W-30 and so on.
Older engines may in fact benefit from thinner oil use. Over time permanent deposits of carbon and sludge build up in the engine oil ways. It is like a clogging of arteries in humans. We are now all on blood thinners.
I have always used oils that were a grade thinner than recommended even though many use a grade thicker than recommended. I showed evidence that the starting grade should always be 0 or 5 (0W-XX or 5W-XX for thicker oils). If you want the best protection and highest output from your motor use a synthetic based oil.
It challenges a lot of perceptions that have been entrenched from word of mouth and the interwebz.
Here are some excerpts for those with short attention spans:
Oils are chosen by the manufacturer to give the right thickness at the normal operating temperature of the engine. I will say this average oil temperature is 212 F, the boiling point of water. On the track that temperature is up to 302F. It is important to realize that these are two different operating environments and require different oils.
One thing that is no longer important is the ambient temperature. Older automotive owner manuals often recommended one oil for the summer and another for the winter. This is still necessary for air cooled engines but is no longer a consideration in pressurized water cooled engines. These engine blocks are kept at around 212 F all year round. The oil is around the same temperature as well. This allows for a single grade oil all year round. Again, this is not the same as on the track where the coolant temperature is slightly higher and the oil temperature is much higher.
The engine is designed to run at 212 F at all external temperatures from Alaska to Florida. You can get in your car in Florida in September and drive zig-zag to Alaska arriving in November.
We left off discussing that a 0W-30 grade oil is not thinner than a 10W-30 oil. They both have the same thickness at operating temperature. The 0W-30 simply does not get as thick on cooling as the 10W-30. Both are still way to thick to lubricate an engine at startup.
A 10W-30 multi-grade mineral based oil is made from a 10 grade oil and has VI improvers added to thicken the product in a 212 F engine. It acts as a 30 grade oil when hot. It acts more as a 10 grade oil at startup. I remind you that a 10 or 5 or 2 grade oil is still too thick to provide lubrication at startup. They are all too thick at startup. There is currently no engine oil thin enough to operate correctly at startup. They all cause excessive wear at startup. Again, we are discussing the needs of my single hypothetical engine for around town driving.
People sometimes use a thicker oil to minimize gasket leaks. This seems obvious to me. Repair the gasket. Do not destroy your engine with an oil that is too thick for proper function.
I truly believe that oil is much better being too thin than too thick. Over the years we have been going to thinner and thinner oils despite hotter engines with turbos and the like. The tendency is that people figure they need a 40 grade oils but then use a 50 instead. Better thinking is that if you think you need a 40, use a 30 grade oil instead. I firmly believe this based on all I know about oils.
These same rules apply to engines of any age, loose or tight. Just because your engine is old does not mean it needs a thicker oil. It will need a thicker oil only if it is overly worn, whether new or old.
People say that their old car manual says to use a 10W-40 so they would never think of using a 0W-40. Again, both are the same viscosity at normal engine operating temperature. The 0W-40 just does not thicken as much after you turn off your engine. There are now several cases when manuals for older cars have been updated to reflect this. My 550 Ferrari Maranello manual said to use 5W-40 yet the 575 manual says to use the 0W-40. The engines are the same except the 575 has more BHP. It has better acceleration and more top speed. The engines have the same tolerances.
All manufacturers I have seen are specifying 0W-XX or 5W-XX oils now. Honda, Ferrari, Ford, Mercedes, Porsche, and others specify a 0 or 5W-XX oil to mention a few. These are appropriate for all engines of all ages of all levels of wear. This second number is the only thing that may change with an older, lose or worn engine. This can only be determined by experimentation. If you are using XW-50, go to a 0W-40. If your pressures are still too high go to a 0W-30 and so on.
Older engines may in fact benefit from thinner oil use. Over time permanent deposits of carbon and sludge build up in the engine oil ways. It is like a clogging of arteries in humans. We are now all on blood thinners.
I have always used oils that were a grade thinner than recommended even though many use a grade thicker than recommended. I showed evidence that the starting grade should always be 0 or 5 (0W-XX or 5W-XX for thicker oils). If you want the best protection and highest output from your motor use a synthetic based oil.
It challenges a lot of perceptions that have been entrenched from word of mouth and the interwebz.
Yeah his prices are inclusive.
As for the SS 0W30, buying by the quart does that to the price. If he supplied 5L bottles, I would probably buy engine oil through him too.
bradc
1 AYC Bar
Clearly that steve knight guy knows something about tuning. however he doesn't know anything about oil viscosity demands of cars and using 10w50 on a road going legnum is simply moronic.
Would it be ok to use a GL4/GL5 oil like this http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60162-gulf-competition-75w-90.aspx in the rear differential and transfer box as opposed to a straight GL5 as listed at the start of the thread ?
Have been searching everywhere but cant find an answer
cheers
Have been searching everywhere but cant find an answer
cheers
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