Strengthening the automatic transmission on the cheap

[Guest]

If you get those screws welded there won't be any reason to remove them again. Because if your planetary carrier does ever break, then it will be time to chuck out the whole carrier.

 

[stormboy]

Have had a decent read and if i get it right u were able to install the 2nd brake retainer without taking the valve body cover off, but it is recommended that is easier to actually remove the valve body cover than risk damaging the brake retainer?

The very fine ruler to hold it down while the other plates slide over the top as in this thread earlier seemed like a gd solution, do u really think the valve body has to come off or with care....?

 

[Guest]

I haven't really mentioned it because a lot of preparation is needed and also getting the seal orientation correct is difficult. Spend the extra time and do it via the valve body and you can be 100% sure everything is put together properly. Because if you stuff it up it will stave crucial parts of the transmission of oil and, aside from potential damage, you will find that your transmission simply does not work.

 

[tommy86]

Big thanks to the guys doing the pioneering on this gearbox fix, wondering if any people in Sydney can recommend workshops to do this work?

 

[stormboy]

finally got to mine. After taking all the bits and pieces out, spotted the wave spring - about to grab it and remove when it promptly fell in 4 bits (45,250Km on odo). All going together smoothly so far, hopefully all together tomorrow and a trans cooler in as well if lucky. Thanks for the write up made it feel much safer

 

[Guest]

Excellent, it just goes to show the problem lurking in these transmissions is unrelated to mileage and that a car that may feel totally normal to drive one second may suddenly grind to a halt the next.

Getting everything lines up with the clutch plates can be frustrating, but take your time, observe what is happening & why. I found it a bit like cracking a safe, just slowly are carefully rotate things, perhaps with a slight jiggle, and it all falls into place. Don't forget to lube everything up along the way. Not that you can help not too, the ATF just seems to keep on weeping out of the box for days and gets everywhere.

If you have any problems, stop and post them in this thread. I have lots of photos so probably have one of wherever you get stuck, that may help you out.

 

[stormboy]

ok got it back together and put in a trans cooler as well. Started up, up and down driveway a bit for starters, then round the block, after the first up and down seemed to be reaonably smooth, though i have no reference as i hadn't driven it prior to tearing it down.

So i feel like it's alright - what is scaring me is the orange light on the dash, what iassume is the gearbox symbol won't go off?! Any ideas? Only driven it for 10 mins, but up and down gently through gears so would have thought the oil would be everywhere by now?

will post OWC code on other thread later

 

[smohekey]

I'm guessing that's the check engine light you're seeing. There's a thread on here somewhere that details how you can obtain the diagnostic codes from the car.

 

[Guest]

Yes, find out the diagnostic codes, it's pretty easy. I'm wondering if you haven't correctly reconnected a solenoid or the valve body temperature sensor. But you say that it's shifting between all gears fine?

I'm sure there was a better, more complet thread about the codes, but try this one below for starters. Basically you have to bridge pins 1 & 4 on the diagnostic connector, count the dash light flashes, and look them up in the chart.

http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?2415-Diagnostic-Codes-The-Full-List

 

[stormboy]

going out to have a lk at that now. All gears shift fine. Since i've been working on other bits as well i might just have a gd lk at all the vacum hoses, clamps and so forth.

 

[Guest]

Main Seal Job

I own a 96 auto legnum and it appears the main seal has gone. Does anyone recommend someone in Perth that could do the job? Also, while the gearbox is out, what else would be a good idea to get done for the long term?

Would appreciate any help on this. Cheers.

 

[Slinz]

Don't know about a workshop but have a read through this for the stuff that we in SA had done, and were considering. http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?9560-Auto-Trans-fix-Group-Buy-MV-Automatics

 

[Guest]

Thanks Tom, had a read through and it will be very helpful.

 

[Guest]

Is there a good place you have found to get parts from?

 

[Slinz]

The workshop sourced practically all of the parts, EXCEPT the rear main engine seal, which I picked up from the closest Mitsubishi dealer with a servicing/parts facility. Take in your VIN and they should be able to give you most of the parts you'll need, otherwise check the start of this thread for the order numbers from Mitsu (NZ?). If you find a good trans workshop they should be able to source most or all of the parts cheaper than you could get them anyway.

 

[engie tommo]

So looks like I need to replace my Torque Converter to Block gasket as it's dropping a couple of drops . Checked the bolt torques and they're all good, so pretty sure the gasket's gone. I've been thinking though that while I've got the trans out I may as well have a look at the wave spring. Being a 2001 model, I'd assume that it's the solid one already, but while it's out, there's no harm in going in there to be sure.

Also going to see if I can get the carrier pins welded in and look into the MV Automatics quick shift. Bit of preventative maintenance never goes astray

From reading a couple places it sounds like people recommend changing over the rear main seal while in there and applying Loctite or something similar to prevent it from rotating in the block. Anyone recommend a particular version of Loctite? I've had a look on their site and it looks like 609 or 680 are their two automotive retaining compounds. Comparing the 2 I'd go with the 680 due to it's better hot strength and heat aging characteristics, anyone see any wrong thinking there or have anything better they can recommend?

Also is there anything else I should look at while it's out? Possibly replace the internal filter? I think I remember there being something in this thread about it being a bit of a dodgy design, been a while since I read through it though. Is it possible to retrofit an external filter and would there be any benefit?

And finally for those that are interested, I've uploaded the F/W5A51 overhaul and service manuals in the workshop manual thread as well as the prop shaft manual. Got them from the TJ AWD workshop manuals, thank you Mitsi Aus . Could you please update the link in your 1st post to point to it? And thanks for all the work you've already done to identify the problem, the repair and the replacement parts.

 

[Guest]

There's no "converter to block gasket" so that won't be the trouble. There is an oil seal on the shaft between the torque converter and transmission that you can't see or get at without removing the transmission from the vehicle. This will have come unseated and be causing your problem, if it indeed is ATF that you are seeing leaking.

Loctite 603 was the most promising retaining compound I could come up with and has been discussed in the other Automatic Transmission Thread.

I have a 2001 delivered model (12/2000) and had the shitty wave spring.

If you are removing the box then yes, you should replace your filter.

There is also a rebuild kit for these boxes available from Cobra Transmissions. One of our members took delivery of this and I was helping them with the rebuild. Unfortunately, it many of the parts appear sub-standard and some don't even fit!

Sorry, I won't update the link to the manuals in my first post, as this whole thread has references to sections from the version that I posted and I don't want to confuse things.

 

[headcheck]

Some extra info that I got in regards to the valve gasket.

View attachment 8962

 

[Guest]

Thanks for that Khanh. It's good to see an English confirmation of this, as it sounded a little suspicious in the Japanese translation from ASA a while back.. but there you go.

http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread....n-on-the-cheap&p=151612&viewfull=1#post151612

 

[engie tommo]

So finally got around to doing this job and looks like I've been a victim of the shitty wave spring as well. Also found it in pieces in there which really made my weekend. I've managed to find most of it but I think I'm missing a small section. Does anyone know how many full turns a complete one is meant to make? From the pictures I've see it appears to be 2 full turns, does that sound right?

Since I'm taking out the trans to do the torque converter seal (thanks for pointing that one out for me) I'll be having a poke around to see if I can find the remainder of it...

Regarding the gasket I asked Bill for pricing for it and he didn't have any in stock and attached this

with his reply. Also gotta say Bill was damn easy to deal with and postage only took about 3 days to get here . Can't complain about that.