bradc
1 AYC Bar
225/45 and 255/40 will be ok with those rim widths
You cant run different width rims!
Needs to be the same width at all corners but offset can be different.
Still needs to be very close in rolling radius
And as said a million times, you dont need plastic stick on 'flares' to run a 9 +35/+38
255 on a 9 is wak.
Get wheels with the same width, ~-10mm on the rear the keep them even
And as said a million times, you dont need plastic stick on 'flares' to run a 9 +35/+38
True, but the difference is the overall width of the vehicle - the flares add an inch or so, giving you greater flexibility in width and offset. In order to get the same width without the 'stupid plastic flares' you'd need a massive guard roll...
It would look tough, though
my 8 +35 only sits in the rear guard due to camber, and the front sticks out, so you have no chance of a 9" fitting INSIDE the guards.
The only way the "flares" give you greater flexibility of width and offset, is if your car stays at it's factory monster truck height. Once it is lowered, you dont gain any extra clearance of space as the tyres will hit on bumps. Which is why you roll guards.
My 9 +38 sit easily inside the rear guard too.
The front wheels hangs outside the guard by ~5mm. With a roll and very minor flare job, they would sit inward.
If I had the plastic "flares" then I could not run my car at it's current height with these wheels, nor could I roll the guards to get more clearance. Which makes those plastic guards a waste of time.
*puts on flame suit*
Why exactly couldn't you roll the guards? If you can roll the standard guards, you can just remove the flares, roll the guards and then put them back on again...If I had the plastic "flares" then I could not run my car at it's current height with these wheels, nor could I roll the guards to get more clearance.
he's running 235/40R18's like me isn't he?
i just find it odd that a 17x8 +38 (http://ozvr4.com/forums/showpost.php?p=56344&postcount=568) and my 18x8 +35 have pretty much the same outside wheel position, yet a 18x9 +38 seems to sit in the same spot, even though it should sit 10mm further out than mine/13mm out more than the 17x8 + 38.
[TAKEN FROM TEIN's FOR VR-4's THREAD]unfortunately my kit sits smack bang on 100mm at that height, and the rear tyres foul on the rear guards.
i'm not 100% sure joel, as far as i know, they are 18x8 about +30, but if yours are 18x9 +38, that means mine should sit 5mm further in, so i'm not sure!
they are definately only 8" wide though, they didnt come any bigger than 18x8
Flares attach with a series (six, I think) of plastic plugs. They won't come off by just pulling, though - you need to close each of their four teeth and pop them through from the inside.
But yes, I understand that if you lower the car and want the wheels actually inside the guard, then no of course the flares do nothing. But its a pretty good compromise to get the look of flared guards, otherwise mitsi would have had to redesign the wheel arches just for the Series 2 Type S... Hmm, maybe not such a bad idea!
why would you even want to put on a bolt on flare? that would make them look like a bloody torana...
No, they connect THROUGH the guard - there's a series of holes through the side, they don't attach underneath at all. You could roll them and still connect the flares quite happilyMy point is as pointed out here. The "flares" connect underneith the guard, disallowing them to be replaced once the lip is crushed by rolling. Admittedly, I am only speculating as to how they are attached, but that seems most logical. Maybe a small application of silicon along the guard edge for help.