Engine Oils - Whats Good/Whats Bad

[trounced]

ive been lucky my car its done over 125,000km's and doesnt seem to make any of the top end engine noise that most of you guys seem to be talking about.

i am using Valvoline Durablend, and it seems great, that review (although not tested exactly how it should be) said that it was a good oil its a 5w40 i think but seems to be doing the job well plus its only $40 a 5ltr

 

[SiliconAngel]

You might be lucky enough to have gotten a car with recently replaced lifters, Wes

 

[trounced]

maybe i gues i have been incredibly lucky with this this its price was unbeatable on a car i was told was never to be found with these combo's and it seems to have been incredibly well looked after.

only problem is i am worried if i ever try to upgrade i might end up with a dog lol

 

[jungle]

Is Lumpy still around? he used to be at hyperdrive, but i thought he buggered off up to the mines or something.

Nah Mitch he's still around, I was talking to him on Thursday. He's left the drift team and is doing his own thing again

 

[Guest]

I would recommend a semi synth or fully synth. Try a aussie company called Gulf Western as they have a department that creates oils for the motor racing scene they have got a oil called S5000 that is the best on the market at the moment it has been produced with a molecule strength twice that of other fully synth oils and they have produced it for the drifting scene. As well they have a fully synth oil for the the more intense pro drifting in japan called M6000 it is the best oil I have come across and there is no friction modifier in the oils as the other brands have so if the urge for friction modifiers grabs you you are able to with out destroying the oil (this happens with other oils and most people wont even know but it is doing more damage then good).
But most of all choose the right one for the climate you are in. S5000 is 15w50 and M6000 is 5w40. For the hotter climates they have a mineral oil that is a 20w60 perfect for the hotter running engine and climates, this oil is used by the Shepard brothers (drag racing legends).

 

[SiliconAngel]

On the subject of so-called 'racing' oils, that's a bit of a misnomer.

Keep in mind, race teams strip engines down after every meet. So what does a race team look for in an oil? Maximum shear strength and lubrication and usually low cost. Stability is almost a non-issue, because the oil only has to last the duration of the race. That's hardly the 5 or 10,000kms most people will expect their oil to last in their street cars, and nothing like hundreds of thousands of kms...

I'm sure some of you will look at the 'low cost' bit and say most race teams are sponsored, but in fact MOST race teams aren't, and certainly not to the extent that all their oils are provided for free. Sure international top class teams are, but your state and national teams are very cost conscious - why would they spend $120 on oil that's going to be in the car for a few hours, when they can spend $40 for the same result?

Race teams will look for an oil that provides maximum protection for the duration of a race. They couldn't care less about stability (as long as the oil doesn't coke up or something during a race, of course!). Royal Purple shines in this scenario, but stick it in your street car and expect it to last 10,000kms and you'll be getting a lot more engine wear than you bargained for...

BTW I'm not knocking your recommendation for Gulf Western, Tom - I haven't seen any data on that brand one way or the other. Just pointing out that the choice of race teams for their application is quite different to what we need for our cars.

 

[Guest]

True I did not think of that. Most drift teams are keeping the engines until they blow so the M6000 and S5000 that has been devolved for them should be good for 5000km's and if you are doing any more then that between services on your turbo engine you need your head read!! For the sake of $60 extra every 12 months who cares! But most important use what you know is good not what is cheep.

 

[Guest]

where can you get the S5000 from tommo?
my local supercheap had gulf western 20w50, and its was $9.95 for 4L!!

 

[Hipsi]

or perhaps M5000 and S6000. I'm going to grab 5L of the M5000 I think. Autobarn carry it.

 

[Robotnik123]

I wanted to try Pennzoil Platinum 5W-40 but none of the stores that i have rang over here even have it on the books only Pennzoils mineral range. Has anyone tried Pennzoil oils before wouldnt mind some opinions on it, good or bad. I have been using Castrol Edge 5W-30 and not happy with how it performs car is very ticky on start up.

Hi old thread, I know.

Just wanted to say that for my previous two oil changes I've been using Pennzoil Plat 5W-40 in my VR-4. However, this change I swapped it for Castrol Edge 5W-30 and the car definitely sounds a lot more ticky. However, when I changed out the Pennzoil after 7,000kms, it was very black which may or may not mean anything.

Anyway, I've just got some Amsoil 0W-30 synthetic which is supposed to be very good and may get rid of my ticks. Note I am in New Zealand and for you guys in Aussie a heavier grade Amsoil might be appropriate, because of the hotter weather.

 

[jungle]

Race teams will look for an oil that provides maximum protection for the duration of a race. They couldn't care less about stability (as long as the oil doesn't coke up or something during a race, of course!). Royal Purple shines in this scenario, but stick it in your street car and expect it to last 10,000kms and you'll be getting a lot more engine wear than you bargained for...

BTW I'm not knocking your recommendation for Gulf Western, Tom - I haven't seen any data on that brand one way or the other. Just pointing out that the choice of race teams for their application is quite different to what we need for our cars.

Can you expand on what you mean when you say "Royal Purple shines in this scenario, but stick it in your street car and expect it to last 10,000kms and you'll be getting a lot more engine wear than you bargained for... "


and where you are getting your info from??

 

[SiliconAngel]

Simon Royal Purple performs extremely well in some short duration applications due to certain additives they use, but they don't have a stable mixture and the oil breaks down extremely quickly, so you go from a lube to useless tar in a short period of time.

I've read a couple of studies showing this (and the few areas it performs well are exactly what they focus on in their marketing, surprise surprise). I just found this one (although it's a gear oil review, it's still a telling article) which is on the Amsoil website - even though it's on a competitor's site it was an independant study and if they were claiming anything that wasn't true there's no way those other companies would allow them to use it. It's also one of the most thorough reports I've ever seen.

 

[jungle]

Yes, i've also seen results where RP comes out on top.
But its gear oil. I use RP in my engine on my race car and although my turbo died last weekend, it was a water blockage that contributed to its demise, not the oil.

There will always be swayed results when oil companies commission tests to show how their oil is better.

The most telling result I've seen is still one by Queensland University on Roil Gold- yes an additive not an oil. Unfortunately the link is no longer valid so i can list it here for you to read.

But that said, i change the engine oil in my car after EVERY track-day. It's simple/cheap insurance.

 

[Guest]

The Gulf Western Oils are available at Auto Barn or I can find out the closest retailer or wholesaler email me your suburb and state and i will send back the sellers details. tommyjames25 at hotmail.com . I am also able to get Roil Gold if anyone would like. Sorry for the M and S mix up you are right Trav

 

[Guest]

Gulf Western make a full synthetic (G1) 10w-60. They are in Oakliegh street Malaga. Tell Frank you are a mate of the bloke with the aeroplane. Take cash.

 

[Hipsi]

before too long I'll have stock of Gulf Western Sougi M5000. 10W40 premium synth developed for high performance jap crap, specifically turbo. It's going in my car this week

 

[Guest]

just did a oil change on my VR4,
i had quite bad lifter noise,

i was using royal purple (10w40) and lucas oil stabiliser
the lifters were very loud using this mix

I've switched to valvoline lo-vis 10w30 and Pro-ma mbl8
pro-ma is the only additive i would now recommend for lifters/tappets

the noise is now virtually non-existent,

it costs $35nz delivered for a 250ml bottle,
100ml per oil change, (or 125ml max if the lifters are real bad)
so its good for 2 - 2&1/2 oil changes.

highly recommend this for those people not wanting to pay for amsoil.
brilliant product!

heres what to look for

heres how to use it...

 

[Taraska]

I will change my oil on Sunday. Has anyone used this one? Penrite Sin engine oil 10. 10w70 Guy at autobarn recomened it to me. Its about $72.
What do you guys think?

 

[bradc]

10w70 is WAY to thick. Get 5w40 at the thickest

 

[Hipsi]

DUDE! as Brad said, don't even consider what those part time Dominos drivers say at Autobarn. Your best source of advice is right here or CVR4. Mate, just pick up a bottle of GW. $45 at Autobarn for the M5000 and it will do the job perfectly.