Kenneth
1 AYC Bar
What tyres do you have, what age are they and how much wear? It doesn't matter how good your brakes are, its your tyres that will ultimately determine if you can stop fast.
If it was indeed your ABS that was going and the car did not feel like you were stopping, then its more likely your tyres that need replacing.
You will stop faster with $1000 of tyres and $100 of brake pads than you will on $1000 of brembo upgrade and $500 of tyres. I guarantee it.
Unless you are going on track, brembos are over sized. A lot of people complain of brembo squeel which is a primary indicator that they don't sustain sufficient heat to get proper pad compound transfer onto the disks.
If it was indeed your ABS that was going and the car did not feel like you were stopping, then its more likely your tyres that need replacing.
You will stop faster with $1000 of tyres and $100 of brake pads than you will on $1000 of brembo upgrade and $500 of tyres. I guarantee it.
Unless you are going on track, brembos are over sized. A lot of people complain of brembo squeel which is a primary indicator that they don't sustain sufficient heat to get proper pad compound transfer onto the disks.
mookers
puri puri
- Location
- Frankston, Melbourne, VIC
- First Name
- Derek
- Drive
- CL9 Accord Euro Lux, GE Jazz VTi, Evil Supervillain Chair, Homemade Portable Square Drumkit
Gents I think it was touched on in this thread but is there any definite answer if brembos will fit under factory 16s? There's a few evos running 16s with brembos but obviously it depends on the individual rim. I have the bbs forgies and like the idea of keepin granny spec 16s and squeezing brembos under them.
karl_2ltgc
Hesitantly Boosting
If thats correct, then this should suit the front end - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ARP-CHRO...76?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item3f47596e80
Just not sure about the 10.9 rating?
http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail-b.php?RecordID=3057
In his best star wars voice "This is not the fitment that you are looking for"
hah yeah probably not. But this is a mega tight arse project so brembos and new rims are out of the equation.
- Location
- NSW
- First Name
- Steve
- Drive
- 2001 ADM Evo 6.5 Makinen Edition,
2001 Legnum VR-4 Type S Written off,
2000 Legnum VR-4 Type S Manual with 23,489km!!
Just a bit of an update..... 6+ months post Brembo conversion...
well ....regarding the squealing issue.... yes it's loud.. and yes it's annoying as all hell..
it's been a cross between a train/bus/truck... deafening once they have a little heat in them.
To recap... Evo 5-9 brembos... RDA plain rotors 320mm fr 300mm rr (not dimpled/crossdrilled or slotted) with QFM HP-X pads all round.
Kumho KU36's all round... insanely capable tyre for grip and cornering ability but noisy as all hell!!!!! sounds like a wheel bearing that's shot...
Tried everything from that messy orange brake sealant stuff you put on the back of the pads, To project MU anti squeal shims ($$$ ouch!), taking away the stock silver 1/2 shims, to finally spraying "de-squeak" on the rotors... (someone say messy?!!!)
Bought a set of Genuine Brembo pads..machined the rotors (geeez they grip like all hell!!! but quite dusty which I don't mind as long as they quieten things down which they did.....for 300k's :/ )
anyhoo....each time it lasts about 50-300km's before squealing like a b@stard again.
I've succumbed to buying a set of genuine Mitsubishi Evo rotors from a wrecker to give them a shot and so far so good...if they work I'll purchase a set of brand spankers through Amayama...The ones I bought are just above min thickness... put the QFM HP-X pads back in with the Project MU anti squeal shims plus the silver half shims from the standard Evo setup.
I really don't want to turn anyone off doing this conversion as it's worth doing just to feel a car stop with such force it's insane! Seriously from 100kph to zero in what feels like 30 meters.... in dry weather with the KU36's it's brutal how quick this thing will stop... ABS doesn't even trigger lol....It's not that funny... more like "owwww" that seat belt actually stops me from leaving teeth marks on the dash!!!!
Anyway.. hoping one of you guys in VR-4 land have had better luck seeing what works and what doesn't.
I have heard RDA rotors do squeal a lot more as they are a much "harder" compound metal.... I know from my own Makinen Edition, that the stock rotors are softer (they wear away more than RDA's that's for sure with stock pads)
Fingers crossed....
well ....regarding the squealing issue.... yes it's loud.. and yes it's annoying as all hell..
it's been a cross between a train/bus/truck... deafening once they have a little heat in them.
To recap... Evo 5-9 brembos... RDA plain rotors 320mm fr 300mm rr (not dimpled/crossdrilled or slotted) with QFM HP-X pads all round.
Kumho KU36's all round... insanely capable tyre for grip and cornering ability but noisy as all hell!!!!! sounds like a wheel bearing that's shot...
Tried everything from that messy orange brake sealant stuff you put on the back of the pads, To project MU anti squeal shims ($$$ ouch!), taking away the stock silver 1/2 shims, to finally spraying "de-squeak" on the rotors... (someone say messy?!!!)
Bought a set of Genuine Brembo pads..machined the rotors (geeez they grip like all hell!!! but quite dusty which I don't mind as long as they quieten things down which they did.....for 300k's :/ )
anyhoo....each time it lasts about 50-300km's before squealing like a b@stard again.
I've succumbed to buying a set of genuine Mitsubishi Evo rotors from a wrecker to give them a shot and so far so good...if they work I'll purchase a set of brand spankers through Amayama...The ones I bought are just above min thickness... put the QFM HP-X pads back in with the Project MU anti squeal shims plus the silver half shims from the standard Evo setup.
I really don't want to turn anyone off doing this conversion as it's worth doing just to feel a car stop with such force it's insane! Seriously from 100kph to zero in what feels like 30 meters.... in dry weather with the KU36's it's brutal how quick this thing will stop... ABS doesn't even trigger lol....It's not that funny... more like "owwww" that seat belt actually stops me from leaving teeth marks on the dash!!!!
Anyway.. hoping one of you guys in VR-4 land have had better luck seeing what works and what doesn't.
I have heard RDA rotors do squeal a lot more as they are a much "harder" compound metal.... I know from my own Makinen Edition, that the stock rotors are softer (they wear away more than RDA's that's for sure with stock pads)
Fingers crossed....
vr4cobra
1 AYC Bar
Im running ku36's, rda slotted and dimpled rotors, project mu ns400 pads, and they used to squeel like a biatch till i put a generic pair anti squeal shims in the front only with high temp anti squeal grease and it quietened them down to no noise unless in reverse after 3000kms still great.
Btw this combination made alot of people white as a ghost at powercruise when i didnt break from 190km till at the entry of corners where the back end felt like it was floating
Hey if u cant beat them on the straights scare the crap out of them in the brakes and corners haha
Btw this combination made alot of people white as a ghost at powercruise when i didnt break from 190km till at the entry of corners where the back end felt like it was floating
Hey if u cant beat them on the straights scare the crap out of them in the brakes and corners haha
karl_2ltgc
Hesitantly Boosting
Does anyone know if the front Face lift abs sensors are same as any other mitsubishi, would there be locally sourced ABS sensors that are the same, magna/lancer/outlander etc?
With the Brembos I had massive amount of squealing, I finally used Copper anti seize and that would work for quite awhile. Then Techsport replaced the Pads for me during a service (about 70K ago) and now they will only sequel in reverse, not sure what the pads are but i can now drive with the window down if i want.
- Location
- NSW
- First Name
- Steve
- Drive
- 2001 ADM Evo 6.5 Makinen Edition,
2001 Legnum VR-4 Type S Written off,
2000 Legnum VR-4 Type S Manual with 23,489km!!
To fix the squealing issue... forever... no pastes, sprays or pad changes..
You need to replace the rotors with GENUINE Mitsubishi Evolution 5-9 rotors. there may be others that stop the squealing but it's costly to try all the after market rotors around for evos.
Part numbers are Front: MR370723 X 2
Rear: MR370724 X 02
Not cheap but that's why I got a set from a wrecker to test the water...
I bought a 2nd hand set and over 5000km I've done with them not even a slight squeal in forward or reverse... completely different story with the RDA's.
You need to replace the rotors with GENUINE Mitsubishi Evolution 5-9 rotors. there may be others that stop the squealing but it's costly to try all the after market rotors around for evos.
Part numbers are Front: MR370723 X 2
Rear: MR370724 X 02
Not cheap but that's why I got a set from a wrecker to test the water...
I bought a 2nd hand set and over 5000km I've done with them not even a slight squeal in forward or reverse... completely different story with the RDA's.
- Location
- NSW
- First Name
- Steve
- Drive
- 2010 nt did pajero tow car / 2000 6spd gc8 wrx tarmac rally car / 2000 Manual Subaru Outback 2.5 just a car
I've seen stock rotors squeal. The noise is from the pads chattering on the rotor with exact same force either side. Sometimes a machine fixes it. Sometimes it doesn't. Slightly different inner and outer, even half worn vs new inner and outer pads will stop it
Kenneth
1 AYC Bar
You will get brake squeal when the pad has not transferred its compound to the disk. Some pads (aggressive race pads usually) do not transfer any compound and will always squeal.
Each pad has a temperature at which it will do pad compound transfer. This is done in the bed in process initially, and then maintained by running the pads in their temperature range.
Since the disc is a primary factor in pad heat, if your discs are high performance items which dissipate heat quickly, it will be harder to maintain this heat.
If you cannot maintain the temperature required by the pad, you will eventually scrub the pad compound off disc surface and get squeal.
You can put the pad compound back on by doing the bedding in process again.
You can tell when the pad compound transfer has happened because the disc surface looks grey and there is no shine to it.
I got this information from watching the videos here: http://www.essexparts.com/learning-center/cat/brake-rotors I don't recall if AP Racing is a sponsor if the guy is from AP Racing, either way its the best and most complete video / instructions I have found.
I have been a running pad compound / slotted disc combo which was known to be very noisy. Following the above process I have been enjoying squeal free braking. Before knowing this I got squeal even on the OEM Brembo setup. I attribute this to the driving style I use which doesn't rely much on brakes for general driving.
Each pad has a temperature at which it will do pad compound transfer. This is done in the bed in process initially, and then maintained by running the pads in their temperature range.
Since the disc is a primary factor in pad heat, if your discs are high performance items which dissipate heat quickly, it will be harder to maintain this heat.
If you cannot maintain the temperature required by the pad, you will eventually scrub the pad compound off disc surface and get squeal.
You can put the pad compound back on by doing the bedding in process again.
You can tell when the pad compound transfer has happened because the disc surface looks grey and there is no shine to it.
I got this information from watching the videos here: http://www.essexparts.com/learning-center/cat/brake-rotors I don't recall if AP Racing is a sponsor if the guy is from AP Racing, either way its the best and most complete video / instructions I have found.
I have been a running pad compound / slotted disc combo which was known to be very noisy. Following the above process I have been enjoying squeal free braking. Before knowing this I got squeal even on the OEM Brembo setup. I attribute this to the driving style I use which doesn't rely much on brakes for general driving.
Kenneth
1 AYC Bar
Have you checked the wheel bearings?
If not wheel bearings give your calipers a good check (check the bolts are torqued and have adequate clearance to the disc surface. standard brembo bolts will go through and hit the discs if not shortened.)
Take out the pads and check for contaminants such as small stones etc (discs would likely have grooves too)
- Location
- NSW
- First Name
- Steve
- Drive
- 2001 ADM Evo 6.5 Makinen Edition,
2001 Legnum VR-4 Type S Written off,
2000 Legnum VR-4 Type S Manual with 23,489km!!
Thanks for sharing the info @Kenneth !!
I tried bedding in, thrashing, remachining the rotors I had (RDA plain type) ... all to no avail.... tried different pad compounds from QFM HP-X to Brembo branded pads (Dusty as F#$k) Even bought the Project Mu anti squeal Shims.. (Damn Pricey) again all lasted about 100-200km...
installed some OEM Evo rotors and scuffed up the QFM HP-X's on some flat concrete (As I'd done many times to stop the squeal) and have had no problems since the install.... Saving to buy some brand new OEM's via Amayama to go on the Evo and the evo ones (20,000km old) to go on the Leggie. work out at $1080 for all 4 brand new plus delivery.
@pretzil I've had that sound before... it's the pads.. wouldn't worry about it mate.. If you machine the rotors and scuff the pads it may stop for a while.. but in all honesty I wouldn't worry.... unless it's a heavy grinding scary sound.. light noises I wouldn't worry.
I tried bedding in, thrashing, remachining the rotors I had (RDA plain type) ... all to no avail.... tried different pad compounds from QFM HP-X to Brembo branded pads (Dusty as F#$k) Even bought the Project Mu anti squeal Shims.. (Damn Pricey) again all lasted about 100-200km...
installed some OEM Evo rotors and scuffed up the QFM HP-X's on some flat concrete (As I'd done many times to stop the squeal) and have had no problems since the install.... Saving to buy some brand new OEM's via Amayama to go on the Evo and the evo ones (20,000km old) to go on the Leggie. work out at $1080 for all 4 brand new plus delivery.
@pretzil I've had that sound before... it's the pads.. wouldn't worry about it mate.. If you machine the rotors and scuff the pads it may stop for a while.. but in all honesty I wouldn't worry.... unless it's a heavy grinding scary sound.. light noises I wouldn't worry.
