This is what happens if you don't replace your control arms (or go aftermarket)
- Thread starter naughtika
- Start date
Skippy
Leaving Skid Marks
Gt_Galant
EC5A
Chris (AKKO) - Just out of curiosity i read you said that you already replaced your control arm's with genuine and they even failed.
But looking at the pictures you posted, that straight control arm doesn't look genuine ? Because looking at the picture you posted of the left side, the front rubber bushing normally the genuine one is actually on a angle and you can tell straight away its on a angle but the picture shows its flush and also the bottom on the LCA (where the ball joint is) is kinda bubbled (is curved out) when the genuine is just straight (and normally has that white rubber).
I'm not being a smart-ass (sorry if i come across that way haha) but was just curious because they look different to my MR296295.
Unless its the old style ? but i remember the old style also has the bushing on a angle and the one you have looks flush ? i mean it could be the picture you taken i can't tell
You got better pictures of the actual arm once it's off ? Again i could be over thinking which i normally do haha
But looking at the pictures you posted, that straight control arm doesn't look genuine ? Because looking at the picture you posted of the left side, the front rubber bushing normally the genuine one is actually on a angle and you can tell straight away its on a angle but the picture shows its flush and also the bottom on the LCA (where the ball joint is) is kinda bubbled (is curved out) when the genuine is just straight (and normally has that white rubber).
I'm not being a smart-ass (sorry if i come across that way haha) but was just curious because they look different to my MR296295.
Unless its the old style ? but i remember the old style also has the bushing on a angle and the one you have looks flush ? i mean it could be the picture you taken i can't tell
You got better pictures of the actual arm once it's off ? Again i could be over thinking which i normally do haha
Gt_Galant
EC5A
Oooohhhhhhhhhhh sorry i must have read it wrong
sorry Chris haha - should really pay attention to what im reading next time hahaAgain sorry to hear hopefully you can source those parts your after soon and get your car up and running
- Location
- NSW
- First Name
- Steve
- Drive
- 2010 nt did pajero tow car / 2000 6spd gc8 wrx tarmac rally car / 2000 Manual Subaru Outback 2.5 just a car
So we have a known solution that works with the current multilink setup, that is to replace the arms with genuine ones every few years. And some of you seem so set on changing to custom made mcpherson strut setup, seriously, it's a step backwards (mcpherson strut is cheap to produce, doesn't take up much space, is not necessarily a good design for handling, kind of suits shopping trolley cars like um.... Lancers. but it must be good cos evo's use it right? wrong, as good as they are, they're just based on garden variety Lancers).
And if we do this, hurrah, we'll be able to buy all sorts of aftermarket evo stuff, except that to get to this point you have custom made the front end so you could make it all adjustable on the way and not need any more aftermarket parts anyway. And who is going to design all of this? Who is going to ensure it will not fail and kill people. Who has not only the FEA ability but the ability to work out all the loads and forces involved? Who understands suspension geometry enough to design a system from scratch with the confidence it won't handle like a bucket of crap?
Sorry to bang on about this but every time there is a failure it's brought up again (and this time it was NON OEM arms that failed) and I can see it going horribly wrong.
Has ANYONE had OEM arms fail in the first few years since replacement? So replace them every say 3 years? It's really not that expensive to do, less than a dollar a day, way less. As opposed to spending thousands on a completely new and untested front end.
I simply don't get it.
Again, these ones that failed were non OEM. The only OEM ones I know of failing have been well over 5 years old. replace them at 3 with OEM arms and no issues, ever.
And if we do this, hurrah, we'll be able to buy all sorts of aftermarket evo stuff, except that to get to this point you have custom made the front end so you could make it all adjustable on the way and not need any more aftermarket parts anyway. And who is going to design all of this? Who is going to ensure it will not fail and kill people. Who has not only the FEA ability but the ability to work out all the loads and forces involved? Who understands suspension geometry enough to design a system from scratch with the confidence it won't handle like a bucket of crap?
Sorry to bang on about this but every time there is a failure it's brought up again (and this time it was NON OEM arms that failed) and I can see it going horribly wrong.
Has ANYONE had OEM arms fail in the first few years since replacement? So replace them every say 3 years? It's really not that expensive to do, less than a dollar a day, way less. As opposed to spending thousands on a completely new and untested front end.
I simply don't get it.
Again, these ones that failed were non OEM. The only OEM ones I know of failing have been well over 5 years old. replace them at 3 with OEM arms and no issues, ever.
Gt_Galant
EC5A
Not trying to start anything ive owned my Galant about 5yrs and did change the straights probably 3yrs ago and have a picture in this thread on how they look, the arms were brought from Northshore Mitsubishi (Idiots but that's a different story) i cant remember the part no's to be honest because mine is a 7th Gen twin turbo Galant but i know they were genuine, and the new set i have are the same part no's as the 8th Gen.
Not saying everyone's genuine are going to look like mine but i was shocked when i seen how it looked and not because they were genuine but honestly its a scary thing to see and think what could have happened.
You'd be stupid to buy aftermarket or think about it but now when install these straight i will inspect them every year.
Edit: Plus i think when we lower our car it doesn't help the life of these arms.
Not saying everyone's genuine are going to look like mine but i was shocked when i seen how it looked and not because they were genuine but honestly its a scary thing to see and think what could have happened.
You'd be stupid to buy aftermarket or think about it but now when install these straight i will inspect them every year.
Edit: Plus i think when we lower our car it doesn't help the life of these arms.
- Location
- NSW
- First Name
- Steve
- Drive
- 2010 nt did pajero tow car / 2000 6spd gc8 wrx tarmac rally car / 2000 Manual Subaru Outback 2.5 just a car
Now that is a first! Would be nice to know if they were the same part numbers. And did they definitely give you genuine arms? Did they have mitsubishi stickers on them? Mine were changed almost 3 years ago and they look fine. I've also done 100k and it was lowered and it didn't really have an easy life.... is there anyone else witha short life span genuine arm?
Gt_Galant
EC5A
Na they were definitely genuine (i didnt pay for a big order for cheap parts), because i order a few things and took 16 weeks to arrive and they kept on giving me some bulls**t story why they haven't arrived and when i called the guy that ordered my order was out or having lunch or with a customer when they were supposed be here in 4 to 6 weeks as promised, because in that order was a full engine overhaul kit and was missing a few bit of parts all had the Mitsubishi labelling on them, was a very disappointing experience with them and never again and would never recommend with that store !
Doubt i still have the invoice for them but my left side still has the Mitsubishi sticker on the control arm but you can't even read the number because its faded so much you cant see it.
But hopefully tomorrow the mechanic will install them for me .
I just got a question.......
Now when you install new control arm (lets just say all 4 fronts) do you notice a big difference in driving ? smoother ? does it feel better when you go over speedbumps or small cracks on the roads ? Or is it kinda the same but knowing they are new and will last longer ? Maybe a stupid question but thought i'd ask, because sometimes you can change stuff to newer parts you don't notice any change .
Thanks
Doubt i still have the invoice for them but my left side still has the Mitsubishi sticker on the control arm but you can't even read the number because its faded so much you cant see it.
But hopefully tomorrow the mechanic will install them for me .
I just got a question.......
Now when you install new control arm (lets just say all 4 fronts) do you notice a big difference in driving ? smoother ? does it feel better when you go over speedbumps or small cracks on the roads ? Or is it kinda the same but knowing they are new and will last longer ? Maybe a stupid question but thought i'd ask, because sometimes you can change stuff to newer parts you don't notice any change .
Thanks
- Location
- NSW
- First Name
- Steve
- Drive
- 2010 nt did pajero tow car / 2000 6spd gc8 wrx tarmac rally car / 2000 Manual Subaru Outback 2.5 just a car
Interesting, very interesting.... Was there any evidence of the dust boot being split etc? What's left of it looks fairly aged in the pic.... Mine look close to new 3 years on.
As for feeling different, I would say if they are stuffed you will notice a difference, no clunks etc (unless something else is wrong), if I replaced mine now, I doubt it would feel different with only 3 years in the bushes and the ball joints seemingly in good condition.
As for feeling different, I would say if they are stuffed you will notice a difference, no clunks etc (unless something else is wrong), if I replaced mine now, I doubt it would feel different with only 3 years in the bushes and the ball joints seemingly in good condition.
- Location
- ormeau@gc.qld.au
- First Name
- Matt :)
- Drive
- 1963 Toyota Lite-Stout & 2007 Toyota Blade Master G
Yes, I've noticed a hell of a difference. I replaced both straight & curved lower arms, link rods and top small arms (ball jointy bit, not whole upper arms) and it's nice, smooth & tight... just how I like it. Turns effortlessly as well
Removed and inspected my failed L/H front LCA late this afternoon. It was so dry, like gun powder in there and the white nylon cup section looked split 4-ways whether by design or not I'm not sure.
Also compared to the genuine arms I've had sitting in the shed these past 2-years waiting to be fitted, they're not the same but I knew that already.
Also compared to the genuine arms I've had sitting in the shed these past 2-years waiting to be fitted, they're not the same but I knew that already.
mookers
puri puri
- Location
- Frankston, Melbourne, VIC
- First Name
- Derek
- Drive
- CL9 Accord Euro Lux, GE Jazz VTi, Evil Supervillain Chair, Homemade Portable Square Drumkit
I've had the front guards off before. You don't need to remove the door, but you do need to remove the sideskirt, which is kind of a pain.
Yeah had to take the side skirt off, just a few screws for that... I just recall that how I gained access to one of the bolts to remove it was only possible because the guard was buckled so doing in reverse could be interesting.
dwarfmarine
1 AYC Bar
- Location
- Windsor, NSW
- First Name
- Cameron
- Drive
- Previous: Black PFL Legnum
Current: TD5 Land Rover Disco
just curious,
is this 'accident' covered by full comp insurance? or does it come under mechanical fault (out of pocket repairs)
is this 'accident' covered by full comp insurance? or does it come under mechanical fault (out of pocket repairs)
Wear and tear consumable, won't be covered.
I'd imagine the only scenario in which you'd bother getting insurance involved was if the car was still under new vehicle warranty and failure was caused by manufacturing fault.
I'd imagine the only scenario in which you'd bother getting insurance involved was if the car was still under new vehicle warranty and failure was caused by manufacturing fault.
